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Thread: Cough splutter wont run
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    simso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Cough splutter wont run

     



    HEy guys,
    Just fitted a set of pro topline heads crow cam and roller rockers to my 327, everything went in fine, I double checked everything as I built it, but now thats shes together she dont want to run, itll start with great reluctance when I get it going it sounds like the dizzy is 180 out theres no acceleration and as soon as you take your foot of the throttle she backfires and dies, I rechecked the dizzy positon and its fine I did it the old fashioned way cranked with finger in no1 and waited until I got some pressure felt and then rechecked the dizzzy that was ok, anyone got any ideas
    Thanks steve

  2. #2
    camaro_fever68's Avatar
    camaro_fever68 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 68 Camaro 69 Chevelle 78 Chevy Luv
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    Well, I think.... it sounds like a timing problem. Best I can say without being there is grab your dizzie while holding it about 2500 rpms and ease both ways till the engine levels out good. And put a light on it. Do you have enough carb. solid or hydraulic cam and is it set up right preload/clearance, did you check coil bind, did the cam break in without wiping a lobe. Do you have fuel pressure, check your plug wires for firing order. 18436572, all odd on one side even on the other side. (Don't laugh, I have seen people wire like a F**d.) Make sure carb. is flooding out also
    RAY

    '69 Chevelle--385
    '68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
    '78 Luv--383

  3. #3
    simso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Love to get it to 1000rpm it barely runs, I can just start it with great reluctance nd hold the pedal to the floor and it runs at about 300rpm as soon as I take my foot of she dies and backfires. Its getting fuel thats not a problem, Im tempted to pull the thing down again and start rechecking from scratch starting with my timing chain cam crank marks even though I double checked them prior to closing it up. Compression didnt feel very good when I had my finger on number one as well
    Im stuck
    Steve

  4. #4
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If it runs at all the dist. isn't 180 out. Sounds like its retarded a whole bunch, or a vacuum leak. Move the wires one tower counterclockwise to get more advance and try it again.

  5. #5
    halftanked is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 ford
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    Hi again, are you sure you don't have a few of those valves too tight? That would cause all the grief you are experiencing. A bad condensor with point type ignition can give similar problems. Hank

  6. #6
    simso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks for all the info guys, got to the bottom of the troubles firstly, before I pulled it apart I made sure everything was running nice tuned ect, so that way I knew my dizzy plugs leads fuel system carb ect worked properly, The problem was a group of things firstly to get it running above 300rpm halftanked was right the condenser had stuffed out, also because I was trying to get it going yes I had retartded it heaps to the point that the timing light couldnt even pick up the balancer mark it was no where to be seen once I got it going again. Got her running now and wow let me say that again wow, would not have believed the differnce a hot cam,roller rockers and high comp heads would do, im still running stock exhaust manifolds and this is now a sweet sweet ride, still got to tune it properly though. I also now have one additional problem so if you can help out guys I would appreciate it, this old girl runs on pure lpg no petrol at all, after about 5 mins of running the lpg vaporiser iced up not o sure why, also does anyone know whether you advance or retard the timing for lpg.
    Once again thanks for all the advice guys
    Steve

  7. #7
    halftanked is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Hi again. You need a heat source for that to work. Isn't there a heating coil in the bottom that you have to hook up to 12 volts, other wise you hook it up through your heater hoses to warm it. Propane is a great fuel,likes lots of advance, but has been known to eat exhaust valves. Hank

  8. #8
    simso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks hank, I noticed the radiator level was very low and I didnt have the pressure cap on the radiator wouldnt be surprised if it was low enough to not work, explains why the unit iced up, Ill advance the spark a few degrees tommorrow and see how it goes, Thanks for your help it was appreciated
    Steve

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