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Thread: Blown BBC help
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    68_Camaro is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Blown BBC help

     



    I'm new to the forum but not new to muscle cars. I raced for years. Everything from Dirt and Asphalt super latemodels to 10 sec street cars. I have always done my own work. Everything from the idea to race day. Here is the problem... I have only built small blocks. Building the motor does not concern me, building a blown big block with the right parts does. So with that being said I would be grateful for any feedback.

    There are several things I know for sure...
    1. Its race only (68 big tire Camaro that hasn't been street legal since 1979)
    2. I currently own a 6-71 with dual 660 holleys.
    3. I will be using Darts big M 10.200 deck. Thinking 572.
    4. I know I should shoot for 8.25:1 to 8.5:1 compression ratio.

    I need the motor to live obviously
    I know the 6-71 is not very big but I couldn't pass up on the deal I got.
    What crank do you guys recommend? Callies, Bryant, Crower? Are these overkill?
    This is not a "no expense spared" race car. I do need to eat.
    Heads, heads gaskets, Pistons, valve train, timing system, wet or dry sump?

    Please keep in mind I don't have bottomless pockets. I currently have a 2010 Camaro with a race weight of 4200 lbs and it runs 10.8's all day long. The current motor is just over 700 hp. To go any faster I need to stuff another $20k in it or start cutting it up. I can't bring myself to cut on this beautiful car. Plus, the cost of 'go fast parts' for this car is outrageous!! For example... my Meziere water pump was just over $900. This is why I bought the 68. Sorry for the long post and thanks for any advice.

    Thanks,
    Shane

  2. #2
    blown55's Avatar
    blown55 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I don't know how cheap you can go and have it stay together depends on the amount of boost you plan to run. To feed a 572 you will have to crank that 671. My 540 using the same block and Dart iron heads flowed to 400 cfm, callies crank, manley rods and valves, JE pistons,jessel valve train, BDS 871 with airloc rotors and manifold, a pair of BG boost referenced 850 carbs came in at just under 28K with machine work. this engine dynoed 1000hp. 865tq on pump gas. It's just a street motor capable of about 3500hp but as I said it's just a street queen I got over breaking parts for other peoples enjoyment years ago lol. This motor has been on the street for about 5 yrs. now and is easy to start and fun to drive except for the 4mpg. I'm sure you can build one cheaper but my motto is "spend it once spend it right" Dennis
    ifurnotblownusuck

  3. #3
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i built some blower engines . the blower is to small .cfm is to small . so i would stay at 9to1 with the 671 blower or abit more is this blower lined ? heads would use the dart 355 or pro 2 darts there many ways to go its all about $$ and HP the crank go comp star have the added key way cut in the crank or use the howards pro max /callies mangnum if its a $$ deal i have no fear using the callies comp star crank . use a scat H beam rod with 2000 arp bolts that were i would start and there are better rods and more $$ . your really not building this the right way with that blower and that CID .there is no need to start that low on Cr less you want to over drive the blower make alot of heat and melt stuff. i would run less crank 4.250 or 4.375 . 10.200 deck is ok but they can be hard to fit i the car less it is in there now ? so i would start as a 496 cid blower engine .blower would work better with a 9.800 deck block with a 4.250 crank the less stroke you can get away with a flat top piston and not to bad on price the 572 may end up a custom dish $$ .dry sump is fine $$ .but no need .head gaskets MLs cometic
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 08-18-2011 at 07:11 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  4. #4
    ojh
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    Is this street or race? What kind of blower? as pat said is it teflon stripped? the 660's will choke the blower. I believe everything Pat says, but a lot of those 'h' beam rods are good for about 500hp so be careful when spec'g the stuff, look at scat and make sure thier rods will live over 800hp. If that is a good quality blower and you can't part with it i'd build an old school 427 tall deck.

  5. #5
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    like said the scat H beam with ARP 2000 bolts are the starting point of a ok rod we used many of the H beams in bbc 800+hps builds fork end of the rod will move some past that HP and RPM under 8000. but some of the better rods move just as much in steel rods the crower billets I beam or oliver rods are the best and you get what you pay for
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 08-18-2011 at 06:38 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  6. #6
    68_Camaro is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by ojh View Post
    Is this street or race? What kind of blower? as pat said is it teflon stripped? the 660's will choke the blower. I believe everything Pat says, but a lot of those 'h' beam rods are good for about 500hp so be careful when spec'g the stuff, look at scat and make sure thier rods will live over 800hp. If that is a good quality blower and you can't part with it i'd build an old school 427 tall deck.
    This is all race. I know very little about blown engines except for the fact... more air needs for fuel. I have decided to build a 540 short deck. The block and heads are on their way. I bought Darts big M and some Brodix 340's. The 540 is not is stone. I'm still doing research. I finally started working on the car this past weekend. The frame is blum but I wouldn't put any real power to it in it's current state. Looks like I will be adding 70 to 100 lbs of steel to it. I'm a little overly cautious when it comes to a safe race car.

    Thanks for all the input.

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