Thread: To Be Big or Not to be Big?
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01-14-2006 04:04 PM #16
I got 16 mpg on this 454, on a trip. the bb won't use no more gas than the hot SB driven the same way.Mike
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01-14-2006 04:18 PM #17
496
I would build a 496 with a cast steel crank,3/8 rods,Hyper pistons with a comp. ratio of 9.25 to 1, molly rings, 781 heads or something close in an open chamber, fitted with 2.19,1.88 valves,pocket port, gasket match,hyd. cam with about 230 at .050 duration,dual plane air gap intake 750 vac. carb .3.55 to 3.73 gear 2,500 converter.The comp. ratio might be a little high but it still should run o.k. on 91,92 octain gas.
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01-14-2006 11:13 PM #18
I appreciate all this advice...I don't think my intention was presented as clear as I should have made it...I realize that anything with any kind of power will not get me 30 miles to the gallon...I understand.
But id like to be able to go about 150 miles on 14 gallons of fuel. Because that's what i get pushing my 5500 pound truck with my old worn out 305...thats what im used to. Is that out of reach if i want to build any kind of power?
I also realize that your fuel milage also is determined by how much foot you use on your gas pedal
I was also right about getting flamed for even mentioning gas milage on a hotrod site...
So back to the mechanics...What is needed to make traction with my el camino? What kind of ponies could i expect from a stock 396? stock 454?
Also, does compression affect fuel consumption? I am under the impression that a low compression engine is pretty good for the street.
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01-14-2006 11:44 PM #19
That's just a bit over 10 MPG, should be able to attain that or better with a mild big block easy enough.
As far as the traction issues, check out the Hotchkiss bars for your Elky, Jegs and Summit both handle them I believe. For street use they work fine..
Think I'll leave the compression and fuel mileage for the engine guru's. IMO the highest compression you can run and still be able to run on pump gas would be the best, maybe around 9 or 9.5 to 1 should be ok. Increasing compression to a reasonable level should in theory (I think) improve the engine's efficiency. Improved efficiency equals improved performance and MPG Hopefully the engine guru's will jump in and give you some better advice....Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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01-15-2006 12:08 AM #20
Thank you for your inpunt, Like i said, im used to getting about 10 miles to the gallon if i feather the gas pedal, less if i stand into it trying to pass someone
Would it be a good idea, if i were to build a stock like bbc, that is, to use higher quality rods? or just use like reconditioned manufacturer rods?
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01-15-2006 08:03 AM #21
Originally posted by Hopper111
Thank you for your inpunt, Like i said, im used to getting about 10 miles to the gallon if i feather the gas pedal, less if i stand into it trying to pass someone
Would it be a good idea, if i were to build a stock like bbc, that is, to use higher quality rods? or just use like reconditioned manufacturer rods?Mike
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01-15-2006 09:14 PM #22
ok i came up with another question. If i were to go this way, where would i find a block?
I don't want to trust the salvage yard because in my experience the engines can have a crack and u dont even know it until u have it magnafluxed...then ur out the money u spent...
I might be able to get one at my work but no guarantees.
Ebay? Anyone care to comment here?
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01-16-2006 01:04 PM #23
what kind of power could i expect from a stock 396 or 454?
I'd rather have the 396 but i suppose a 454 is gonna be easier and cheaper to find.
I wonder...What about rearend? Is the factory 12 bolt from 1972 going to be able to stand up to a bigblock? Hrmm...
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01-16-2006 01:20 PM #24
Originally posted by Hopper111
ok i came up with another question. If i were to go this way, where would i find a block?
I don't want to trust the salvage yard because in my experience the engines can have a crack and u dont even know it until u have it magnafluxed...then ur out the money u spent...
I might be able to get one at my work but no guarantees.
Ebay? Anyone care to comment here?Last edited by lt1s10; 01-16-2006 at 01:23 PM.
Mike
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http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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01-16-2006 01:54 PM #25
I see. I agree...Ill just have to try to hit the salvage yard on saturday and see what they have and how they'll treat me if i can't use what i buy. (I get paid saturday)
What kinda cam specs am i looking for on a "just-above-stock" camshaft?
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01-16-2006 07:18 PM #26
Originally posted by Hopper111
I see. I agree...Ill just have to try to hit the salvage yard on saturday and see what they have and how they'll treat me if i can't use what i buy. (I get paid saturday)
What kinda cam specs am i looking for on a "just-above-stock" camshaft?Last edited by lt1s10; 01-16-2006 at 07:49 PM.
Mike
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01-16-2006 07:39 PM #27
Originally posted by lt1s10
I would decide what I wanted to do with the motor, and pick a cam co.and call there teck. line and tell them what I had, what I wanted to do and ask for their recommendations and go from there. You want to get a good combination of carb., intake, cam. headers, for St. use.Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-16-2006 at 07:48 PM.
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01-16-2006 07:53 PM #28
Originally posted by pat mccarthy
yes. but i would add run a hyd roller cam WHY?? some of the old big blocks were hard on cams. roller cam is the best way to go .all the big blocks i build and sell all have roller cams in them. Hey lt1st10 mark this down no figth on this oneMike
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01-16-2006 07:55 PM #29
Originally posted by lt1s10
you must be feeling good today.
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01-16-2006 08:03 PM #30
Originally posted by erik erikson
OY,MY!!!!Mike
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Getting closer on this project. What a lot of work!
Stude M5 build