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Thread: valve train problem
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    Originally posted by drumsk
    well I am work as a mechanic for a fueling company at newark airport. So I am quite good with a drill plus I like to restore old car's(69 firebird, 67 t-bird) so roll pin and drill ehhhh..... should I use a right angle dill or will a normal drill do? Also can I go in on a 90 or do i go in on an angle.......

    I have enclosed a pic of my car tell me what you think

    I just had her painted
    nice looking ride drumsk! let us know how the drilling and tapping goes.
    Mike
    check my home page out!!!
    http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html




  2. #17
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If it isn't the stud pulling then you have a cam lobe going away.

  3. #18
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    Re: valve train problem

     



    Originally posted by drumsk
    I have excessive clatter on the #3 intake or exhaust valve to the point where the engine dies for a second. I tried to set the rocker to specs and it goes a way but comes back...... any ideas what this might be..... the head was rebuilt 5000 miles ago.... new roller lifters and rocker arms and push rods

    The vehicle is a 1988 formula 305 tbi and help would be great
    Kenny

    p.s 60 psi when i start the pig and between 15 to 20 at idle a 500rpm which has to be raised to 600 rpm

    Report this post | IP:
    DOES IT POP OUT THE INTAKE OR EXHAUST?

  4. #19
    drumsk is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    negative..................

  5. #20
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    valave clatter

     



    it the stud is not starting to pull out , put a vacume gage on it. now depending on how wild a came you have the vacume should be pretty steady. if not then there is a good chance a valve is sticking or the lifter has started to colaps

  6. #21
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    Re: valave clatter

     



    Originally posted by dozzer
    it the stud is not starting to pull out , put a vacume gage on it. now depending on how wild a came you have the vacume should be pretty steady. if not then there is a good chance a valve is sticking or the lifter has started to colaps
    this sound good dozzer. this is a roller cam and i do not think the cam lobe is going it is a valve guid lifter or the stud coming out

  7. #22
    drumsk is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    gonna take a look in a few moments

  8. #23
    drumsk is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    they look like there all the same height but i have to pull all the rocker arms off and take a look but what I did notice is that I adjust the rocker arms to where they quiet up and then she reach's operating temperature and they start ticking again does this make any sense............ I'm lost if the cam was worn she would be f==ked all the time this start once she warms up and will not stop could coolant leak in the under the intake manifold cause this???????? if it was one rock arm ok but i found 3 or four different ones loose........... maybe an oil passage clogged or coolant thinning out the oil on the top end. also noticed alond of rusty color slime on the left valve cover on the inside and now some thick brown looking stuff.............. oh well thats tonights observation..............

  9. #24
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    "Brown stuff" sounds like coolant in the oil, that can cause even a roller lifter to fail. Something is going away to cause the slack, right? Lifter, pushrod,rocker arm or valve stem are the only options. I assume you've checked the last three. You already seem to have ruled out the pulled stud thing.

  10. #25
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    if this is a steel core gm cam roller cam mud in the oil will not make it fail the gm cam are very tuff they are harden steel cores some cam manufacturers use iron core on hyd roller cores but a lot of them use steel harden cores and the lifter rolls over the cam less friction .so i thing the rod bearings would go out before the cam. the mud may raise hell with the lifter valveing i would think somthing in the engine is cracked may be a head with a bad vavle seat that came lose it needs ot come down antfreezes will take out the bearings

  11. #26
    drumsk is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    there appears to be no coolant in the oil pan or on the dipstick but..... my next move is to remove the intake manifold and see what is going on......... and move on from there......

  12. #27
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    that slime sound's like coolant mixing with oil....ok we had a valve tick now a sludge problem...not good...stop..you said you adjust lifter then warmed up engine tick came back....did you prime them before installing , then set zero lash plus 1/2 turn. A lifter does not have to be dished in to go bad. the internal seals or spring can be smashed . At this point the sludge would get the lead in problem fixing. I woukld take it there is no steam so the mix is in a head or block water passage.. Pull off heads and check gaskets good ,then head and block. that sludge got to the valve cover by being pumped up there so the stuff is in the pan also .Check the heads and block with a straight edge. If the head or block is warped or not machined straight for some reason that will give both your problem a reason to happen. The head may be flexing as it heads up due to a warp. . chances .05 % lol

  13. #28
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    when I put the lifters in 3000 miles ago i soaked them in oil over night then put them in..............You recommend pulling both head off...... the problem is only on the left side. I had taken the block to a machinist to have him check out the block he told me everything was cool with it....... the heads had had 2000 miles prior..................... but I guess if Im gonna go as far as pulling the one head off i mind as well pull off the other............. I was figuring that the intake manifold might be leaking down from one of the corner ports................ I am running crane roller lifters and a crane 2020 roller cam....... mind you only only side is out of wack with adjustment.......the other side seems to be okay..... but since I have an exhaust leak that I have been putting off.......
    an exhaust stud that keep on spinning......doh but a good inspection should be done at this point as I eat up about a gallon of coolant a month..................

  14. #29
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    HERE IS ANOTHER IDEA.IF HE LOST A PLUG BEHIND THE CAM GEAR THAT MIGHT BLEED OF ENOUGH OIL PRESSURE FROM THE TOP END THAT MIGHT START THE LIFTERS TO CLATTER.YOU NEVER SAID WHAT SIDE OF THE ENGINE IT WAS ON.DID YOU NOTICE ANY CHANGE IN OIL PRESSURE?

  15. #30
    drumsk is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    just pulled the intake off and found that all the studs are level... The engine was rebuilt 3000 miles ago by me............. reused the old cam but only had 70000 miles on it ......... according to crane its good for 200,000 miles............ here's my question is it possible that the intake gasket was leaking coolant into the lifter valley and causing my coolant leak and possibly my lifter problem?

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