Thread: 496 street build

Tweet

I am looking to build a 496 with a set of 781 heads that I currently own, not looking to make max hp just looking for decent torque for the street. looking at going with a scat rotating assy and will most likely use a hyd roller cam. Has anyone built one in the past and have some info on what has worked will for you. I am looking for a cam with enough vac for power brakes but still have a nice chop of possible, I have a 69 c10 with turbo 400 trans and 373 gears but have plans to possibly go to 308 for alittle better interstate driving. Thanks

Iron heads will not tolerate a lot of static compression ratio when using pump gas, so most fellows will try to stay around 9.5:1 these days to prevent detonation. This would mean a 124cc chamber and 17cc pop-up on the piston, or 123/18 or 122/19 or 121/20 or 120/21 or 119/22 or 118/23 or 117/24 or 116/25 or whatever to create a 9.6:1 static compression ratio. I would add the crank radius, rod length and piston compression height together and cut the block decks to that figure, for a zero deck. I would then use a Fel-Pro SFL1037 head gasket to produce a 0.039" squish/quench to minimize detonation.

Howards retrofit hydraulic roller camshaft and lifters kit, part number CL120245-10, along with 98636-K32 spring, retainer and lock kit and 93321 seals. Uses 10 degree valve lock angle, must use matching retainers and locks.
1800-5400 rpm operating range
278/284 degrees advertised duration, 225/231 0.050" duration, Hydraulic Intensity 53.
0.567"/0.578" valve lift w/1.7 rockers
110 degrees Lobe Separation Angle
106 degree intake centerline
114 degree exhaust centerline
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl120245-10

Weiand 8019 Stealth intake manifold, Rochester Quadrajet by Cliff Ruggles, 14" X 4" air cleaner so the motor can breathe.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...make/chevrolet
https://cliffshighperformance.com/

Long-tube stainless headers (ebay) with either a H-pipe or X-pipe immediately after the collectors, mufflers and pipes to the rear bumper. Nothing sounds more hinky than pipes terminating under the vehicle and reverberating against the sheet metal underneath.

.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Iron heads will not tolerate a lot of static compression ratio when using pump gas, so most fellows will try to stay around 9.5:1 these days to prevent detonation. This would mean a 124cc chamber and 17cc pop-up on the piston, or 123/18 or 122/19 or 121/20 or 120/21 or 119/22 or 118/23 or 117/24 or 116/25 or whatever to create a 9.6:1 static compression ratio. I would add the crank radius, rod length and piston compression height together and cut the block decks to that figure, for a zero deck. I would then use a Fel-Pro SFL1037 head gasket to produce a 0.039" squish/quench to minimize detonation.

Howards retrofit hydraulic roller camshaft and lifters kit, part number CL120245-10, along with 98636-K32 spring, retainer and lock kit and 93321 seals. Uses 10 degree valve lock angle, must use matching retainers and locks.
1800-5400 rpm operating range
278/284 degrees advertised duration, 225/231 0.050" duration, Hydraulic Intensity 53.
0.567"/0.578" valve lift w/1.7 rockers
110 degrees Lobe Separation Angle
106 degree intake centerline
114 degree exhaust centerline
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-cl120245-10

Weiand 8019 Stealth intake manifold, Rochester Quadrajet by Cliff Ruggles, 14" X 4" air cleaner so the motor can breathe.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...make/chevrolet
https://cliffshighperformance.com/

Long-tube stainless headers (ebay) with either a H-pipe or X-pipe immediately after the collectors, mufflers and pipes to the rear bumper. Nothing sounds more hinky than pipes terminating under the vehicle and reverberating against the sheet metal underneath.

.

Thanks for the reply tech inspector1, I have been reading your advice that you have given to others and was hoping you would share some of your knowledge on my build. Thanks again for your advice.

