Thread: Thinkin' about blowin my 350, yae or nae?

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So if I went with an OEM aluminum rad., what kinda temp changes should I expect? Also, what make of alu. radiator should I look for? (i.e. year, model, size)

Originally posted by techinspector1
You stated that you get a temp rise between driving and stuck in traffic. That should be your first clue that you're not moving enough air through the radiator at idle. I've been through that trick-of-the-month, double-throwdown, super-keen electric fan horsecrap too many times. Never again. You won't find a better system anywhere than the OEM designs. If you're gettin' a temp rise now with the motor naturally aspirated, how do you think it's gonna react with a lung bolted on it????

the problem you got though tech is the weight, to get that fan on there you've got to use about 4 to 5' spacers and that puts a lot of weight on the water pump. when you get into it, it will pull the bearings out of the water pump. the fan is the way to cool it, but you have to watch your rpms. ive had the water pump brake off of the block. ive had the blower belt come through the hood, it looked like a black snake shooting into the air. to run a blower on the street takes a lot of compromise.

Originally posted by bigazzgunz
HA!!!! Is this Viking from CC? Actually, I ordered my plate last week....."ALL 2 EZ"

Back to the temp prob.....will it run a lot hotter than normal? I sit at about 190 driving and 210 if I get stuck in traffic....

Yeah it's me, they know that scooters are my first love but let me play here some and yes a monica will heat things up thats why I suggested to go bigger and turner it slower, and IMHO I would'nt go over 6-7 lbs of boost on the street, believe me you WILL feel it, aluminum removes heat MUCH better than steel ( took harley a long time to catch on but they did ) so aluminum radiator and heads help lots, I don't hold much for the water additives but thats me, holleys don't seem to do as well on huffers as carters or predators, and of course injection,
................... keep us posted with word and pic, I've seen your work and know it's top shelf, later.

Thanks for the insight fellas....

Originally posted by techinspector1
lt1s10, your point about weight hanging out in the breeze is well taken and as you stated "to run a blower on the street takes a lot of compromise". Still, I wouldn't start a project like this without using an OEM-type system. I was looking through the Radiator Express site 'cause they have a dandy little application software program where you can find the core area of any radiator. Anyway, I see that the 65 Chevy truck has a 25 1/4" x 17 3/8" core for a total of 438 square inches of area. Playing around with their chart, I found a radiator in the '75 and '76 Cadillac fleetwoods that is 32 1/2 x 17 for a total of 552 square inches. That's 20% more area than the Chevy has now and the radiator is about the same height, so the height wouldn't be a problem although you'd have to cut out some of the core support because of the additional length or use a Cadillac core support. Use a stock Cadillac shroud and fan assembly from a boneyard. Autozone has this radiator in a copper/brass construction and it's a 3-core, part number 433451, $209.99. Someone may even make it in aluminum.
http://www.radiatorexpress.com/defau...e=FINDIT_QUICK

you're right about the cooling by it being a pickup, but the el camino was hard to cool anything other than stock. i put that same motor in a 1970 conv. with the same setup i had in the el camino without any problems. i think it'll work just fine in that pickup with the right fan and rad.. talking about a problem though,in the el camino i had a 4 row rad. up front, 3 elec. fans, a 4 row rad. in the bed with 2 elec. fans running and on a 90 degree day it still ran 230-235. it just took it longer to get there. on a 75 degree day it ran 210. i believe if i had taken the finder liners out of the el camino it would have ran cool. one thing you are 100 % on is the elec. fans. i have owned all of them, and they never improved on anything.i bought some stuff one time that replaced the water in the motor that wouldn't boil, and for a while i road around with the temp. stabilizing at 260 degrees. you could take the rad. cap off at 260(you used a 0 pressur cap) and there was no activity in the rad.,on a cool day it would run normal. it didnt seem to heart anything but i didnt like seeing the temp. that high.