Thread: Plug Wires and routing

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I just installed a new HEI tach drive distributor in my 64' and would like your input as to what would be the best choice for plug wires. I am using the stock 3" cast iron exhaust manifolds and don't use the stock ignition shielding-in fact don't need it now with the HEI. Basically think of this engine as a 350 cu in with HEI. I bought a set of wires that was designed to fit the 80 somthing 454.cu in. They seem a little long to me. Any better choice? Also, I have never mastered the art of routing wires. Any assistance?

Well, it's probably a good thing that they are a little long rather than being too short . Gather up cylinders 2,4,6 and 8 and run 'em down the back of the motor on the passenger's side and connect to the plugs from underneath. Try to keep 'em separated by at least 1" to prevent induction mis-fire. You may have to make up some non-metallic separators to accomplish this. Gather up cylinders 1,3,5 and 7 and run 'em down the back to the driver's side.
Again, some well-engineered non-metallic standoffs will prevent contact with the manifolds.

Use the longest wires for cylinders 1 and 2, the next longest for cylinders 3 and 4, and so forth.

I used the original Chevy outrigger type plug wire looms. They bolt on the ledges behind the heads. If you look at the rear of the block on that ledge on each side, you'll find an unthreaded hole and a threaded one nearby. That's where the outriggers bolt on.

The two rear plugs on both sides are pretty straight forward as far as routing.

The front two on each side run between the exhaust manifold and the block. You can buy the small two-wire looms that are held in place with one of the pan bolts (each side). The front wires are then routed through the engine mount to 1-3 and 2-4, respectively. You may have to lift the engine off the lower mounts to do this.

Long is good.

Ok. I spent part of the day yesterday rerouting and playing around with the plug wires and routing. It looks a whole lot better now. I bought some el cheapo plastic separators and with the stand up off the valve cover looms it seems to be working ok now.

The car has been sitting for 6 yrs (disgusting I know) but I just haven't had the money to mess with it since the dot com bust, then wife lost her job, then two kids in college at the same time- you get the picture.

I took it around the block this morning and it quit on me. It wouldn't idle. Just rebuilt the holley 600 cfm carb yesterday. I guess I had the idle screw adjusted wrong. POS holley carbs! I need to buy an edelbrock performer for it. The brake system was low on fluid too. I don't get that one.

Please tell me that you didn't route the wires over the exhausts.

Nope. I may be dumb but not stupid. They kind of wrap around from the rear of the engine and come up from the bottom. There is a good 8" between the wires and the manifolds.

Next weekend I'll flush the brake system with alcohol and put in some fresh brake fluid.

Don't put anything in the brake system but brake fluid. just pump some through to clean the lines, then bleed.
The fluid went away over the years because the residual pressure went, and the cups relaxed, letting the fluid seep out.

I had heard somewhere in the past to flush the system with alcohol to remove any moisture. I guess that is bad information. I'll use the brake fluid like you suggest, its easier to do it that way anyway.