Thread: Cooling for power

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Here is another idea.If you get it close what would happen if you installed a little thicker head gasket.Cometic makes gasket thickness's .051,.060,.065,.071,.074.You might have to change push rod length to get your pushrod geometry correct.

This is a very interesting thread. The experiment seems to be making great progress. Didn't Edelbrock market a water injection system a few years ago? Did anyone have any experience with it?

Art

Water injection is very effective. I know of someone with an airplane that has a 3350 cu in radial engine or so that is supercharged and running N2O. When operating at full power, the engine would melt down within seconds if the water injection system failed. He's making about 4400 hp.

Originally posted by oldman2
This is a very interesting thread. The experiment seems to be making great progress. Didn't Edelbrock market a water injection system a few years ago? Did anyone have any experience with it?

Art

Edelbrock's system was called Vara-Jection and used a tuneable electronic control box. I have one on my F250, that's why I'm lurking on this thread and anxious to see the outcome of this homemade unit.

I'm very impressed with the progress that camaro_fever68 has made in understanding the internal combustion process and I commend him for being a forward-thinker.

Dave, thanks for some outstanding input on this thread.

Being that camaro_fever68 is kind of volunteering his engine in this noble experiment, I think a couple of simple safety items might be in order. Obviously running 10.9:1 on 89 octane could turn ugly quickly with a failure during hard acceleration. Maybe some kind of pressure sensor in the water line linked to a serious idiot light to indicate zero pressure if the throttle sensor had the system turned on. Additionally, using a washer tank that had a low fluid signal system might be a good idea.

Thanks Tech!! I ran one of the old Edelbrock units myself years ago. Curious to see how this works out myself. A bit of a cushion against detonation would be good.

Originally posted by oldman2
Being that camaro_fever68 is kind of volunteering his engine in this noble experiment, I think a couple of simple safety items might be in order. Obviously running 10.9:1 on 89 octane could turn ugly quickly with a failure during hard acceleration. Maybe some kind of pressure sensor in the water line linked to a serious idiot light to indicate zero pressure if the throttle sensor had the system turned on. Additionally, using a washer tank that had a low fluid signal system might be a good idea.

This was something that I have been considering for engine safety. Right now I'm keeping very close monitors on everything to run these test. Once I get the bugs worked out though I won't be running such controlled test. I'm thinking of a way to take Dave's advise on pre pressure and then popping a solenoid to make it quicker. I'm working on the nitrous plate to make it a double spray bar and I'm thinking of running one line from the pump and two solenoids like a nitrous setup. I'm going to put inline gauge in and run it inside. I'm going with a 3-step switch, 1-channel to a relay for the pump. 2-channel run to 1st solenoid, 3-run to 2nd solenoid. I cruise at about 2000-2300. I can stall to about 2800. I think I'll turn the pump on at 2500, kick the first solenoid at 2700 and kick the other solenoid at 3500 for starters. I'm going to the bone yard to try and find some reservoirs with a low level sending unit built in. An old friend works there so he is pulling a few off for me. We were talking and decided to check the bigger vehicles with rear washer. Pump would almost have to be bigger, more pressure, and maybe even built better. I don't know for sure but I'm getting them for free and I have a gauge so it won't hurt to try a few. I'm still on the drawing board. I'd be glad to hear anymore suggestions or if you see something else I missed point it out. Thanks


I just got a call that my friend found some reservoirs with dual pumps. That may be pretty interesting. I'll wire them both in and hook em to a y-connector maybe. Project rolling on

Originally posted by erik erikson
Here is another idea.If you get it close what would happen if you installed a little thicker head gasket.Cometic makes gasket thickness's .051,.060,.065,.071,.074.You might have to change push rod length to get your pushrod geometry correct.

I don't uderstand what you mean
If I get what close?

it would be nice to uses the boost of the engine to pressurerise the system or one leg 10 psi may help bust up the water in to a finner mist or the boost could turn on a psi switch you can buy all types at the parts store and run the switch on the ground side or the ground side of the relay. if you used the boost you would need no switch on relays or wire work. it would go on by the boost psi by pessure in the tank you would need a check valve in line to keep it from dripping in when not on????

"you would need a check valve in line to keep it from dripping in when not on???"

You could mount the reservoir lower than the spray bars, that way it wouldn't dribble. I wonder if it might siphon out though due to the vacuum created at the bars under the carb???? My Edelbrock unit doesn't siphon though, so I guess it would be o.k.

well this was some thing i was kicking a round.i like the sound of it ?

Originally posted by camaro_fever68
I don't uderstand what you mean
If I get what close?

After reading your other posts I was un-sure of your sucess with the water injection unit.

In looking back on this thread, a cpouple of stray thoughts flew through my head.
#1. Have you tried anything using Techs suggestion of alcohol earlier in the thread?

#2. My home water supply runs 80 PSI and I still get mineral buildup in the needle spray of my showerhead. I would suggest distilled water would probably diminish that for the most part. You had earlier mentioned that you were running .010 jets at the moment and it wouldn't take much to create an obstruction in that small an orfice. Our tap water in SoCal is notoriously hard and your local water supply could have a far lower mineral content.

Art

Everyone has some good advise on here and it's helping a lot. I appreciate very much.

I am using rubbing alcohol A2O two bottles alcohol 1 bottle water. That was a good point on the water situation. I can get purified water for a quarter per gallon at the oasis automatic water station. I'm collecting parts and designing on the drawing board now. This engine seems to like a lot more timing with the injection. I'm guessing the water is slowing the burn down????? It's hard to find good tuning info but I think we can figure it out. As soon as I finish designing I'll build and install. I think it will be much easier with a blower setup than naturally aspirated. After I figure this one out and it works I'll start on the blower motor.

Ray do you or anyone else out there know how many psi a windshield washer pump puts out? I'm sure there's quite a variation so if anyone has a number, please state what the pump was on. I'm trying to figure out how many gph your current .010/.010 jetting is putting out.

Art