Thread: Engine Feels Tight Shortblock.
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11-13-2005 05:35 AM #1
Engine Feels Tight Shortblock.
Well the shortblock assemby in my 350 chevy has finally been put together. The crank is standard as well as the engine bore.
The pistons are new with molly rings, but the engine feels really tight. How do I judge to see if this is Ok?
I did check the crank rod and main journals, all seemed good. The bores were standard and also checked good.
It could be ok, but I wanted some educated experience before I proceed with the final assemby.
Many Thanks to all!
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11-13-2005 05:51 AM #2
it's fine. You are feeling the reisistance of the rings.
you did spin the crank as you torqued it right? Or at least gave it a spin after it was torqued? If it spun easy before you added the pistons, you are probably fine..
Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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11-13-2005 06:04 AM #3
The crank felt fine, or at least spun without to much effort. I torqued the mains down at 70 (outer) and 75 inner, 4bolt block. The rods had original cross hatch and all looked great.
I am turning this from the rear of the crank with a pair of large 440 channel locks. I was afraid that when I put the harmonic balancer bolt in to find top dead center, it would shear off. Of course I would do it with my torque wrench so it won't go over 60#s.
Is there a better way to turn the crank. I know the 440 channel locks sounds bad, but no damage is occuring, it's just tight.
Thanks!
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11-13-2005 06:13 AM #4
I just bought one of these crank sockets on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB..._BIN_Stores_ITNo matter where you go....there you are!
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11-13-2005 07:44 AM #5
new rings and a good cross hatch on the cylinders will be tight when first turning it over....use some engine oil and coat the cylinders really good....once the rings find there groove during breakin it will turn alot more easily.....old habits die hard
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11-13-2005 08:00 AM #6
I appreciate all of the responces. Just wanted to make sure and not screw something up.
Many thanks!
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11-14-2005 10:51 AM #7
Channel locks aren't bad...I've gone so far as to hit the crank weights with a sand filled plastic hammer...No damage occured there either.
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11-14-2005 11:34 AM #8
Originally posted by Hopper111
Channel locks aren't bad...I've gone so far as to hit the crank weights with a sand filled plastic hammer...No damage occured there either.
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11-14-2005 12:58 PM #9
grade 8. 7/16 bolt 1 long and the damp washer i have not snap off this .it somtimes takes a hell of lot of press on the crank threads to press the damp on .you will not snap it off turning the engine
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11-14-2005 05:10 PM #10
Right tool for the job. With crank sockets about $15 at any decent speed shop or from eBay, why not splurge. There are so few single use tools needed to put together an engine, they're all worth having. You can mount a damper with a jack hammer, but an installer makes it so easy. Next time you need them, you already have them (finding it may be another story). I just don't like like micky mousing on tools and safety. This guy saves by not buying jackstands!
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11-16-2005 10:41 AM #11
motor tight
i spun the crank while i put my mains in then had it spinning with cam and pistons went out next day and i cant move it at all should i start over or what im at a loss its my 350 for my s 10
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance