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  • 1 Post By techinspector1
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Thread: Next project 454 roller blocks who what when where
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    twolaneblacktop is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Next project 454 roller blocks who what when where

     



    Well the 600HP/600TQ 454 [ retro roller ] is nicely at home in my Nova and will be buttoned up by warm weather. I am now having thoughts for its replacement. I have a 65 Chevy II with a square tube frame and a narrowed 9 inch hanging from coil overs and a four bar. Big meats under the fender wells.
    I intend to use a Checkered Racing front suspension. Now on to the big block. I want to use a BBC 454 roller block, but am completely ignorant of what years to look for, what if any are the best block numbers and etc. I'll use the Brodix heads, and Eagle steel rotating assembly, Arias pistons same as I used in the Nova build. Can you all help me with the roller block info?

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mr. Mustang, please delete. I don't know how I end up with these double posts.

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 02-23-2016 at 06:33 PM.
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  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    I don't pretend to have as much information or expertise as Jerry or others about the current production 454's, but I'm pretty good at cut and paste .....I'd be looking for a Gen VI motor with any of these block casting numbers.....

    10237297...454.......96-up...4-bolt, Vortec 7400", "L-29" Gen.VI
    10237300...502.......96-up...4-bolt, Gen.VI, 4.466" bore
    12561357...454.......96-up...4-bolt, Gen.VI
    12561358...502...............4-bolt, Gen. VI

    Here's an article on a boneyard L-29 that picked up pretty good with just a cam and spring change....500+ dyno ft/lbs ain't no pooch......
    http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...mple-cam-swap/

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 02-23-2016 at 06:40 PM.
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  4. #4
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    If you want a Roller Block, then look for a Gen V (1991-1995) or a Gen VI (1996-present)-the Gen V has a dubious reputation, partially due to the fact that the coolant passages at the top of the cylinder block were revised-the changes to the coolant passage openings meant that installing Mk IV cylinder heads on a Gen 5 block could result in coolant seepage into the lifter valley-not a problem, though, if you are using aftermarket Heads. That problem was rectified with the Gen VI-also, if you are running a clutch, the boss on the block was deleted in a Gen V, but returned in the Gen VI (although it is not drilled and tapped)-

    Of course, both versions offer a one-piece rear main seal, although the Gen V lost the mechanical fuel pump provision (it returned in most Gen VI's), and the Oil passages were moved-all Gen V/VI's are four bolt mains, although the Crank does not interchange with earlier Blocks-I am running an Eagle 4340 crank (4.250), so they are available-

    I bought a new Gen VI 502 Block, and it does have the mechanical fuel pump provision (there are reports that some earlier blocks may not)-I thought I was going to use a factory Roller (there are limitations on Lift-somewhere around .600, and the Lifter prices can be quite a bit more), but when I took it to be built (by a very reputable BBC Builder), his suggestion was to go with a Retro-Roller (which I/we did-Isky, again, partially due to Lift-I am at .680)-

    Another difference is that the Gen V/VI's Coolant passages were designed for parallel flow (the earlier Blocks were Series flow)-although they both work well, the parallel flow offers a more even coolant temperature throughout the engine-

    Both designs offer priority oiling-this feature has two advantages: first, oil from the oil pump goes directly to the main bearings (after being filtered, of course) then on to the lifters and cam bearings; and second, relocating the oil gallery from the driver’s-side oil pan rail (Mark IV location) means there is no chance of breaking into this passage when grinding the block for additional connecting rod clearance (which is generally not needed when using a 4.250" increased stroke), or when fitting the block with splayed-bolt main bearing caps.

    Also, there is a provision for running a Remote Oil Cooler on both Series of Blocks-

    Still, even without the factory Roller, lots of good reasons to use a Gen VI (wish you were closer, as I have a newly magnafluxed Gen VI 454 sitting in my Shop)-

    Here are some more Casting Numbers:

