Thread: first time builder chevy 350 help!

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My 2 cents worth. I agree with both Tech and Charlie. If the guy will let you hang around the shop what you learn will be priceless and basically free. And as with everything else there are many opinions on tools and many of them on personal preference. My advice would be to buy the best you can afford and good luck on your engine build.

As a neophyte engine builder myself, I read with interest the threaded discussion initiated by Tim. I,too, am in the process of building my first engine. I have acquired a circa 1971 SBC 350 4-bolt. It came with a new 2101 Edlebrock intake and 4106 Carb. Neither has had a drop of gas flowed through them. I was intrigued by the comments of both Techinspector1 and Riverhorse59. I am going to buy "How To Rebuild a SB Chevy" soon. What I would like is to have someone tell me what to get. Most of the articles I read give a range of options-which is all well and good when trying to reach a mass audience of varying abilities- but I just want someone to tell me what to get, and MOST IMPORTANTLY, in what order to do things. I want to build a reliable, strong, moderately powerful engine for some, yet unknown, application.

I am pretty new to this forum so I just found the reply at the bottom of the page.
In response to building a reliable, moderate engine.
I always use a boneyard engine. They have gone through hundreds of heating and cooling cycles. I consider them to be stable. I never cared about 2 bolt vs 4 bolt because I just don't run them that hard. I do put three or more angles on my valves. I do port match intake and exhause. I usually run a .196-.204, or .204-.214 cam. I like Edelbrock manifolds and carbs. I like the performer series with matched filter and basket. I usually clean it up .030 whether it needs it or not, and rarely have gone over .040. I have the heads broached with identical broaching. Usually standard Cloyes chain, stock HEI, and especially stock mainifolds. I have tried headers but I do not like the other issues they bring to the equation.
Mostly, I match machining. If I deck the block, I deck it equally. If I broach the heads, I broach the same amount on each. I like high volume pumps and once the engine is broken in, I like synthetic oils. I like it simple. I use 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipes, with corresponding low resistance mufflers. I like a long reach with the exhaust pipes. I also have the intake manifold machined to match the heads. I like to break in the engine real slowly, with no load, and no high rpm moments. You won't develop a ridge in lifters or cyinders under 10,000 miles and I do not believe beating an engine extends its life. I do use billet rods.
Keep it simple, keep it clean. Break it in with care. I check my plugs at 1000, and 5000 just to see how healthy it is. New pulleys, new dampener, and an easy to read timing index.
Just my way. Stock valve covers also.

Thanks for both of the rapid replies. I'll take all the knowledge I can get.

The biggest thing is what is the target you are building for? Knowing those parameters will help in the research and outcome. Outside from stock, each has a trade off. In a lot of cases, building a blueprinted stock engine can have definate rewards.
Good luck and I hope you learn and get the joy of accomplishment I have gotten from my projects.

My $0.02
No one has mentioned it yet but a very good place for info on parts for your 350 are the manufacturers. Edelbrock, Crane, Comp. All have very knowledgable people in there Tec groups. One thing you need to keep in mind is that you don't just go out a buy a nice looking intake because it looks cool. All the parts have to work together. Start with the block and the twirling stuff down deep and build from there. Remember the manufactures give free advice also. Some of the Tech # are toll free.

My main point was to make sure what is bought matches what you already have.
I agree about the advice from this forum, I would put more faith in this than what the factory says, but (most) factory Teks do know what they are talking about. There are some that sound like they were sweeping the floor yeterday and just know part #'s only. Remindes me of some of the big parts distributors. If you walk in and ask for a fuel pump or some other part if you don't have a model and make they have no idea what to do. The only way they can find a part of know ANYTHING is by punching it up in a CPU. I walked into Pe* *oy's and the guy asked for a model and make and I said a 2004, Craig, and he looked at me like a deer in headlights.
I can walk into NAPA and ask for a part and the guy doesn't even ask about the model or make. He KNOWS what I'm asking for. Good parts people are becomming very rare.

Thanks, Craig. Appreciate the input. I'll give 'em a call.

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