Thread: 327 mods

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i just noticed this post but friend has 68 327, roller cam, 461 heads with 2 05 1.6 valves (expensive to do on iron heads) holley 750 double pumper, all msd ignition which i would recommend, headers, good rear end 4 10 gears, turbo 350, 3500 stall, edelbrock victor jr intake, motor runs real strong, all street car and eats almost any car around, revs to an easy 7000 rpms 327s are known for that, i would recommend bigger valved heads but those are just some options he has done, in 86 monte carlo and motor flies, good choice with the 327. ask for that streets guy, blower sounds great but dents the wallet, and from what i read i wont say anything bad cause he knows way more than i do, good luck.

Wow, 1.72 and 1.50 sized valves huh. That would certainly explain the stump pulling torque off the line. Oh well, looks like I'd better do some shopping hey. Mind you, it still really scoots along as the body's quite light as it was mainly designed for 6cyl applications, with the v8 being called upon for the prestige and performance models. If I can get my hands on a decent set of heads then i'd be in business. What compression ratio does 70cc chambers give with stock pistons? 9:1? I've yet to hear any detonation and am using lead replacement super petrol (gasoline, benzina, whatever) which has an octane rating of 98RON. What fuel are you guys forced to use these days? Do you still have lead additives in your super fuel? What compression is ok for street use. From what I've read, 9.5:1 to 10:1 seems to be the safe limit before octane booster is used. Streets - I too have noticed that you've past the 1000 post milestone. I reckon a gold watch is in order. Anyway, I hope things improve for you. Again, thanks to all for your help. This post will keep on going until I've had my fill so get used to it!

Ya know Rob, you're getting to be almost as much of a trouble maker as Brisco!!

To completely deal with the octane thing would probably take another one of those two part posts (each post is limited to 10,000 characters). You snuck in the RON on your 98 there, which is a term not often used in this country. It stands for Research Octane Number, and is a meaningful qualifier, but only if understood by the reader. Which in this country is not very common. We have a rating number on our pumps that is an average of two rating methods, the Research number as above, and what's referred to as Motor Octane Number (MON). If you were to look at the sticker on a pump here there would be a formula in tiny print at the bottom that shows R + M/2. Meaning, Research Octane Number plus Motor Octane Number divided by 2 = the average of the two tests. The RON and MON are two tests run on the same sample of fuel, the MON being the more severe and yeilding a smaller number. The typical spread between the two is 8-10. So a 93 rated fuel at our pumps would be a 97-98 RON fuel. We had a lot of understanding issues, particularly in the mid '70's to early '80's, because the vehicle manufacturers were using the engineering approach in their owner manuals and specifying the RON level numbers, but the stations were required by Federal law to post the R+M/2, which, as you can see, is a lower number. Poor consumers were going nuts, at least the few that read the manual, and of course the oil companies were blamed. (Government dodged the bullet again). In time the manufacturers revised their manuals bringing peace and harmony across the land!

Your 98 RON is way more octane than the 8.6 to 1 that Richard calculated requires. You probably wouldn't have any ping with a 93 RON fuel, or whatever your "Regular" grade is. As for your lead question, no, all our "street" fuels are unleaded now. A few brands of racing gasoline still have lead, but there are also unleaded, high octane, racing gasolines out there. In most cases the engine doesn't care if there's lead in there or not. Many folks here, and perhaps there, fear exhaust valve recession (if they're rational), and some fear total annilation of their engine (if they're irrational) if they use unleaded fuel. While exhaust valve recession is a POSSIBILITY with the use of pre-'72 cylinder heads (this country, I don't know about yours), it usually only occurs in severe use e.g. racing, trailer towing, or any other regime that causes high, sustained, cylinder head temps.

And BTW, I don't wear a watch, so just send the money!

Bob, if you like, you can ignore me, but I won't go away (trouble maker?). He he! Give me your postal address so I can send you a check to the value of one gold watch - which happens to be worth $427.55 Aus. That's $2.75 when converted to US currency! Better get me that address before I change my mind.. Rob

Now I want slightly different help. I've seen those under header ignition wires (refered to as high tension leads over here) and want to get them for my ute. I love the clean engine look and hate the sight of any kind of excessive wiring. I've looked at summit racing and jegs, etc. They are very limited in that line of stock. But there real question is, what clips and brackets (kit?) are available to have the wires kept firmly in place away from the hot manifolds. Would still be with those sexy rams horns (woof woof). Hey Bobby Dazzler, where've you've been lately huh? I'm about to start cleaning up the wiring under the dash of my pick up. It's a real mess and is a fireball waiting to happen. I've just secured the battery + cable loom away from the manifolds - found the several layers of insulation had melted through as the loom was hard against the manifolds in 2 locations . Also had to rewire the burnt starter solanoid wire and temp sender wire for the same reason. Looks like a lot of people can throw expensive parts together to make a cool street machine. But time and time again I've seen real ugly and nasty wiring jobs that are just a nightmare to figure out. Being able to do good electrical work is often what seperates the men from the boys. Do you have any ideas on those ignition wires Streets?

Rob, gotta dig in the memory bag here, but I seem to recall some of the early '60's Chevs, might have been Corvettes, routed the wires down the back side of the heads and then under to come up below the plugs. You could easily fashion the wires from a cut to length kit, just make sure you have a proper crimper. For the brackets, you might check with Year One, or one of the other Chev "restoration" part suppliers, they may be repopping the brackets that, I think, fastened to bell housing bolts. Once you look at it you should be able to visualize the routing. As for clamping the rest of the wire, I've used some of those nice plastic ones from Mallory for 2,3,&4 wires, Mr. Gasket makes some too, but somewhat lower quality. I've taken some scrap sheetmetal and cut some brackets of my own and fastened them to the clamps using the through screw that holds the clamp/separator together.

I hear ya' on the under dash wiring. A few years ago I had a '40 Ford deluxe coupe that some hack had wired. When I finally got tired of it I pulled the dash one day, and started cuttin'. The clown had used good wire, and the fuse panel wasn't too bad, it's just that he left too much wire there, and just wadded it in. After some judicious shortening, reterminaling, and routing it turned out very neat. Really only took about four hours, but some folks just don't have the patience I guess.