    10114182...454.......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V
    10114183...366T......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V
    10114184...427T......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V
    10134366...454T..............4-bolt, Bowtie, Gen.V, Tall deck
    10185050...454...............4-bolt, Bowtie, Gen.V, Short deck
    10237297...454.......96-up...4-bolt, Vortec 7400", "L-29" Gen.VI
    10237299...427T......96-up...4-bolt, Gen.VI, 7.0L, truck
    10237300...502.......96-up...4-bolt, Gen.VI, 4.466" bore
    12550312...427T......96-up...4-bolt, Gen.VI, 4.250" bore, fuel pump boss, clutch linkage pivot boss
    12550313...454.......91-up...4-bolt, Gen.V crate motor, Gen. VI 4.25" bare block, fuel pump boss
    12561357...454.......96-up...4-bolt, Gen.VI
    12561358...502...............4-bolt, Gen. VI
    14096859...502...............4-bolt, Gen.V, HO
    24502504...454...............4-bolt, Bowtie, Gen.V, Race prep, 9.8 "short" deck height
    24502506...454T..............4-bolt, Bowtie, Gen.V, Race prep, 10.2 "tall" deck height

    hope this helps-
    Last edited by 35WINDOW; 02-24-2016 at 07:38 AM.
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  5. #5
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    I almost forgot-the front Timing Cover and Oil Pan are also different-it looks like you didn't mention if you are running this carb'd or EFI-if you are planning on running EFI, you're in luck- you can use the GM Reluctor Wheel and Sensor (in the Factory composite Timing Cover, or, go this route: EFI Connection, LLC - EFI Connection 24x BBC System


    There are getting to be more Timing Covers available for the Gen VI (it used to be that only IMCO and Milodon offered them), and you can run a double roller with the Milodon (I've included pictures of mine, along with the front cover, and here is a picture with the Eagle crank installed-I used Studded Mains)-don't forget that the Camshaft is different too-it has a stepped nose-
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    Last edited by 35WINDOW; 02-24-2016 at 09:11 AM.
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  6. #6
    twolaneblacktop is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Well I knew I had a lot to learn and you all proved that! I have some time to digest all that you kind folks put down here. The 65 is well done so far and the last thing I want to do is over power it. I am a fair driver but I have never driven a short wheel base car with 750 HP. What I like is to build a strong rotating assembly that will put up with me for several seasons. Then I like to make the car a little faster along the way by the changes I make. I have an 85 IROC SBC outlaw car that I have done that with and it have been an absolute blast. The BBC in my Nova was my first venture into the big block world and I sort of backed into that, but that is another story!
    Thanks for your time guys. I hope to be able to return the favor along the way.

  7. #7
    twolaneblacktop is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    There is a new 24502506 block for sale locally on CL. The photos look good. They are asking $2500 for the block. Can you tell me what you have seen them sell for? Is it worth the extra $$

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by twolaneblacktop View Post
    There is a new 24502506 block for sale locally on CL. The photos look good. They are asking $2500 for the block. Can you tell me what you have seen them sell for? Is it worth the extra $$
    Being a tall deck block, I would think it would be a nightmare to swap into a Chevy Twice, headers to start with. Course, if you're bucks-up, that won't be a problem.

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  9. #9
    35WINDOW's Avatar
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    You could buy a new Dart Big M Block for that!:

    Dart Big M BBC Engine Block Your Choice Small Bore or Larger Bore | eBay

    I bought my new-in-the-crate 502 Block from John Elway Chevrolet (used to be Burt Chevrolet)-they are a Chevrolet "Performance" Dealer-for right at $2000-

    If you are looking for a Gen VI 454 bare Block, you should be able to find one for around $4-600 (I bought the one I have from a Machine Shop for $400)-call around to your local Machine Shops-mine was complete (but I bought it bare), with under 50K on it (still has standard bore)-
    Last edited by 35WINDOW; 02-29-2016 at 07:01 AM.
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  10. #10
    twolaneblacktop is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    What you say about buying a Big M block is true. I think they are looking for one of the folks that highly value numbers matching cars. People who will pay huge sums of money to get the exact original part. That is all well and good if that is what blows up your skirt. I have a good friend that is like that. He has a GTO and a Firebird that sit in the garage and never see the light of day because they might get used or damaged. All the numbers match and no one enjoys them except the owner there in his garage.

  11. #11
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    He's not related to George Montgomery is he?
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  12. #12
    twolaneblacktop is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Well I am back again! I think I just hit the jack pot with your help! I just purchased a 10237297 gen VI block. I believe it is a NOS piece as it came wrapped in plastic with what appears to be something like cosmoline all over it. It is a four bolt main block with out a fuel pump boss. Your thoughts?

  13. #13
    35WINDOW's Avatar
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    Got one in my Shop-IMHO, it's great 454 Block for a street build under 1000 hp, and I've seen them live at 1200+ (Race)-if you were after more horsepower than that, then that Dart Block would be a good choice-

    I think you did well here-build it and enjoy!
    Have you ever noticed that anybody driving slower than you is an idiot, and anyone going faster than you is a maniac?
    -George Carlin

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