Thread: Camshaft

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When takiong out the Camshaft do i need a certain Tool to take it out ? let me know thanx

No special tools are required, but it helps to thread a long bolt or a long piece of allthread (to give you some leverage) into the snout of the cam so that you can remove it and also install the new one without having the lobes gouge the cam bearings as you slide it in and out. There are commercially available "camshaft installation tools" that do the same thing and are much more spendy than a piece of allthread.

When taking the camshaft out does the Lifters and rods gotta come out first? or can the cam come out first'

Pushrods, then lifters, then the cam. If you plan to re-use the cam, keep the lifters and pushrods in order where they were on the cam. Go to www.summitracing.com and do a search for SUM-9000013 to see an organizer used for this purpose. You can make one at home from a piece of wood with holes of the proper size drilled in it

If you're installing a new cam, always use new lifters and pushrods. Some guys will re-use the old pushrods, but I never do. They're just not that expensive for the peace of mind that I get from the change.

By the way, here's a pretty decent article on degreeing the new cam in....
http://www.automotivearticles.com/De...amshafts.shtml

One additional thought, always, ALWAYS, use lifters, pushrods, valve springs, keepers and retainers from the same manufacturer that ground your cam. Don't try to mix and match parts from different sources when choosing your valvetrain parts.
And use the springs that the cam grinder recommends for the cam. Very, very important.

For breaking in a new flat tappet cam, pre-lube the oil galleys with a tool made for the purpose and turn the motor over manually with a long bar on the crank bolt at least two complete revolutions while priming. Set the timing and prime the carb before you turn the key. The new cam ain't gonna tolerate a whole lot of grindin' on the starter without some splash lube from the crank. Bring the rpm's up to about 2,500 for about 20 minutes, while monitoring oil pressure and water temp. I also use a bottle of GM Engine Oil Supplement in the oil. Get it at any GM dealer at the parts counter. It contains molybdenum disulfide, an extreme pressure lubricant that your cam lobes will like. After 20 minutes, shut it down and change the oil and filter and add another bottle of Supplement. Change oil and filter again at 300 miles. No further oil additives should be necessary. That's how I do it, others' methods will vary.

I think he needs a Pulley Puller . Not Sure with the Name of this Tool but its for the Balancer on the Crankshaft.
After that you can open the Timming Cover and need another tool to remove the Gear on the Crank.

Only if you want to change the Timming Chain
.
I woud do that

k I got the Rocker arms off. Pushrods off. lifters off. Few are Rounded so Cam is defanetly Gone. So im Gonna need a specail Tool to take.the gear thingy Off? i dont have a timing Chain i have a gear drive. is that harder to remove Than a timing chain or Much easier?
i Have never done Mechanical work before with a motor only way to learn and make sure it gets done Right do it yerself

Let me Know Plz

CamaroCanada

Do you have the harmonic damper off yet? If not, you'll need to use a steering wheel puller to get it off because it's a press fit on the crank.

Remove the large bolt that holds the damper secure to the crank. If the bolt is really tight, you may have to have a buddy slide under the car, remove the sheet metal inspection plate at the bottom of the bellhousing and hold a large flat blade screw into the ring gear teeth and wedge it against the block to keep the crank from turning. Turn the large screw on the steering wheel puller all the way out until just the pointed spinner is showing on one side and all the threads and the hex portion of the screw are on the other side. Choose 3 bolts that will thread into the 3 holes in the damper and have enough thread to engage (at least 4 full threads). Find a bolt that is small enough and long enough to stick back into the crank hole so it will be a little shorter than the hole and loose in the hole. This will be the bolt head that your puller screw will push on. Put the 3 bolts through the puller and bolt it to the damper, pulling the puller snug against the damper face. Your pointer end of the puller screw will now push against the bolt in the crank and prevent any damage to the end of the crank. Turn the puller screw and the damper will be pulled slowly off the crank. Everything else behind the timing cover will unbolt and pull out.