Thread: squirting oil

Tweet

I built a mild 355ci and I have changed the oil pan seal 3 times and it still finds some place to push oil out. If I run it easy (not over 5000rpm) then its fine but if i push it to 7500 or even 7000 it starts to leak and when idiling will slowly stop. I have the one peace thick Mister Gasket gasket and have put form-a-gasket on both sides and let it dry for days untile I start it and yet still leaks at Hi rpm's. I have a 30% more flow oil pump, and have a brether tube on one valve cover the other one is pluged with a cap. Do I need a windage tray, or is it building crankcase pressure. anything will help thanxs.

How are you venting the crankcase, PCV or the header type of crank case evacuator? Sounds like your building some high crankcase pressures to me.
Sounds like your motor isn't that mild if your spinning it to 7500 rpm.

I just have a brether cap on the valve cover, the push in kind.
It dosent matter any more because I just spun a rod bareing. And because it is a mild motor and turning 7000 to 7500rpm I spun the bareing

Sorry to hear about the bearing.

For future reference though, it sounds like you need to run a PCV on one valve cover and the breather on the other for better pressure relief.

I am not running a pcv valve at all is that realy needed.

By the way I have a newer engine that has the TBI heads on it is there a intake to switch to a carberator. The reson I ask is because I was told they are differant bolt configerations.

I agree, motor is building positive crankcase pressure which must be relieved or it will find its own way out, along with some oil. If you don't want to run a PCV system for whatever reason, at least run 2 breathers on the valve covers.

You gotta have a pcv whether you like it or not, all that crankcase pressure is not good for your oil rings,seals ect recipe for disaster
Steve

On small block chevies, there are 2 bolt holes on the passenger side front of the block just above the oil pan. I believe it's the upper one, but it passes through to the fuel pump pushrod tube. You can insert a long bolt in there to lock the fuel pump pushrod in place. When running, though, you must insert a short bolt to prevent oil from coming out. My truck did a very similar thing. If I were running under load with any kind of engine rpm, oil would leak out on to the headers and it would billow smoke. I could only get it to leak on the highway and it was like a mist so it left no trail. It was very difficult to find. I replaced the timing cover gasket twice and the oil pan gasket once trying to fix it before I found out about the missing bolt.

We had a similar problem on the 350 we run in our circle track stock car. Thought we had a gasket leak, the lower passenger side of the engine and surrounding area would get really wet. Tighted the oil pan bolts, same thing, pulled the engine and replaced the gasket with good quality one, same thing, told to plug the bolt hole by fuel pump push rod, same thing, argh, kept getting black flagged in the races. Finally got one of the old salt tech guys to look at it. Simple thing, the fuel pump had lost its seal and was pushing oil out the front of the fuel pump. The fan must have been blowing it clean off because it never look like it was leaking from there. Got 2 more races in before overheating and blowing the engine. Getting a 400 ready for next year. (anyone want to talk 400 vs. 350 , just kidding, really don't).

Originally posted by joe bogger
I built a mild 355ci and I have changed the oil pan seal 3 times and it still finds some place to push oil out. If I run it easy (not over 5000rpm) then its fine but if i push it to 7500 or even 7000 it starts to leak and when idiling will slowly stop. I have the one peace thick Mister Gasket gasket and have put form-a-gasket on both sides and let it dry for days untile I start it and yet still leaks at Hi rpm's. I have a 30% more flow oil pump, and have a brether tube on one valve cover the other one is pluged with a cap. Do I need a windage tray, or is it building crankcase pressure. anything will help thanxs.

WOW!!!!..........AND I THOUGHT I PUSHED THE ENVELOPE

YOUR QUITE LUCKY ALL SORTS OF THINGS DIDN'T COME OUT THE ENGINE

I'm into BBC's now but a while back I played with 350's. I didn't like the idea of my engine inhaling nasty blow-by so I vented both valve covers and sprang an oil leak in the pan gasket. Fixed it three times. On the third strike I went back to a PCV valve and breather combo and no more leaks!

I had in particular one well built 350 +.030, 11:1 pistons, ported and polished double hump heads, double springs with titanium retainers, crane gold roller rockers etc, solid lift cam to the tune of about 400 horses. But it still red lined at 6500 rpm. I would say your engine ain't too mild!

Good luck, Kitz

Originally posted by kitz
I'm into BBC's now but a while back I played with 350's.

Did he say 'played with'......implying toys

thanks guys i appreciate all the help I hope It works after I get it back together.

Something I haven't done yet, but I think I'll try is setting up a smog pump and venting it to atmosphere like the drag race guys. I think it's Moroso who sells them just for this purpose.