Thread: 454 build - what intake and cam ?

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

I would definitely go 2.19"/1.88".
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-45625-8/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mi...make/chevrolet.

Ok so I have finally got most of the new parts needed to get on with building this engine (courier company in USA lost one package containing $1500 worth of parts and refuse to pay)

Im using the valves recommended above, this cam which was recommended 271-139761 | JEGS High Performance

and that cam requires these springs Crane Cams 99896-16 | Buy Crane Cams Dual Valve Springs at JEGS

What should the valve installed height be with this combination of parts ?

Originally Posted by ceejay

What should the valve installed height be with this combination of parts ?

Crane says 1.900". A trial assembly without springs will tell you where you are, then you can use offset keepers, spring seat shims or whatever you need to set the installed height to 1.900". You don't need any fancy tools to find the installed height, just a 6" machinist's scale held onto the spring seat and measured to the bottom of the retainer. It won't matter a hoot if the scale isn't exactly straight up and down. This first offering on Amazon will work great.....
https://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&ke...l_71x2amhyg0_b
1 29/32 nds = 1.90625".....close enough.

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a 1.900 set up is hard to get to with stock valve train parts and you go with a + 050 lock /valve keeper or a +100 retainer. you need to watch for rockers hitting or riding on the valve retainers . icon pistons are very good and use them in many builds at the shop .if you go with a icon and if you go with a 2618 piston they are 1/16 1/16 3/16 i have used much thinner rings under .042 on top ring and have no fear of using them as the make more power less drag but you machine shop better be on there game the thinner rings only come with mahle piston set power pack or other je or custom . use a drop in ring and not a file fit as there is less work on ring fit less your running max piston to bore . when going to a smaller valve stem size 11/32 from 3/8 i aways do this when rebuilding bbc head as bbc most all the time need valve guides valves are not hard to find on line and many to buy from as i deal with all brands .the is PEP .PBM . EPW. Engine Pro . CompetitionProducts will sell you valves i would not wast to much money going any bigger then 2.190 intake and 1.88 ex .as i built them with bigger valve for what your doing may help with HP but just sticking to the same size valves stocke with so bowl work and a good hi flow valve would be a good trade off less valve seats are beat in or heads seen many vavle jobs on then a bigger valve may help if you have a fear your machine shop putting in valve seats . this work take.s skill a valve seat is not what you want to fall out of the head when running . as for Crane at one time they were the one of the best and made and sold very good parts .i use others company now to make my custom cams or buy to buy shelf stocking parts. many cam companys just sell parts not every cam company makes valve springs .lifters . reatainers .rocker arms .cam cores. some even cams so you hope there parts line up is very good there are many companys using one company for rocker arms . srpings and lifters just there name stamp on the box i could tell you who but i not going to post stuff like this on line

Ok I have now got the big valves installed in the heads, the block bored out and have got all the parts with me to do the build.

Can someone please let me know the correct torque settings of the various nuts and bolts for this engine please

Torque specs should be a simple Google search.

Unless you are racing i dont think the intake matters all that much. I read an article in one of the hot rod mags where they did a dyno test on an engine that had around 15-20 different manifolds installed on it. The difference in HP and Torque was so small, less than 5%. It is more important to port match. I attached pics of my Pro Comp air gap style manifold. I had to grind off a lot of metal to match it up with the heads. Well worth the time, not hard to do. Also, I would recommend a roller cam as well, probably a hydraulic if its a street cruiser.

I'm part way through building the engine as advised by all of you on this thread...

I have run into a problem.

I am using a Comp Cams 2 piece timing cover and a new Damper.

I have obtained true TDC and checked it with a dial gauge.

Now when I install the damper and try to install the adjustable timing pointer supplied with the 2 piece timing cover, it does not line up with the mark on the damper.

Even with the pointer adjusted fully, it is still about 2mm away from the line on the damper. Is this a common problem ?

With the mix of parts it's not surprising that your pointer doesn't line up. First, be 100% sure of true TDC and the proper dampener, then you've got a couuple of choices. !) Modify the pointer mount to give more adjustment and line up with the existing notch on the dampener, or 2) Buy a Degree Tape from Summit, Jegs or another for your diameter of dampener, and install it accurately. Either should be golden.

Just curious, are you finding TDC with the head off, measuring direct to #1 piston with a dial indicator?

Are you using positive stop method for finding TDC? or just using a dial indicator to zero out?????

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Are you using positive stop method for finding TDC? or just using a dial indicator to zero out?????

First set the pointer to zero on the big timing wheel by using the positive stop method. Checked it back and forth a few times to make sure it was correct, then checked again with a dial gauge. TDC is correct on the timing wheel.

The supplied timing pointer on the 2 piece timing cover does not line up with the mark on the damper even when adjusted fully to one side.

Originally Posted by ceejay

First set the pointer to zero on the big timing wheel by using the positive stop method. Checked it back and forth a few times to make sure it was correct, then checked again with a dial gauge. TDC is correct on the timing wheel.

The supplied timing pointer on the 2 piece timing cover does not line up with the mark on the damper even when adjusted fully to one side.

Make your own pointer from sheet metal.

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Originally Posted by techinspector1

Make your own pointer from sheet metal.

I'd take a piece of sheet metal, weld it to the base of the pointer and then elongate the holes enough to line it up. A little grinding and a shot of paint and no one will ever know but you.

OK-some have talked about it now but it hasn't been described in detail---please tell us exactly how you did this because I have found this is one of the most misunderstood items of engine building------------POSITIVE STOP TDC

I wrote this several years ago and it has been improved upon by several other members.....
http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center
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Hi folks,

Is it absolutely necessary to use valve stem seals on this build ? (Mark IV 454, Comp cams roller lifters)

The valve guides on my heads were fine when I took the engine apart so although the valves were replaced with big valves, the guides have not been disturbed.

I'm using the double valve springs recommended with the Crane Cams camshaft which I am using and find that there is no space for positive oil seals between the guide and the inner spring.

Will the engine smoke a lot of I don't use seals ?