Thread: engine swap (350, 383, or 400?)

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2-bolt main 400 block is stronger than a 4-bolt main block

i was just correcting u so u wouldnt steer this new rod builder wrong.

Originally posted by Ross
i was just correcting u so u wouldnt steer this new rod builder wrong.

I understand what you are doing.I just did not want him to waste his time or money looking for a 4- bolt block.When it is his daily driver.

ok thats understandable then.

4 bolt block sell thats why. the block is the same . just more holes in the main web . when i think hi hp and rpm i like more hole in the main web ?? this part of the gm block works but is a bit on the thin side the 383 is a good way to go and can be built very cheap cast steel crank. and hiper pistons and stock recon 5.7 rods . most 400 are junk try to find a good one .good luck you can find 350 all over and they are cheap a 400 bores move. they run hot .you can not bore them much.030 i have seen the cam bearings not fit. small rods and i never one seen last to long moveing LC to make it run cooler?? run less CR? what the hell why not run a four cylinder? i am all for big cubes but the 400 was not the best of gm engines the last one i seen sold for $450 and i do not if it was good core.that a lot for somthing that is junk?? good low rpm engine good truck . but a big block is much better engine.i f you want big cubes in a small package buy the dart or world block much better than buying GM junk blocks. 383 you will do some cutting on the block and nip the rod bolts and a small base cam helps to

Erick....

I understand the shorter runner in the center will cause the inner cylinders to run rich....but running rich on the street in those cylinders will actually cool the charge and effectively cool the cylinder....It's only with high compression and racing gas together running rich can cause more heat......

In some instances a 2 bolt main block is stronger than it's 4 bolt counterpart and sometimes it is not....

If you have a 2bolt block and want to make it "For Sure" stronger ask your machinist to "Pin The Caps" it can be done several ways. With dowel pins and will locate the caps in a positive fashion... I use big block chevy head alignment dowels and cut the main cap bolt hole to accept these and the caps to match....press them in the block and install the caps and line-hone the mains......they won't move....

The purpose of stronger mains is to keep the caps from walking under load....this does NOT become and issue untill about 6500rpm....if you'll be seeing upwards of this the stronger mains wouldn't be a bad idea....

I have three novas 1 has a 327 1 has a 350 and 1 has a 400.
The 327 and 350 have never seen the front of my 400 sbc car.
Build the 400 not over .40 over and put a good cooling system on it. Cu=HP

go with the 383 stoker lots of power at a decent price or a 350 is a good choice too they also have plenty of bang for you buck

Here is a 383 fresh in the crate!
http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...72-P764C0.aspx