Thread: crate blocks

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Check out www.sallee-cheverolet.com


Tell them what you want (if they don't allready have the recipe) and they will build it etc ..........

Good Luck, Kitz

"For the money I still think you are better off going with the 330hp GMPP 350HO long block as it already has the Vortec heads, a 4 bolt main block with high nodular crank, PM rods, a performance cam, and better valve springs at under 2400.00. Bumping it up to 350hp or more should be relatively easy with just a hydraulic roller cam swap. I just don't see how you can beat this deal and you can use the accessories from your old engine."

I agree with that sentiment, but I called Sallee and asked if the 350HO engine could pass the emissions on my side of the state (Sallee is on the other side of Oregon from me), and they said I'd have to swap out cams and it MIGHT pass. I don't know which way to go. I waver a lot, as you can see...

i was thinking, my cousin and uncle built a 383 stroker, for my cousins 69 nova, they salvaged a block, machined it and bought a stroker kit from powerhouse. the kit was like 700 and the parts were balanced and they putt it together, it still runs strong and produces the numbers i want for my van, so i think ill go this way , building a 383 stroker from scratch, they did it pretty cheap too.

That 330hp 350 H.O. long block has a very, very mild cam. 350 can be had with just the swap of a cam and the proper choice of intake manifold. 375 hp is do able, but the stock Vortec valve springs are weak and would also need to be changed.

madhooker; I've been researching the 383 option for myself for several months now and I'm finding that remachining a stock 350 block and building it up from scratch is not the most cost effective way to go, nor the most desirable.

Others may have a different opinion, but experienced 383 builders in my area say that stock 2bolt blocks are not acceptable for a stroker - that the stoker is slinging a lot more weight that causes main cap walk after a time - and by the time you have the block all re-manufactured, blueprinted, and then clearanced and preped for a stroker, you are better off to start off with either a new GMPP 383 block or a crate short block assembly.

I decided to go with a new GMPP 4-bolt 383 bare block that comes already clearanced at the pan rail - 857.00. Add a stroker rotating assembly kit from www.gofaststuff.com with internal balance high nodular crank, kb pistons and clearanced forged rods, rings and bearings, all already balanced to within 1/2 gram - 899.00. Add block finish bore, prep & blueprinting, freeze plugs, cam bearings, etc and the short block comes to around 2300.00. This set up helps save money on the roller cam later as the new block is set up for OE roller lifters, uses stock 350 balancer and flexplate, plus it has a 1pc rear main seal that is desirable to me.

Granted, you might get a cheap 383 short block with all cast rotating assembly done for around 1600.00, but in my opinion this is not the place to save a few hundred on what will become a 5000.00 project.

To make a long story short, after I aquired a deal on a PAIR of new vortec heads for 250.00 and some OE roller lifters, pan, dipstick, blancer, and flexplate and other ancillary accessories for 100.00, my build will still cost about 4800.00 after everything else is bought, I assemble it, and it is ready to drop in with headers. There is just a lot of little stuff that adds up quick like roller rockers, valve spring upgrade, valve covers, cam, pushrods, gaskets, oil pump, water pump, bolts, EGR adapters, timing chain & cover, induction, etc. Very difficult to beat the price of those crate engines that already have all this stuff.

Rebuilding a 350 that retains a stock block and rotating assembly is a LOT less expensive, and so is a new crate 350.

If you do decide to go the 383 route, I'd be happy to share my bill of materials with you - and be sure to check out www.speedomotive.com for options and ideas.

76GMC1500; The 350HO already has upgraded springs, but I'm not sure how much more lift they will accomodate.

yea, a 383 short block would be easier all aid have to do is slam on the vortecs, intake and headers. i was looking at those short blocks you recomended on speedomotive, either the budget stroker or the HT 383 sound good and they are pretty good in price,i just threw my old idea out the window when i seen the deals on speedomotive. i still have a lot of time before i actually start building a 383. not until the next spring, around May or so, my van is sitting in the drive way all gutted, and with the rainy season coming the only way to get anything done would be biulding the engine in my garage. also the reason im waiting till then to start building, im getting a great deal on a el camino. im buying a 68 off a friend of mine for 2300 in january, this car is ready to go. tip top condion, i also want to put it a stroker in the elky. anyways, im heading toward the budget 383 on speedomotive, its looks to good to pass up, yea could you share what you used on your enigne? that woould be pretty cool. thanks again MainCap.

ah crap i forget to mention, i want to go with the buget master 383 on speedomotive, and i want to use vortecs on it, i want keep the comp ratio no more than 10:1 and on there it says for 64cc=11.24-1 how could i get it lower?

madhooker; Just have them put dish top pistons in it. They will be happy to discuss your needs on the phone. I wouldn't go over 9.7:1.

I'd also opt for the 4-bolt main block- I don't trust the 2-bolt block for a stroker.

so are they both strokers? the budget and the HT? so with dish top pistons and vortec heads i should be in the clear of comp ratios right? i dont want to go any higher than that, for pump . yea i have to go with the 4 bolt , two bolt would handle it. so say i take the budget block, with the dish tops what would be the compression?

Yes, they are both strokers. Just tell Speedomotive what you want and they will put the right pistons in for you and recommend a head gasket thickness - Dish pistons are available in various CC reductions - I think 18cc dish will get you around 9.7:1.

alright, cool thanks man for the help, cuz thats still one thing i have to learn is intake and all that stuff so your advise really helps alot.

I should clarify that an 18cc D-cup piston, like the KB 135 should get you around 9.7:1cr with a 64cc chambered Vortec head on a 383 with 3.75" stroke and 5.7" rods. Though Speedomotive will steer you in the right direction, you should learn about "squish" and how block deck height and head gasket thickness effect final static compression ratio.