Originally Posted by Racerdude

I am looking to build a 496 with a set of 781 heads that I currently own, not looking to make max hp just looking for decent torque for the street. looking at going with a scat rotating assy and will most likely use a hyd roller cam. Has anyone built one in the past and have some info on what has worked will for you. I am looking for a cam with enough vac for power brakes but still have a nice chop of possible, I have a 69 c10 with turbo 400 trans and 373 gears but have plans to possibly go to 308 for alittle better interstate driving. Thanks

Sounds like a good setup, adding the information that Richard gave you, should end up with some really nice usable torque for the street. Personally I'd probably be looking for a nice set of aluminum heads, friend of mine score a used set of Edelbrock aluminum heads for his big block. Got a super deal on them, $500.00 for the pair. The used stuff is around this time of year, all the racers and posers are getting ready to update to the latest trick of the month club heads and there seems to be a lot of good used stuff available. Swap meets, Craigslist, and Racing Junk are all good sources to consider. I believe Richard told me once that with aluminum heads, you can increase the compression one full point, and big blocks do like compression!

"I believe Richard told me once that with aluminum heads, you can increase the compression one full point, and big blocks do like compression!"

That is all true Dave, but here was the guiding force in my answer to the OP.....

"not looking to make max hp just looking for decent torque for the street."

I took this to mean best torque at around 3500, that's why I recommended a short cam...….and you need short static compression ratio to support a short cam....

And by the way, the OP would be well advised to procure some equipment and cc the chambers on both heads in order to be able to intelligently choose the piston pop-up displacement.

For a better pop down low in the rpm range, I might enlist the help of a 2300-2500 stall converter. Jim Hughes has been a friend of mine for 30 years and I know him to be a man of honor and integrity, as well as being the owner of Hughes Performance in Phoenix. Ring him up and talk about a converter. You can trust him.
https://hughesperformance.com/

Use manifold vacuum at the distributor and set initial timing at 16 BTDC at the crank. Put 22 in the centrifugal advance, all in by 2800, for a total of 38 degrees. We cannot depend on MSD any longer, as the lifelong owners have retired and sold to an investment group who could care less about product quality. My best advice would be to talk with these guys.....
http://performancedistributors.com/
.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

"I believe Richard told me once that with aluminum heads, you can increase the compression one full point, and big blocks do like compression!"

That is all true Dave, but here was the guiding force in my answer to the OP.....

"not looking to make max hp just looking for decent torque for the street."

I took this to mean best torque at around 3500, that's why I recommended a short cam...….and you need short static compression ratio to support a short cam....

And by the way, the OP would be well advised to procure some equipment and cc the chambers on both heads in order to be able to intelligently choose the piston pop-up displacement.

For a better pop down low in the rpm range, I might enlist the help of a 2300-2500 stall converter. Jim Hughes has been a friend of mine for 30 years and I know him to be a man of honor and integrity, as well as being the owner of Hughes Performance in Phoenix. Ring him up and talk about a converter. You can trust him.
https://hughesperformance.com/

Use manifold vacuum at the distributor and set initial timing at 16 BTDC at the crank. Put 22 in the centrifugal advance, all in by 2800, for a total of 38 degrees. We cannot depend on MSD any longer, as the lifelong owners have retired and sold to an investment group who could care less about product quality. My best advice would be to talk with these guys.....
Performance Distributors - Performance Distributors
.

Thanks for clarifying Richard! I guess the racer in me will always be looking for bigger horse pressure and torque numbers!

I’m getting ready to order the Howard’s cam that was suggested but was wondering how this one compares to it. https://www.howardscams.com/hydrauli...cams-120255-12

Racerdude, That 120255-12 cam would need aluminum heads, more static compression ratio, more torque converter, more rear gear, non-slip posi, more tire, better suspension control, etc., etc., etc.

You don't need a hot rod C10 pick-em-up truck, you need a new 707 hp Dodge Challenger because no amount of aftermarket hot rod parts are going to give you what you really want, tire shredding performance and decent fuel mileage. So, pony up 30 thousand dollars and take a ride down to your local Dodge dealer.
https://www.dodge.com/charger.html?s...MGTA&gclsrc=ds
.