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  • 1 Post By techinspector1

Thread: Header an starter troubles
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Ken1960 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Header an starter troubles

     



    I bought dougs long tube headers for my 489 that's in my 68 chevelle.. Like to never got them on, had to to take hammer to them so steering arm would work and now they are hitting a frame will it hurt for them to touch. And bought power master starter and it is hitting the block and bendix touching header , but it's working I don't no what to do any body had this problem

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hitting the A-Arm, I'd say it's only a matter of time before the torque movement of the engine & the suspension movement will eat a hole through the header, besides it causing a banging/squeeking noise as you drive. Header on the bendix, there I'd say it's a toss up whether the bendix will eat through the header before the direct transfer heat from the header fries the bendix. Seems to me the solution is to buy one or two mandrel bend J-tubes of the same tube OD as your headers, cut the tubes in the area of interference and re-form them using pieces of the J-tubes, cut & fit to provide clearance.

    That said, the guys at Hot Rod Mag did a piece where they did a baseline dyno run with new headers, then proceeded to beat them unmercifully with a 5# hammer, making dyno runs after each hammer session. Surprising results, and some runs after the beatings were HIGHER output than new - said it was turbulence at the wall, breaking boundary layer friction. If you don't mind the crappy look, you can probably just beat the headers into submission to get the clearance, and never know the difference (as long as no one looks).
    Roger
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  3. #3
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    That said, the guys at Hot Rod Mag did a piece where they did a baseline dyno run with new headers, then proceeded to beat them unmercifully with a 5# hammer, making dyno runs after each hammer session. Surprising results, and some runs after the beatings were HIGHER output than new - said it was turbulence at the wall, breaking boundary layer friction. If you don't mind the crappy look, you can probably just beat the headers into submission to get the clearance, and never know the difference (as long as no one looks).
    Just when you think you've seen and heard everything......

    .
    DA34GUY likes this.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #4
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    cffisher is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    yeah I seen that program they about closed a tube and it got better lol
    Charlie
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  5. #5
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    I saw that video. Peak numbers just got bigger until they really damaged the headers, nearly pinching one off, then the numbers dropped slightly below the start values.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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  6. #6
    Ken1960 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I got her fixed

  7. #7
    Ken1960 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Done a little prying here an there. Now try to match candy paint on my hood that's tuff

  8. #8
    Ken1960 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    What about a abruzzu torgue convertor that is what I used are they good

  9. #9
    Ken1960 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hp is 649 tq 591 and yes 8 inch 3000 stall in 68 chevelle ss 308 gear

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