Thread: 454 30 over not getting faster

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Ok Im new to the drag world but I love it and been dumping money into a 454 BBC. I finally realize my mechanic is an idiot and only knows the basic about engine building. I feel like we are putting the time and money into the wrong places so hopefully you guys can tell me what's wrong here's what I know about the engine and the results I got

2 bolt main 30 over
Srp forged 30 over pistons
Eagle h beam forged rods
Scat cast Steel crank
620 lift on cam w setup
Msd 6la distributor coil and timing control
800 Holley bp
Weiland dual plain intake
Stock oval port heads no work and don't know the casting
Also has nitrous shot on it but I'll get into that
Th400 w 23-28 stall
Exhaust cut outs

Ok 1st pass 1/4 I ran a 12.82 @ 107 373s 125shot 28" street slicks
Now today I ran 12.77 @ 103.7 456s 250shot 31.5" true drag radials.
PLEASE HELP AND TELL ME WHATS WRONG
82 C10 5200 w me n bbc

Originally Posted by Wanaraceme

Ok 1st pass 1/4 I ran a 12.82 @ 107 373s 125shot 28" street slicks
Now today I ran 12.77 @ 103.7 456s 250shot 31.5" true drag radials.
PLEASE HELP AND TELL ME WHATS WRONG
82 C10 5200 w me n bbc

Ambient air temps
track tempts
tire pressures
reaction times
Did you spin down the first 50 feet of the track, or hook up solid and lift the front end accordingly
What about shift points
can't just be tire size and rear gearing in this case

How did you run a tenth of a second quicker in the traps but a 4 mph lower top speed? That is wild. It seems like it may just be what mr mustang said about shift points, I mean if you got off the line slower but accelerated and caught traction faster you would have a higher top speed and slower trap time justifying your tenth of a second, on the other hand if you got off the line with a better launch with traction but missed a shift at some point that would give you a better trap time with a lower top speed. Someone correct me if I am wrong this is just my understanding.

Go to Frank Hawleys school

An E.T. of 12.77 with a 5200 lb. truck means the motor is putting out 493 hp. What's the problem?

.

Originally Posted by mrmustang

Ambient air temps
track tempts
tire pressures
reaction times
Did you spin down the first 50 feet of the track, or hook up solid and lift the front end accordingly
What about shift points
can't just be tire size and rear gearing in this case

Don't know track temp
10psi
Reaction time don't matter because it was Tt and times don't start until tires move
Didn't spin hooked nice
6000 rpm

But I wana know why the whine isn't producing more power I went from 150shot to 250 and w the 31s and gear change I should b going through the traps faster

The problem 12s isn't competitive in my eyes and I wana b low 11s 10sec pick up and I'm willing to do what I got to do to get there

Seems to me 5200 lbs is a lot to ask of any motor. With enough
$$ you can probably get it into the l0s.

But sayin that ain't helping me

Put a set of afr aluminum, heads that match your cam and you will be there , that's were the power comes from

And move up to a 950 Holley or larger..

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go? An old saying that always applies at times like these.

Bring your truck, engine, nitro equipment, gears, tires and lots of money and we will blow right past the 11, 10s and into 9s maybe high 8s!!!!!!

Originally Posted by Wanaraceme

Don't know track temp
10psi
Reaction time don't matter because it was Tt and times don't start until tires move
Didn't spin hooked nice
6000 rpm

But I wana know why the whine isn't producing more power I went from 150shot to 250 and w the 31s and gear change I should b going through the traps faster

If it was my truck, I'd be going back to the original gears and tires, but would leave the larger NOS shot and see how you do in a test and tune night.

Then I'd add the larger tires with the larger NOS shot, gears would be the last thing I'd touch as it will cause the engine/cam to work outside of it's sweet zone.

get rid of weight-----alum heads/manifold, alum radiator, water pump, take out big truck seat ( get a single race seat), fuel tank( replace with a small fuel cell), take out/off airconditioner, power steering, radio, front brakes, lighter wheels/tires, different lighter rear end / springs/shocks, eliminate exhaust system, change window glass to lite weight lexan, if your heavy, get a light weight driver, grill/bumpers, driveshaft--look into if anyone makes fiberglass body parts, fenders/doors

weight your nitrous tank to make sure it has enough for a run ( I used to change 10 lb tanks every two runs and refuel gasoline runs in between runs--- check valve gaps and jetting/plugs every run-record data so you'll know what you did and if it was consistant------make changes A-B-A style

Got a set of dart sr 320s on the way and 680 lift tq cam got a weiland single plane and a 1050 should that do the trick