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Thread: Camshaft
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    CamaroCanada's Avatar
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    i Just Noticed That Both My header Gaskets Are Gone. But the Driver side Gasket Is shooting Hot air out Like a blow Dryer Why is that?

  2. #17
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    i Just noticed That My Header Gaskets Are both Shot. but i cant see that Being the Problem. the Driver Side is Shooting out air like a blowdryer. probally cuz the gasket is done like dirt. Could it have Something to Do with The valve Springs Under the Heads? maybe i gotta replace them too?

  3. #18
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    Did you put a new cam in an old tired motor?

    If you did that would explain the lack of power...plus for optimum power without adding a stall convertor you should be around a 218@.050 duration max.....I would go 216@.050 with everything else stock....

  4. #19
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    No its Not an OLD MOTOR i rebuilt It 2 years Ago. and i only Drive it in the Summer. i Think it is at .260 .50 .477.480 i was thinking so whats the Problem anyonje Think of my loss of power now?

  5. #20
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    Maybe Its The quad Carb i have On there. im gonna get My holley 650 Fixed. and Throw that on and see what happens.

  6. #21
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    Originally posted by CamaroCanada
    Ok i got Them All adjusted. its Sounds a bit Better. i Think im gonna have to Adjust the the Lobe to 106 to get the Lump i wont. But i just took it for a boot around the Corner. Im still having the Same problem as Before No Power? just Reving Up what could that be? please Let mek now if it aint 1 problem its another.
    You can't change the lobe displacement angle. It's ground into the cam when it's manufactured. Your lack of power is probably due to using a cam that is too large for the compression ratio of the motor. The intake is closing late and not trapping enough of the available cylinder pressure.

    Why don't you slow down and give us all the information on the motor and what you've done. Only then can any of us give you the correct answers you're looking for.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  7. #22
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    I would check all the basics first, like the ignition, when you changed the cam you would have to pull out the distributor and intake manifold. So when you reinstalled the distributor maybe it went back in 1 tooth out or the firing order is 2 wires out on the cap. It's little things like this that need double checking. Couple of things to check while that distributor is out

    1 That the vacume advance is working, the points plate is not seized up or the vacume canister diaphagm is ruptured.

    2 The centrifugal advance shaft that the counterweights sit on is not seized up or the springs missing or broken. to check hold the distributor by the drive gear and grab the advance weights and twist them open and let them snap back, if they do thats fine, if they dont then it's rebuild time for the distributor.

    It's little things like these tat drive car owners and more than a few mechanics bananas chasing "phantom" problems.
    "aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"

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  8. #23
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    Distrub Cam prob

     



    i was Just Thinking That aswell. i Think i need a New Distrubeter Cap. I dont Think its Fireing Up all 8 Cyclinders Cuz everything Was installed the Way it should have Been. Could the Not firing all cylinders is what Fried My last Camshaft? if so i wont fire it no more till i change the Distrub. should i change The whole Top? or Just the Cap? of the Distrub?? or change the Whole Thing? let me know plz? and what ya think would be the Best. probally a MSD LET me know thanx

    CAMAROCANADA!

  9. #24
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    And The CAM isnt to Heavy i Had a 480 in it last time. so i think im down to My distrub and Ignition. everything thing else i did correctly. as you guys Suggested

  10. #25
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    Back to basiics, a 1982 Camaro so it will have the stock factory HEI, as said check the vacume canister and centrifugal advance.
    Ten if you have a multimeter check the resistance in your secondary ignition wires, if the resistance is to high replace them with a good set of packard wire wound resistance wires. As for the cap check for carbon tracking inside the cap and dirty or missing contact terminals. With your multimeter check your primary voltage to the distributor, do this with the ignition turned on take the reading from the ignition wire. Try not to give yourself a good blast while working round that HEI they can punch up to 50KV that should kick you up against a nearby wall

    Last as I think about it and this is a long shot, check your ignition switch, the car is 23 years old now and if that switch is the original then the contacts are worn, so theres resistance and that will lower your voltage to the ignition. The voltage to your distributor should read at least 12. 5 to 12.75 volts with a good battery and the engine off, if not you have located your problem and the ignition switch will be the first place to look.
    "aerodynamics are for people who cant build engines"

    Enzo Ferrari

  11. #26
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    Man Now i Gotta Pull the Front off The Motor Off again. the Friend THAT WAS helping me Was totally Wrong i had a friend Mechanic come By the Dots on THE CAM and crank we off. there were suppose to be facing each Other They were both Top on each wheel so ill update ya all when i pull it apart Tommorw. and do it right!!!

  12. #27
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    either way is fine....

    if both dots are on top....your on #1 TDC

    If bottom dot is on top and the top dot is on the bottom ( facing each other)
    Then your on #6 TDC....

    Just line up the distributor accordingly

  13. #28
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    He is Saying The dots Have to Face Each Other The aint. they are facing in the same Direction. he said the Motor is 180 Degrees of thats why it aint working. and he checked my oil there is gas in the oil. now my oil change is shot too damnit

  14. #29
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    So than dont Take it Apart? Ok when i set This Thing up. i Had bottom Dot on the Top and The top Dot on The top. Which way. should The Distrub Be facing with the Cap off? Towards the #1 Cyclinder?

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