Thread: basic buildup info needed please

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ok well I finally get my 350 4bolt tomorrow.. it is a bare block from a 2002 van.. and my idea with this motor is either to build a twin turbo setup or a Roots supercharger motor..

I will obviously be starting from block up so my first step after gettign the block is to hone out the cylinders (suposidly the motor has like 15,000 miles on it and it was pulled due to a bolt being dropped in the motor and they pulled it and warantied it (shop truck, never started after the bolt was lost)

anywho I figure since the cylinders are nice I would hone the block (just to clean it up) then move onot the crank, bearings, rods and pistons.. or am I forgeting something first??

since I want to run a boosted motor what crank rods and pistons do u guys recomend.. I obviously will need deep dished pistons (for lowering compression) but I dont know what I shoudl look for in a crank and rods... what brank, forged or not, what specs etc..

I am a once beloved ricer turbo guy and now I have turned over to the dark side lol

I just want to do it right and have fun with it..

any and all info u can give me would be MORE then appreciated..

thx in advance

Dave

You aren't getting much input to your question, probably all us old timers are not sure about the newer block. Most of us are used to the earlier blocks and so we're not sure what to recommend. Generally speaking, for a blower motor, you'd want to use a steel crank, good quality forged rods and forged pistons to give a 8.0:1 static compression ratio if you plan to crank up the boost and buzz the motor. If you're just looking to blow 6 psi or less into the motor, cast pieces will work just fine. A moderate cam ground on 112 degree centers will work well.

ok I want to be able to zing the motor so the forged stuff is what I planned to use.. whats the big diff between the old blocks and new blocks???

I thought a 4bolt 350 blokc was a 4 bolt 350 block and has been for the last umpteen years.. what has changed??

also do u recomend any certian brands...

when I buy the crank, rods and pistons.. will they be sold as those pieces to give that compression..

I guess I mean I dont want a stock crank right I will need a lower compression STEEL crank.. or does the crank not determine the compression??

Dave

There all basicly the same but, they changed for 1996, that is why some parts list 1955-1995 as the years that part will work with. There were changes for '87-'95 also but that was basicly the addition of centerbolt valve covers. Also, possibly no provisions for a mechanicle fuel pump on the newer blocks.

as of now just worried about the short block build up

as for crank

for instance I am looking at Eagle cranks

here is what it says

.092 Radii on rod, main journals, rear seal, and snout for increased strength.

rated for 500hp
stroke 3.480"
bob weight 1870
rod length 5.7

then yoru choice is:
2 piece rear seal internal balance
OR
1 piece rear seal external balance

will that crank work for what I want to do.. and which one do u recomend for the seal and balance

Dave

Oh and the crank determines the stroke, the block deck hight, piston cc and the head cc determine the compression ratio.

that is a standard 350 crank except it is heavy duty forged for high horsepower. I think all newer blocks are 2 peice rear main seal. That crank is good for 500 HP, what more do you need.

so that crank can be used if I am goign to get pistons and rods to lower the compression and run a boosted engine??

if so I am buying it lol

Dave

the rods don't lower the compression, pistions and the heads have cc values, the lower cc values on each will give you a higher comp ratio, as there is less area for the " bang " to go. I think techinspector1 might be able to give you the exzact cc of the parts you need to make 8:1. he has a nice write up on how to figure them out also. I'm sketchy at figuring them out.

ok so this crank will work thought for what I want???

yep

looks like I will be buying that one then... btw I think it is a steel crank not forged

Dave

that is still good, long as it has the good hp rating. there all steel, just a question weather it is a cast peice, of forged.

cool I will prolly order that up tomororw along wiht Clevitte main bearings..

now as for rods.. what all do I need to know about picking a good rod then for my application... I mean I know I need forged but what specs shoudl I be lookign for... and shoudl I wait on the rod bearings untill I buy the rods or will that not matter...

Dave

buy the bearings after you are shure what to get. just get a good set of I beam or H beam rods, not summit brand. Eagle is a good brand, they have a set of 5.7" I beam rods that say they will handle 500 horses.