Thread: bearing life

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Well I drove my truck to work,school or where ever I drove and every corner the engine seen at least 7,000 rpm. At what rpm should you go with the H beam. I am planing building power to 7500 on my next engine. It will be a 383 or a 395 I havent made the choice yet.

Should I run a high cost race bearing or a all around good bearing like a clevlite 77. I would like this engine to last atleast a year. Even if I have to rebuild it five times. The longest time I have gotten out of a motor was about 5 months. People say I am Hard on them but I think I need to catch it and rebuild before it gernades.

Originally posted by joe bogger
Should I run a high cost race bearing or a all around good bearing like a clevlite 77. I would like this engine to last atleast a year. Even if I have to rebuild it five times. The longest time I have gotten out of a motor was about 5 months. People say I am Hard on them but I think I need to catch it and rebuild before it gernades.

yes thats is rigth. and on the rods and bearings H orI and race bearings. the `i have posted some on them and if you read it ?? the steel and the quality of the rod .you say hard on thing ? you can not buy rods for $190.and thing they will do the jod of a set of $350 or $1000. set you get what you pay for and race bearing are use on big radii cranks mich p 77 will work if you are not running a big radii

Radii crank?? Do mean stroke or the radious of the jurnal. I am ether going to run a 3.75 or a 3.875 I am not shure yet. And I was running stock rods in those engines I was told a stock small block crank and rods would handle 500 hp. I cant say I can prove that because I have never dynod one of my engines but I am positve I not running even 400 hp. Now I dont know how many rpm's they can handle?

the radii of the crank journals fillets on races cranks is.125 makes for a better crank . and on the small block crank? it is good till it brakes??this is hard to say have seem them brake. if you run this evey chance you get to 7000 i think you needs some good stuff

I guess I dont know what you mean I have never heard of this. Is it the oil holes in the crank? Would you mind if you explained it.

joe, the fillet radius is the corner of the rod journal surface where it comes up the cheek of the crank. The larger the radius, the stronger the crank. Pat has mentioned a radius of 0.125", that would obviously equal a diameter of 0.250", so if you were to lay a 1/4" twist drill into the corner of a crank that has been manufactured with a 0.125" radius, you should not be able to see any daylight between the drill and the fillet.

With a generous fillet, you may have to massage the bearing shells so that they don't ride against the fillet.

Originally posted by techinspector1
joe, the fillet radius is the corner of the rod journal surface where it comes up the cheek of the crank. The larger the radius, the stronger the crank. Pat has mentioned a radius of 0.125", that would obviously equal a diameter of 0.250", so if you were to lay a 1/4" twist drill into the corner of a crank that has been manufactured with a 0.125" radius, you should not be able to see any daylight between the drill and the fillet.

With a generous fillet, you may have to massage the bearing shells so that they don't ride against the fillet.

good job techinspector yes the bearings will need to be H type races bearings with is type of crank

Thanks guys. Boy I dont think I have to many more questions. How about splayed main caps do they uses special bearing and you have to have the block line bored with the new caps instaled right. I may be running these but dont know much obout them and if I even need them.

Originally posted by joe bogger
Thanks guys. Boy I dont think I have to many more questions. How about splayed main caps do they uses special bearing and you have to have the block line bored with the new caps instaled right. I may be running these but dont know much obout them and if I even need them.

the block will need work for the caps do you need them?? you are going to have to decide how hi your going to buzz is engine to and how long and how many times . and how much money you have to spend ??all this talk on rods and bearrings and if you run it hard you will need very good valve train parts and good oil pan and damper.i hope i do not sound like a smart ass but you need to lean some stuff i dont know how much i can help you if you read my stuff and tech stuff is will help but you need to read some blooks i can not build the engine over the post for you will have to make some call s on this .it is your engine and you will be building it. it sounds like you have not done much hp engines you will have to do more home work and take your time or you will blow up some nice stuff

Yes I know just what you mean and no I dont think your a smart ass. I have not built to many high horspower engines in my time. You dont have alot of time to this kind of stuff when your 18 and still in high school. I have been working in the woods for my dads logging company since I could hold a saw. I bought my first truck(1972 chevy) when I was 13 and paid all $2500 of it with money I earned. I have been running that truck with engines I have put together from my own experience and what people have told me. My cusine races circle track and have seen hime build his own motors. I know he will help me and I have been reading things on small blocks for about a year. And have been working to more jobs after school to help pay for this. I realize I will more than likley reck some expensive parts but I am ready to take the leap and build some power. I have to try or I will never succeed. I truly do thank you guys for the help and please dont think I am some board nurd looking for somebody to talk to and just wasting your time. I may not know every thing and need to ask some questions but belive me I will use all of what your telling me later. Thanks again. REALY THANKS!!!

joe...before you spend the dough on splayed caps and the machine work....look into a Dart Little M block...not much more $...better oiling...better webbing in the bottom end...more meat in the cylinders...splayed caps or 4-bolt mains(your choice).....you will love the block and it will give you many years of service even with you bangin it

you will succeed

Well thanks. And I have looked into aftermarket blocks but there like $2000 to $2500 and the machining cant cost that much. I already have several small blocks.

Well thanks. And I have looked into aftermarket blocks but there like $2000 to $2500 and the machining cant cost that much. I already have several small blocks. And I havent heard how much rpm I can handle with stock 4 bolt caps. Like Pat said, I dont even know if I need them. At what point should they be used.



Sorry about the two post I hit the key to fast and sent it before I was done.