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Thread: cam purchase
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    COONDAWG is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    that much invested buy a degree wheel and put it in without guessing i learned the hard way years ago, not that it broke anything, cam wasnt big enuff but a degree kit from jegs, summit, local perf.center around 100 bucks i used mine about ten times paid for itself on first go round ( by the way the size cam your running the intake centerline is 106 im 99.9% positive put it in tdc strait up) but the best thing to do is degree a cam on installation all cam manufacturers and machine shops would highly recommend this
    IF IT AINT BROKE TRY TO FIX IT ANYWAY

  2. #17
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
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    Thnx Tech that was a great page shows all kinds of good info. Helps me understand a little more of exactly what changes effect what .I tried to browse that site for more info but it would not let me? What do I need other than a degree kit to make this happen?I have a double roller 3 keyway timing chain.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  3. #18
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    A one-inch travel dial indicator with magnetic base and a steel or aluminum rod about five or six inches long and the diameter of the lifter to use as a substitute lifter to dial-indicate off of. Both ends of this substitute lifter need to be squared off nicely in a lathe. You can't indicate off a regular lifter because you'll get an erroneous reading on your indicator when the stem of the indicator moves around in the lifter cup. It needs to be long enough to come up past the block deck if the heads are off. It just makes it so much easier. If the motor is on the stand, you'll need a stout piece of square or rectangular steel bar that will bolt down to the block at 2 head bolt holes and a hole drilled and tapped in the middle of the bar to run a bolt down against the piston crown so you can find TDC. If the heads are on the motor, you'll need a TDC finder like sold by Summit or you can make one from an old spark plug by knocking the porcelain out of it and threading it 3/8" NC, then using a piece of allthread to screw down through it to contact the piston and find TDC.
    http://www.ridgenet.net/~biesiade/camdegree.htm
    http://www.hotrodder.com/kwkride/degree.html
    http://www.cranecams.com/?show=article&id=3

    Finding top dead center:
    http://www.fourwheeler.com/howto/67578/
    http://www.iskycams.com/degreeing.php
    http://www.superchevy-web.com/tech/0105sc_timing/
    Last edited by techinspector1; 04-22-2005 at 01:57 AM.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  4. #19
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thumbs up

     



    Common sence got the best of me and I bought a new cam.int 218 dur @.050,ex224 @.050,.462 lift int.,469 lift ex, 110 lobe sep.I also purchased the rhodes lifters so at idle to 2000 the numbers should be int 208 dur @.050,ex 214 @ .050,lift ,int 440 and ex @449 ., full lift is achieved at approx 3500 rpm. ................Well does this sound a little better ?
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  5. #20
    techinspector1's Avatar
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    That should work out great for you. Good idle with good manifold vacuum for power brakes or other vacuum operated accessories and it should pull hard to about 5,500.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

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