Thread: need help not making no power
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02-15-2006 08:23 AM #16
What exhaust behind stock manifolds? Not the V-6 pipes,converter, muffler I hope.
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02-15-2006 09:03 PM #17
i was hearing funny noise out of the torque converter the sound it like a ball bearing or something and i want to no can the converter be holdin the car backmeat1037
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02-15-2006 11:43 PM #18
Originally posted by demetrice askew
i was hearing funny noise out of the torque converter the sound it like a ball bearing or something and i want to no can the converter be holdin the car backRAY
'69 Chevelle--385
'68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
'78 Luv--383
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02-16-2006 10:43 PM #19
i thinkmeat1037
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02-16-2006 10:47 PM #20
what do i need to do to get the timing rightmeat1037
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02-16-2006 11:00 PM #21
Originally posted by demetrice askew
what do i need to do to get the timing rightRAY
'69 Chevelle--385
'68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
'78 Luv--383
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02-21-2006 07:37 AM #22
nomeat1037
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02-21-2006 10:49 AM #23
Well D, You have to get a timing light. While your buying one, get the good one with the timing dial. It's a good investment. The cheapo is around 30 and the good one is around 60 but worth it for tuning. When you get one, set the dial to 10 and loosen the distributor al little bit, enough to turn it with a little force. Use a white paint marker or liquid paper and mark zero on the timing tab and on the dampner. Disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the line going to the carb. Set base timing by having the dial at 10 and turn the distributor until the zero marks line up at idle. To check total, set the dial about 32 and come up with RPM until the mark on the dampner quits advancing and then hold there while you turn the dial to make the marks line up at zero. The dial setting will be your total. Should be close to 36 with the 10 base. That will get you close, actual tuning takes a dyno or drag strip.RAY
'69 Chevelle--385
'68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
'78 Luv--383
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02-25-2006 11:00 PM #24
thanksmeat1037
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02-26-2006 10:38 PM #25
dual plane intake, and a set of long tube headders. Flow through the biggest mufflers you can mount, and dump it in front of the rear wheels. You'll notice the difference.
Also, very surprised no one chimed in and suggested the vacuum advance on the distributor might be bad. ( Suck on the hose and watch for movement. You should see SOME movement of the plate, and it must hold vacuum, not leak down. )
Timing light is an awesome idea, but with enough effort you can get it by using ' the seat of your pants'. Keep adjusting it in small increments till you get the best idle, + acceleration + top end without pinging or any backfiring. Get either of those, and it is time to start turning in the other direction. Timing tape is a very good idea for running big cams.
Not that I am knocking a timing light... I use one if I got one.
BUT.. one thing no one will argue, I think. Regardless of the #s, when the engine is happy, that is where you leave the distributor!Last edited by firebird77clone; 02-26-2006 at 10:44 PM.
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Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
EG
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02-27-2006 07:40 AM #26
Odds are you have a 2.56 or 2.73 rear,7.5 ring gear. At best you won't get up on the cam til about70mph. You will definately need headers,balance tube,much more gear to go with that engine set up. Get your gas at the airport or local race track, because pump gas isn't going to work without damage. You could try hooking a vacuum gauge to your engine and time it to get the highest possible reading without detonation. Hank
I wanted to complain about this NZ slang business, but I see it was resolved before it mattered. LOL..
the Official CHR joke page duel