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Thread: basic buildup info needed please
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    SpooledupRacing's Avatar
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    THAK YOU for that welth of knowledge...

    btw I picked the block up last night.. looks nice I just need to pull the cam out of it and get her on the stand ... however it looks like I will have to bore .030 over so I can get the pistons in.. the only ones JE or Weisco have are .030 and they will knock comp doewn to 8:1 if I use 72cc heads

    Dave

  2. #47
    rumrumm's Avatar
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3W Coupe, 383 sbc
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    There is a good chance your block will have to be bored anyway. BTW, a lot of machinists want you to provide a piston so they will be able to hone the cylinder to the proper clearances. In addition, it is a good idea to have the block sonic tested for cracks, align bored and decked to zero so you can achieve proper quench. Do you have a good, reliable machine shop lined up?


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

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  3. #48
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    yes I do.. I plan to get the pistons then send it in to get all done.. bore clean up new freeze plugs etc..

    now will I need a balance job or not on the 350's

    Dave

  4. #49
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    Absolutely, get the rotating assembly balanced. That's a critical part of building a good engine. If you buy your crank, rods, and pistons as a rotating assembly kit, you can order it balanced for a small extra charge. If not, have your machine shop do it.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  5. #50
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    now wont I need the flywheel as well to be balanced or not.. cause I plan to do a 4-5 spd manual trans...

    or do I just need the bolts, timing set, crank, rods, pistons, bearings, cam, crank pulley

    or in otherwards WHAT ALL do I need so I can get the engien balanced.. cause this has to be done before assembly correct

    Dave

  6. #51
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    On an internally balanced motor, the damper, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate can be balanced separately from the rotating assembly.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  7. #52
    SpooledupRacing's Avatar
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    ok so unless I am wrong this means I only need to have the crank, rods, pistons, maina nd rod bolts, and bearings balanced right... or do I need the timing kit and the cam balanced too?

    Dave

  8. #53
    rumrumm's Avatar
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    Only the rotating assembly--crank, connecting rods, and pistons. That way, the crankshaft itself is balanced and it is turning the same weight for each cylinder. I should be balanced within one gram for a high performance engine, and it should be balanced as close to zero as possible for a race engine--usually within 1/4-1/2 gram is considered acceptable for the extreme applications. You don't balance bearing as they do not move.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  9. #54
    SpooledupRacing's Avatar
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    and I dont have to balance the cam or timing set (chain and gears)?

  10. #55
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    also when I buy the rods I want bushed rods right not pressed??


    **nevermind I looked back and read the answer to this question already**


    Dave
    Last edited by SpooledupRacing; 09-15-2005 at 01:06 PM.

  11. #56
    rumrumm's Avatar
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    You do not have to balance the cam, timing sprockets or chain. If you are going to run a manual transmission, you might want to inquire about the need to balance the flywheel and pressure plate. I have not heard of this before, but I run an automatic and don't deal with manual transmissions so I have to admit my ignorance about this. BTW, have you thought about a tranny that will take the kind of hp and torque you are going to produce? You might pose that question to the guys on the performance forum at www.chevytalk.com . There is a lot of expertise available there.


    Lynn
    '32 3W

    There's no 12 step program for stupid!

    http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson

  12. #57
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    well I just like a manual but a nice auto could work

  13. #58
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    well I boght the H beams today for 300.00 (set) and the eagle crank for 144.00 so I just need to grab the SLP JE pistons for 430.00 and some rings and then the harmonic balncer and flex plate then I can get the block machined and balanced


    Dave

  14. #59
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    Originally posted by SpooledupRacing
    I have my own parts business and I get direct pricing with lots of suppliers including turbo suppliers.. the turbos wont cost me anymorethen 300 or so each.. thats new/rebuild items..

    the cost will be in the custom headers.. as for intercoolers I get them at a low cost too..

    thx for the answers to the rest of my questions.. im not insulted at all... but I do have an idea and wont bend this is something me and my wife REALLY want to do all I am asking for is a nice group of guy like yourselfs to lend yoru mind to help me with figuring this stuff out and getting my project to life

    thx agian guys I like this place alot!!


    Dave
    If you can buy these turbo's for $ 300 new each I would like to order about 10 of these.

  15. #60
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    lol... I cant get my hands on that many at one time.. besides mine first lol

    it depends on the trim and exact wheel as well.. but they range between 300-500 a turbo usually NEW


    Dave

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