Thread: 496 fouling plugs

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my cam specs are Cam Specs:


Cam Type: Roller
.566 Intake .566 Exhaust
242 Intake / 248 Exhaust duration
@ .050 - 112 degree lobe separation

update:::: took my car down to 5200 ft ran great reset map everything was great after about 15 miles plugs fouled out what the #@### the engine runs so nice but still runs too hotL maybe hotter plug? am a nice guy buttttt@@@#@

What spark plugs are you running???????can you post pics of them???? Are all 8 fouled???????? oily or sooty????????


Your MSD is a multispark ?? 6 or 7?? Does your EFI adjust timing electronilly??????????? if so you possibly need a locked out distributer---


The EFI systems generally adjust timing by retarding the spark curve by computer and so dist needs to be set to some far advanced point so it can be retarded back to what it needs (ECM can only retard timing, not advance it)


What cylinder heads are on the engine???? good oil return to bottom end??(Edelbrock BBC heads have high level before drain back and can ( do ) cause excessive oil flow down valve stems-----------


Can you see into cylinder thru any spark plug holes? any oil on valve stems/drip??


When engine was put together were the rings put on upside down, wrong groove, low tension oil rings????????( low tension oil rings don't work good on street or high altitudes) Stroker engine---does the oil ring cross wrist pin hole?????????? gap on rails correctly done???????Have seen in some other shops and/or owner built engines destroyed oil rings from improper installation with faulty ring compressor techniques----------


I believe 80/20% probability that you have oiling problem and most likely will need to disassemble engine to fix---if all 8 all fouling , points to 90% wrong selection of parts and/or assembly ----------

So Saturday I took my car down to 5100 ft new autolite plugs reset the learn on the ECU went for a drive on the highway didn't get on her just ran between 1500 to 2200 rpms about 10 miles and the car starts to shut off barely get back to the trailer. Pulled a couple of plugs just starting to foul. So much for that idea.

Bob,
After I posted on your thread on the Edelbrock E-Street forum I saw that Mark H, one of the moderators and an Edelbrock EFI Techie, advised on 10/2 that he had your contact information and would be calling you later in the day to discuss your tune. Did that happen? I would urge you to keep the dialog going with those guys, as they've seen a ton of installations, and they worked on the E-street package for over a year of development and programming before it was released to the public.

Also, as a side note for those who may not have taken time to really look at these new "carb replacement" EFI units, the ECU's for them only address the Air/Fuel map and necessary correction curves to deal with changes in barometric pressure, ambient air temperature, coolant temperature, and other variables that can impact fuel delivery. None of them interface with the spark timing, which remains a separate engine criteria that is addressed, in your case, by the HEI ignition system. The ones I looked at did say that they are not suitable for use on an older point style ignition system.

So do you want to answer my questions??????????

The Engine is from Blueprint Engines BP4962CTC plugs are Champion, C59YC NGK, R5672A9, Autolite AR3910
don't know how to pst a pic of them on here. I just figured that there 2 pages. Am sore from horse ridding so am going to call Edelbrock in the morning.

don't know if this well work but 3 deferent plugs sets all with about 6 to 10 miles on them

Bob,
If the plugs are fowling in six to ten miles, what is your coolant temperature at that point? I'm asking because on initial startup your fuel map is biased by a cold start curve which mimics the action of a choke plate on a carburated engine, and then the feedback loop on O2 doesn't really kick in until the coolant temperature is above 175. With EFI you should be running a thermostat to keep your coolant temperature, measured on the engine above 185F to 200F. That much heat is your friend. Just a thought....

Second, not sure what type of fuel pressure system the E-Street uses, but my Pro-Flow has the fuel line to one end of the fuel rails and a vacuum controlled regulator at the exit with return line to the tank. When my regulator diaphragm failed I was fowling plugs like you are. I pulled the vacuum line off of the manifold and sucked on the end and got a teaspoon of raw gasoline in my mouth. A new regulator had it back on track. Could your fuel pressure regulation be holding too much pressure at lower loads?

am running at 195 to 202. I have a Edelbrock return fuel system running at 60 to 62 psi

I was looking at the Edelbrock EFI forum at your posts there---In one response to someone(might have been someone else) the Edelbrock rep wrote that the engine needed to pull a good solid 10 inches of vacume-----------does yours??


Other tuning issues that I have seen numerous times since EFI started getting popular back in late 80s, earlie 90s, are the location and proper installations of the temp sensors---both inlet air and h2o---------a common issue has turned out to be using Teflon tape or putty on the threads of the sensors which keeps them from being properly grounded--now some sensors are not a circuit to ground but many are--difference is if there is only one wire going to sensor it needs a good ground-


And then there is issue of thermostat ratings--------back in the early 80s as we moved toward more smog fighter engines, the operating temps were raised from the old days 160-180 temps to over 190---generally 192/195----------and everything since then has followed this basic---------so do you have a thermostat of 190 or greater??????? HOWEVER, since water boils at a lessor temp at higher altitudes, you will need to run an antifreeze coolant mixture with a pretty robust pressure cap on your radiator-------


Now, for a experiment---------do you have anyway to preheat your engine/cooling system????

I saw that Edel was going to contact you---what did they have to say??????????

Originally Posted by bobsundance

am running at 195 to 202. I have a Edelbrock return fuel system running at 60 to 62 psi

Bob, I did look at the E-Street installation info and their HP fuel supply system kit includes a stand alone bypass regulator, HP in, HP to EFI, return to tank diaphragm operated for load reference. When mine started running super rich suddenly Jeff R pointed me to the regulator, and advised to pull the vacuum line at the regulator and see if it had any raw fuel. An easy check, and an easy fix if that's the culprit....

Hey Bob, I checked with Jeff at Edelbrock and he tells me that the FPR on the E-Street is mechanical, no vacuum connection so that idea is a bust! Sorry, thought it might be easy, but no joy....

I would think it should be a easy fix but I just don't get it. The last test drive she was still running so rich you could smell it and my gas gauge was dropping quit a bit. I wonder if a injector is staying open just strange that I have the same problem with the EFI as I did with a carb, but the carb started doing better as I went down in CFM that's why I say am lost tons of money into this car and I cant drive it.