Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: 383 stroker rod to block grind clearence
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    Alan76's Avatar
    Alan76 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jaragua do Sul - Brazil
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 SS Impala
    Posts
    13

    Question 383 stroker rod to block grind clearence

     



    Hello all!
    I'm just building my first 383 stroker chevy, and i have one question about how much do i have to grind from my block? I had just mount the crankshaft and rods to see how much i need to grind, but i'm surprised about the ammount of grind i had to do! arround 0.158" it seems i will hit the water jacket of the block if i attempt to do it! I'm using eagle forged crankshaft with eagle H beam rods.
    Please, any help will be very welcome!
    Thank you, and sorry for my bad english!
    Alan - Brazil

  2. #2
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    you need to grind that much out is that with your .060 add to that ? or is that just to get it to turn. i have had to take that much out but be careful some blocks do not work good for stroking and you may hit water, i use a rod or some thing you can run it in the water jack by the cylinders mark the rod with a pen at the deck of the block. pull it out and hold it inside of the cylinder walls with your mark you made up top. line up to the deck this will tell you how thick the block is at the bottom of the block make shure you brake all sharp spots off the cylinders wall or this will hurt the pistons skirts. use some sandpaper by hand or a sanding drum i hope this helps

  3. #3
    Alan76's Avatar
    Alan76 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jaragua do Sul - Brazil
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 SS Impala
    Posts
    13

    Originally posted by pat mccarthy
    you need to grind that much out is that with your .060 add to that ? or is that just to get it to turn. i have had to take that much out but be careful some blocks do not work good for stroking and you may hit water, i use a rod or some thing you can run it in the water jack by the cylinders mark the rod with a pen at the deck of the block. pull it out and hold it inside of the cylinder walls with your mark you made up top. line up to the deck this will tell you how thick the block is at the bottom of the block make shure you brake all sharp spots off the cylinders wall or this will hurt the pistons skirts. use some sandpaper by hand or a sanding drum i hope this helps
    Hi Pat!
    Thanks for reply!
    It's just to get it to turn. the rod bolt hit in the block.
    I already try to measure block thickness with a rod, and gess what? too thin block wall!
    i don't know wath to do? i could try other block, but here in Brazil is too hard to find 350chevy blocks!
    maybe if i change the rods? there must be any kind of shaved rod bolt to clear the block?

  4. #4
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    Originally posted by Alan76
    Hi Pat!
    Thanks for reply!
    It's just to get it to turn. the rod bolt hit in the block.
    I already try to measure block thickness with a rod, and gess what? too thin block wall!
    i don't know wath to do? i could try other block, but here in Brazil is too hard to find 350chevy blocks!
    maybe if i change the rods? there must be any kind of shaved rod bolt to clear the block?
    if they are bolts in the rod .maybe you can stop face the the rod cap a bit this will run the bolt in the rod more ? but check so you do not run out of treads on the bolts and when you spot. faces them the end mill needs to have a radius on it .so it they will not be a spot were it could crack i think you may sink the bolts 0.60 and trim the faces of the bolts on a lathe or try some new rods

  5. #5
    Alan76's Avatar
    Alan76 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Jaragua do Sul - Brazil
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1964 SS Impala
    Posts
    13

    Originally posted by pat mccarthy
    if they are bolts in the rod .maybe you can stop face the the rod cap a bit this will run the bolt in the rod more ? but check so you do not run out of treads on the bolts and when you spot. faces them the end mill needs to have a radius on it .so it they will not be a spot were it could crack i think you may sink the bolts 0.60 and trim the faces of the bolts on a lathe or try some new rods
    Since i have a balanced stroker kit, do you know if changing the rods or milling the bolts will affect ballancing in this kit?

  6. #6
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    yes

  7. #7
    Sixty6 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Maine
    Car Year, Make, Model: C10 custom
    Posts
    24

    I am building my first 383 also and have the same kit the 383 kit by eagle with forged crank and i am running a 2 bolt main block. I had some qeustions too when i put it together. I found that my rods hit my cam shaft and my machinist told me to grind my rods where it hit.. we couldnt see where it was too close to the block didnt have a problem with that.. i havent ran it yet still building it anyone have any suggestions??? thanks

  8. #8
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    bay city
    Posts
    10,546

    you can nip the rods or run a small base circle cam i make long feelers gage out of cardboard look for 0.60 or bit more. crank it thru. put the feeler on the cam lobe this will tell you if you hit . it may get by BUT things will move. timing chain crank flex and you will blow it up if not right so check it
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-19-2006 at 09:36 PM.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink