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Thread: To Be Big or Not to be Big?
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    I got 16 mpg on this 454, on a trip. the bb won't use no more gas than the hot SB driven the same way.
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    Mike
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  2. #17
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thumbs up 496

     



    I would build a 496 with a cast steel crank,3/8 rods,Hyper pistons with a comp. ratio of 9.25 to 1, molly rings, 781 heads or something close in an open chamber, fitted with 2.19,1.88 valves,pocket port, gasket match,hyd. cam with about 230 at .050 duration,dual plane air gap intake 750 vac. carb .3.55 to 3.73 gear 2,500 converter.The comp. ratio might be a little high but it still should run o.k. on 91,92 octain gas.

  3. #18
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I appreciate all this advice...I don't think my intention was presented as clear as I should have made it...I realize that anything with any kind of power will not get me 30 miles to the gallon...I understand.

    But id like to be able to go about 150 miles on 14 gallons of fuel. Because that's what i get pushing my 5500 pound truck with my old worn out 305...thats what im used to. Is that out of reach if i want to build any kind of power?

    I also realize that your fuel milage also is determined by how much foot you use on your gas pedal

    I was also right about getting flamed for even mentioning gas milage on a hotrod site...

    So back to the mechanics...What is needed to make traction with my el camino? What kind of ponies could i expect from a stock 396? stock 454?

    Also, does compression affect fuel consumption? I am under the impression that a low compression engine is pretty good for the street.

  4. #19
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    That's just a bit over 10 MPG, should be able to attain that or better with a mild big block easy enough.

    As far as the traction issues, check out the Hotchkiss bars for your Elky, Jegs and Summit both handle them I believe. For street use they work fine..

    Think I'll leave the compression and fuel mileage for the engine guru's. IMO the highest compression you can run and still be able to run on pump gas would be the best, maybe around 9 or 9.5 to 1 should be ok. Increasing compression to a reasonable level should in theory (I think) improve the engine's efficiency. Improved efficiency equals improved performance and MPG Hopefully the engine guru's will jump in and give you some better advice....
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  5. #20
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thank you for your inpunt, Like i said, im used to getting about 10 miles to the gallon if i feather the gas pedal, less if i stand into it trying to pass someone

    Would it be a good idea, if i were to build a stock like bbc, that is, to use higher quality rods? or just use like reconditioned manufacturer rods?

  6. #21
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Hopper111
    Thank you for your inpunt, Like i said, im used to getting about 10 miles to the gallon if i feather the gas pedal, less if i stand into it trying to pass someone

    Would it be a good idea, if i were to build a stock like bbc, that is, to use higher quality rods? or just use like reconditioned manufacturer rods?
    I'd find me a good 454 core, carry it to the machine shop, have him, clean and bore it, knock in new cam bushings, press the new pistons on the rods, rebuild rods, check crank, if it checks ok leave it alone, new oil pump, roller timing chain, bearings and rings. do a valve job on the heads, buy a little bigger cam and get a good 600 or 650 carb. install a set of headers, paint the block, and buy a few chrome pieces, put it together yourself and have some fun with it. 15 to 18 MPG, good HP, cheap, take care of it and it will last a long time. less than 2,000.00
    Mike
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  7. #22
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    ok i came up with another question. If i were to go this way, where would i find a block?

    I don't want to trust the salvage yard because in my experience the engines can have a crack and u dont even know it until u have it magnafluxed...then ur out the money u spent...

    I might be able to get one at my work but no guarantees.

    Ebay? Anyone care to comment here?

  8. #23
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    what kind of power could i expect from a stock 396 or 454?

    I'd rather have the 396 but i suppose a 454 is gonna be easier and cheaper to find.

    I wonder...What about rearend? Is the factory 12 bolt from 1972 going to be able to stand up to a bigblock? Hrmm...

  9. #24
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    Originally posted by Hopper111
    ok i came up with another question. If i were to go this way, where would i find a block?

    I don't want to trust the salvage yard because in my experience the engines can have a crack and u dont even know it until u have it magnafluxed...then ur out the money u spent...

    I might be able to get one at my work but no guarantees.

    Ebay? Anyone care to comment here?
    hopper, the reason you deal with local people is, if you have a problem, you can go back to them and try to work it out. don't buy nothing without knowing you can get your money back if you can't use it. every junk yrd. i've ever delt with stands behind there parts. you might lose the cost of getting it checked, but thats a chance you'll have to take. don't buy no motor off ebay unless you know its good, and how you do that i don't know.
    Last edited by lt1s10; 01-16-2006 at 01:23 PM.
    Mike
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  10. #25
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I see. I agree...Ill just have to try to hit the salvage yard on saturday and see what they have and how they'll treat me if i can't use what i buy. (I get paid saturday)

    What kinda cam specs am i looking for on a "just-above-stock" camshaft?

  11. #26
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    Originally posted by Hopper111
    I see. I agree...Ill just have to try to hit the salvage yard on saturday and see what they have and how they'll treat me if i can't use what i buy. (I get paid saturday)

    What kinda cam specs am i looking for on a "just-above-stock" camshaft?
    I would decide what I wanted to do with the motor, and pick a cam co.and call their teck. line and tell them what I had, what I wanted to do and ask for their recommendations and go from there. You want to get a good combination of carb., intake, cam. headers, for St. use.
    Last edited by lt1s10; 01-16-2006 at 07:49 PM.
    Mike
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  12. #27
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

     



    Originally posted by lt1s10
    I would decide what I wanted to do with the motor, and pick a cam co.and call there teck. line and tell them what I had, what I wanted to do and ask for their recommendations and go from there. You want to get a good combination of carb., intake, cam. headers, for St. use.
    yes. but i would add run a hyd roller cam WHY?? some of the old big blocks were hard on cams. roller cam is the best way to go .all the big blocks i build and sell all have roller cams in them. Hey lt1st10 mark this down no figth on this one
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 01-16-2006 at 07:48 PM.

  13. #28
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    Originally posted by pat mccarthy
    yes. but i would add run a hyd roller cam WHY?? some of the old big blocks were hard on cams. roller cam is the best way to go .all the big blocks i build and sell all have roller cams in them. Hey lt1st10 mark this down no figth on this one
    you must be feeling good today.
    Mike
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  14. #29
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Originally posted by lt1s10
    you must be feeling good today.
    OY,MY!!!!

  15. #30
    lt1s10's Avatar
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    Originally posted by erik erikson
    OY,MY!!!!
    or he could be sick! one or the other.
    Mike
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