Thread: How hard is it?

Tweet

Originally posted by Don Shillady
Also you can get a nice torque wrench from Sears, the kind that clicks when you reach the set torque. The kind of torque wrench with a dial pointer is better than nothing but not much.
Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

I'm not a big fan of "clicker" torque wrenches. I have torsion bar wrenches in 1/2. 3/8. and 1/4. I also have "clickers" in 1/2 and 3/8. My 1/2 clicker is a Mac that I've had recalibrated twice. Once it was off 12% and the other time 9%. My 1/2" torsion bar is an almost 50 year old Craftsman that I've always treated like gold. When I've checked the old Craftsman and the newly recalibrated "clicker," the old torsion bar has been spot on. The clicker has always been light when out of adjustment. When torquing bolts, I'll use the clickers to do the coarse tightning, and the torsion bars to final them in. Rachets make life a lot easier. If the clickers are new or just calibrated, they're great. At 12% soft, there could be serious sealing problems. They only problem with torsion bar wrenches is being carefull that they're not binding on the scale, and they can be rough holding steady at high torque readings. As with mileage, opinions may vary. All the advice you're getting here is excellent, and I urge you to go forward and dooit tooit. Take your time, and when in doubt, ask.

That's very interesting about the calibration of the clicker-type torque wrench. I had no idea they could be off by so much. My problem with the dial type is that I always seem to go past the mark so I like it when the clicker tells me to stop. Even so my machine shop guy advised me to torque the head bolts to 65 ft-lb instead of the Chiltons 60, and so far none of the head bolts have broken so if the wrench was low it came out about right. For low torque settings like the exhaust manifold and aluminum intake I really need that cllicker or I will keep going until something gives at those low settings.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,

Arms too strong. You need to get off steroids.

Art

One of my Techs just bought a torque wrench from Snap On, It vibrates in your hand when you reach the desired torque, and automatically converts inch lbs to newton lbs to foot lbs. It is drop proof and is self calibrating. It cost him $ 400.00, but I guess if you earn your living with a tool, it is worth it.

That Snap On truck is a dangerous place to visit.

Im with "Itoldyouso" with regards to being honest about your mechanical ability. Most people if not all memebers on here are rather inclined; but I have known people who think they are rather good at carpentry and the tools they own were bought as a kit from K Mart! My brother thinks has some mechanical inclination because he cleans his car, changes his own oil and does his own brakes....yet stripped the aluminum threads when installing the trans pan while doing a fluid filter change!

Now if you are honest with your mechanical ability, then go for it. I did my first 350 at 14 years old, with my Father at my side teching me the whole way and its one of the greatest memories I have.

Do it to learn, not to save a lot of $$ though. Keep in mind most likely your cranks is gonna need to be turned and that is approx $100. Then rods reconditioned is another 80-100 including resizing and pressing on new pistons. Head reconditioned, and that with minimal new parts is gonna be a low of $150 and with some new guides, and maybe new stock (not SS )valves is gonna be up to $300. Engine kit $250-300. Thats for a bare bones no performance rebuild. A few dollars more and you can upgrade your pistons from stock cast to hypers and add a little performance cam but will most likely be another $100 or so for those 2 upgrades. Add that up and your looking at a minimum of $600 for totally stock, and up to $900 for a motor with some upgraded parts. Then add a cheap torque wrench for $80, cheap ring compressor $20, Engine stand $40 for a cheap one, engine hoist rental $40 day.... add that as well, and you can see it gets costly. Reason I say this is if its not for the sake of learning, and having the ability and pride to say you did it yourself you can buy a bone stock 350 reconditioned engine if you shop around with at least a 12 month up to 36 month warranty for $800-$1200 bucks.

By all means I would recommend the build yourself, and then you will relaize why so many on here are so addicted to this stuff. Good luck in whatever you choose.

Well, I agree with the "Go 4 It" posters. If you dont know how already... its a great opertunity to learn.

Gary

These guys are right on the money. If you are doing it to save money, you won't. Chevy sells a brand new goodwrench engine for about $ 1300.00, with the 3 year warranty they mention. I can't rebuild an engine for any less than that, if I do it right.

BUT, if you want to just tear one down to learn, go for it.

Don