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Thread: Starting & Tuning up 540BBC with Holley DP 750's and B&M 871 Blower
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    68bbccamaro's Avatar
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    I agree the known fuel leak scares the piss out of me. But without hearing the car run I do not want to hand over the money. A fire extinguisher will be on hand during this.

    Yes the Marvel Mystery Oil is to soak the rings before the initial crank so it is not a dry start. Can this oil foul the plugs up? If so how long should I wait before reinstalling plugs?

    Tested- This can mean so many things to so many people. So I dug into this more. The car was tuned and has been driven approximately 50 miles since the motor was built. Three years ago the owner of the car passed away and the car was put in storage. Two years ago it was fired up for a respected buyer and the buyer did not purchase the car. It has been in storage ever since. I plan to hear the motor run and drive it around the parking lot before the purchase.

    The game plan is to test the motor then haul the car to Junction City, Kansas or Austin, Texas. I am undecided at this moment because I am looking for somebody to rebuild the Carbs in a nearby city.

  2. #17
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    Sounds like a good game plan to me, and I agree that I would want to hear it run, and even drive it unless it's being sold for dimes on dollars, so cheap that anything wrong can be fixed, and still be below the value of the car. Those Holley carbs are not a problem to throw kits into, just basic carb disassembly paying attention to details, and follow directions putting it back together with new gaskets. Any good shop can handle a Holley, unlike having a Quadrajet that needs someone who's walked that path before....

    Are you at Ft Riley outside of Junction City?
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  3. #18
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    those carbs are mounted sideways and easy to change the gaskets on the float bowls and metering plates-take a couple holley sets of blue gaskets /accel pumps with you and change them. If you can't do it , then you probably ought to rethink getting a car with big supercharged carbed engine as you'll be changing jets a lot as weather or you change blower ratios--------


    and a word of caution with a car in storage-I once went to fix a problem a guy had with his bb mopar in his garage, still snow on ground-- the car caught on fire from some ground issues via ss braided hose---------no fire ext, door fixed closed and another non runnable car outside the door so was hard to roll car (on fire) out of the shed---------good thing there was a couple snow shovels-------
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  4. #19
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    If I read this right, you want to test drive the car before plopping down the cash.. is that correct?

    Maybe bring some screwdrivers / nut drivers / wrenches and double check the carb fasteners, perhaps the gaskets have gone dry and shrunk, causing the leaks. It may work enough for a test drive?.?.?

    You'll also need a quart or two (three?) of trans fluid if an automatic. JIC.
    Perhaps a small air compressor in case of soft tires?

    Good Luck, let us know how you make out too!
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  5. #20
    68bbccamaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Are you at Ft Riley outside of Junction City?
    Yes sir I am on Fort Riley Post.

    Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton View Post
    those carbs are mounted sideways and easy to change the gaskets on the float bowls and metering plates-take a couple holley sets of blue gaskets /accel pumps with you and change them. If you can't do it , then you probably ought to rethink getting a car with big supercharged carbed engine as you'll be changing jets a lot as weather or you change blower ratios--------
    It’s not that I can’t do it. Its literally I have never had to do it so I do not know how. Where do I get a set of holley blue gaskets/accel pumps? Any play by play of how to change them? (youtube maybe)

    Quote Originally Posted by 34_40 View Post
    If I read this right, you want to test drive the car before plopping down the cash.. is that correct?

    Maybe bring some screwdrivers / nut drivers / wrenches and double check the carb fasteners, perhaps the gaskets have gone dry and shrunk, causing the leaks. It may work enough for a test drive?.?.?

    You'll also need a quart or two (three?) of trans fluid if an automatic. JIC.
    Perhaps a small air compressor in case of soft tires?

    Good Luck, let us know how you make out too!
    That is correct. I want to test the car before putting the money down. I will bring screw drivers and such. I am away from home at this moment so every tool I need I have to buy. It is the daughter of the car builder who is selling the car.

  6. #21
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    Get one of those cheapie multi sets with ratchet, sockets, pliers, etc.

    Or drop by a pawn shop. The one near my house sells wrenches and such by the pound.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  7. #22
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    You might just be fine. I have had cars that sat in storage 10 years, start up and run fine with just a little lubrication, gas and oil changes. I'd start with seeing how it runs and go from there. I wouldn't stockpile parts until after you buy the car, and decide something is in need of your attention. Just my 2 cents worth.
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    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by stovens View Post
    You might just be fine. I have had cars that sat in storage 10 years, start up and run fine with just a little lubrication, gas and oil changes. I'd start with seeing how it runs and go from there. I wouldn't stockpile parts until after you buy the car, and decide something is in need of your attention. Just my 2 cents worth.
    I have arranged a deal with a fellow coworker today to help him work on his race bike in exchange for some tools. Any specialty tools you can think of I need?

  9. #24
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    I have found out where the leak was coming from. It is the driver side float bowl. So where do I get a gasket for this by tomorrow?


  10. #25
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    Should I also remove valvue cover? That picture was take last week and I can see some rust on a couple of the value cover bolts. Which leads me to believe the car might of had some condensation sitting in the storage unit.

  11. #26
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    Wow, that's a sweet Camaro! I'd definitely change the oil. It's cheap insurance and a lot less time than fixing the engine if there was crud/water in the oil from setting etc. You should be able to get the gasket from any parts store that has a performance parts area. O'rielly's around here stocks them. The rusty bolts may be due to they were just a cheaper zinc coated bolt and the humidity caused them to flash rust. Sitting in a metal box with a metal roof will cause the temps to change rapidly in those storage units and that would cause the rust on those bolts.
    Last edited by 40FordDeluxe; 05-07-2015 at 02:55 PM.
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    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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  12. #27
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    Like 40 FD sais, try a local NAPA or O'reilly's etc. for a carb set, if you get lucky they'll have the bowl gaskets separate.

    If you do have to remove the bowl, watch for the lever that operates the accelerator pump. Look at the arrangement before you remove the bowl, it isn't really complicated, you just need to make sure the lever goes back the way you removed it. Got a phone? Snap a pic if it helps you!!

    And be certain to let us know how you make out!!! We'll all be impatient to learn the results! LMAO!
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  13. #28
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    Well just a quick update. I got the car started and everything seems fine. Will post update later today.
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  14. #29
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    I'm glad to hear you got it and all went fine!
    Ryan
    1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
    1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
    1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
    1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
    Tire Sizes

  15. #30
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    Times 2.. but, where's the pics??

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