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09-15-2005 04:32 AM #46
THAK YOU for that welth of knowledge...
btw I picked the block up last night.. looks nice I just need to pull the cam out of it and get her on the stand ... however it looks like I will have to bore .030 over so I can get the pistons in.. the only ones JE or Weisco have are .030 and they will knock comp doewn to 8:1 if I use 72cc heads
Dave
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09-15-2005 07:13 AM #47
There is a good chance your block will have to be bored anyway. BTW, a lot of machinists want you to provide a piston so they will be able to hone the cylinder to the proper clearances. In addition, it is a good idea to have the block sonic tested for cracks, align bored and decked to zero so you can achieve proper quench. Do you have a good, reliable machine shop lined up?
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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09-15-2005 09:01 AM #48
yes I do.. I plan to get the pistons then send it in to get all done.. bore clean up new freeze plugs etc..
now will I need a balance job or not on the 350's
Dave
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09-15-2005 09:43 AM #49
Absolutely, get the rotating assembly balanced. That's a critical part of building a good engine. If you buy your crank, rods, and pistons as a rotating assembly kit, you can order it balanced for a small extra charge. If not, have your machine shop do it.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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09-15-2005 10:43 AM #50
now wont I need the flywheel as well to be balanced or not.. cause I plan to do a 4-5 spd manual trans...
or do I just need the bolts, timing set, crank, rods, pistons, bearings, cam, crank pulley
or in otherwards WHAT ALL do I need so I can get the engien balanced.. cause this has to be done before assembly correct
Dave
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09-15-2005 11:51 AM #51
On an internally balanced motor, the damper, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate can be balanced separately from the rotating assembly.PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.
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09-15-2005 12:30 PM #52
ok so unless I am wrong this means I only need to have the crank, rods, pistons, maina nd rod bolts, and bearings balanced right... or do I need the timing kit and the cam balanced too?
Dave
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09-15-2005 12:55 PM #53
Only the rotating assembly--crank, connecting rods, and pistons. That way, the crankshaft itself is balanced and it is turning the same weight for each cylinder. I should be balanced within one gram for a high performance engine, and it should be balanced as close to zero as possible for a race engine--usually within 1/4-1/2 gram is considered acceptable for the extreme applications. You don't balance bearing as they do not move.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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09-15-2005 12:59 PM #54
and I dont have to balance the cam or timing set (chain and gears)?
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09-15-2005 01:03 PM #55
also when I buy the rods I want bushed rods right not pressed??
**nevermind I looked back and read the answer to this question already**
DaveLast edited by SpooledupRacing; 09-15-2005 at 01:06 PM.
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09-15-2005 01:55 PM #56
You do not have to balance the cam, timing sprockets or chain. If you are going to run a manual transmission, you might want to inquire about the need to balance the flywheel and pressure plate. I have not heard of this before, but I run an automatic and don't deal with manual transmissions so I have to admit my ignorance about this. BTW, have you thought about a tranny that will take the kind of hp and torque you are going to produce? You might pose that question to the guys on the performance forum at www.chevytalk.com . There is a lot of expertise available there.
Lynn
'32 3W
There's no 12 step program for stupid!
http://photo.net/photos/Lynn%20Johanson
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09-15-2005 02:05 PM #57
well I just like a manual but a nice auto could work
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09-16-2005 07:31 PM #58
well I boght the H beams today for 300.00 (set) and the eagle crank for 144.00 so I just need to grab the SLP JE pistons for 430.00 and some rings and then the harmonic balncer and flex plate then I can get the block machined and balanced
Dave
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09-17-2005 08:56 PM #59
Originally posted by SpooledupRacing
I have my own parts business and I get direct pricing with lots of suppliers including turbo suppliers.. the turbos wont cost me anymorethen 300 or so each.. thats new/rebuild items..
the cost will be in the custom headers.. as for intercoolers I get them at a low cost too..
thx for the answers to the rest of my questions.. im not insulted at all... but I do have an idea and wont bend this is something me and my wife REALLY want to do all I am asking for is a nice group of guy like yourselfs to lend yoru mind to help me with figuring this stuff out and getting my project to life
thx agian guys I like this place alot!!
Dave
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09-17-2005 09:02 PM #60
lol... I cant get my hands on that many at one time.. besides mine first lol
it depends on the trim and exact wheel as well.. but they range between 300-500 a turbo usually NEW
Dave
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