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Thread: Question for the SBC Guru's.
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Walt Zander's Avatar
    Walt Zander is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '36 Miller/Allard Replica,'49 Stude.
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    Question for the SBC Guru's.

     



    Have a SBC 327 with an extra deep, baffled, aluminum crankcase
    cover which has an (UGH) oil leak. To set the scenario-- I have replaced lower gasket set/ front and rear seals twice. First time I had a leak at the rear split seal, minor as it was ( 1-2 drops per 3 day time period) this was not acceptable to this anal geezer.
    My 2nd time replacing gaskets and seals, again a minor leak
    appeared, this time on the front seal. Same procedure was used with both attempts to resolve this dilemma Have had no leaks in the mating surfaces of the pan gaskets (cork) just the seal areas.
    About to forge ahead with 3rd attempt and wish to avoid another
    great accomplishment!
    Now my question - Is there any latest and greatest sealant to apply on the tab ends of the seal after they are inserted and trimmed off?

    Any hints, advice or direction pointing this geezer to a solution would be welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for your time.

  2. #2
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
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    Walt,
    At the risk of being repetitive, have you tried RTV at those intersections? A couple of points regarding the application of the RTV: 1) surfaces should be clean and free of oil, 2) there are multiple types of RTV, usually the black stuff from the auto supply works here, 3) "a little dab will do ya" is still correct, 4) let the RTV skim for a couple of minutes before installing the pan, 5) after you compress the bead, dont relax the compression.....we did some tests here and found that relaxing the compression could cause tiny leaks.

    mike in tucson

  3. #3
    49vetteman's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 60 Vette, 49 Chev Fleetline
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    I had a persistent leak that I couldn't fix regardless of which gasket set I tried (including the one-piece gasket). Finally determined the pan was leaking where the reinforcement tabs had been spot welded on the out ide ends of the pan. I replaced the pan with a standard cork gasket and the problem was solved.

  4. #4
    49vetteman's Avatar
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    I had a persistent leak that I couldn't fix regardless of which gasket set I tried (including the one-piece gasket). Finally determined the pan was leaking where the reinforcement tabs had been spot welded on the out side ends of the pan. I replaced the pan with a standard cork gasket and the problem was solved.

  5. #5
    Walt Zander's Avatar
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    RTV Black Stuff

     



    Mike. Off to the Auto Supply for some Bryl Creme "little dab will do ya." Being a cue ball myself - don't even need a dab.
    Thanks Mike
    If sucess is not achieved, maybe stock in Fel Pro is my option.

  6. #6
    s10streeter's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1986 S-10 SBC
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    I would go with Mikes advise. I had great luck with the black RTV. As long as you dont use too much and keep your patience.

  7. #7
    Walt Zander's Avatar
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    I guess that settles it - Black RTV, don't relax compression, and patience!
    Thanks guys. I'm on a mission.

  8. #8
    spika's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Studebaker M15
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    My two bits to this discussion...
    I once ran into an extremely frustrating leak from the timing cover of a SBC. On and off, each time removing the entire cooling system and belt driven components. Couldn't ever see exactly where it was leaking from; but assumed it was the danged thick seal between the timing cover and the front of the pan. After about 3 attempts, I mentioned it to one of the local mechanic/machinists. He too, had had similar experiences before, when installing an aftermarket "cheap" chromed timing cover. After fighting the continuous drip, he mic'd out the dimensions of the hole in the cover, and found it to be several thousandths out of place...it was the seal around the crank leaking, not the gasket after all!!! When the cover was bolted into place, the seal was "over-seated" on one side of the crank, and not seating at all on the other. Taking his advise, I ditched the cheap chrome and went back to the original GM cover, and my leak went away. Seems as though the tolerences were far from accurate from the off-shore manufacturer who sold under several different name brands back here in the states. Guess you get what ya pay for. The money saved by not buying an original chromed GM cover in the first place was used up several times in multiple disassemblies to try to stop the danged leak. Education seldom comes cheap...
    tjs

  9. #9
    Walt Zander's Avatar
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    Guilty/ Chrome Cover!

     



    Spika--two bits always welcome.
    Do not recall if cover is original GM or import, but will
    investigate for sure. Cannot aford any more hair pulling out
    ventures.
    Thanks for info.

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