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02-19-2006 05:12 AM #1
350 rebuild for Cobra replica
Hi all .... I am a new member here and would like to get some advice on rebuilding a 350 goodwrench engine.
What it is, I am located in Spain and am just importing a Cobra replica kit from England. I have decided on a small block Chevy over a Ford due to more torque, cheaper bits, more tunable etc. I originally wanted to build the engine myself but when pricing up a stroker crate motor it was working out around the same price as doing it myself. However yesterday I have bought a goodwrench 350 which is in an old chevy pickup which is being scrapped. The engine runs really well and doesn't look too old at all. What I want to do is rebuild the engine for maximum power, spending 3 or 4,000 dollars US on it. The way I have done my Mustang 289 is Edelbrock performer RPM cam, heads and air gap intake with Barry Grant Speed Demon carb. I am tempted to go down a similar road with this but I want to know if there are slightly better heads and I'm sure there is a better cam choice and also should I stroke the engine. I really want to get this right first time as with the ford engine I have had 3 cams, 2 carbs, 2 sets of heads, 3 sets of different rockers .... I'm sure that most of you must have been there in the past ..... Any suggestions gratefully received.
Dave from Sunny Spain.Last edited by spanishdave; 02-20-2006 at 06:07 AM.
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02-21-2006 11:17 AM #2
Re: 350 rebuild for Cobra replica
Originally posted by spanishdave
Hi all .... I am a new member here and would like to get some advice on rebuilding a 350 goodwrench engine.
What it is, I am located in Spain and am just importing a Cobra replica kit from England. I have decided on a small block Chevy over a Ford due to more torque, cheaper bits, more tunable etc. I originally wanted to build the engine myself but when pricing up a stroker crate motor it was working out around the same price as doing it myself. However yesterday I have bought a goodwrench 350 which is in an old chevy pickup which is being scrapped. The engine runs really well and doesn't look too old at all. What I want to do is rebuild the engine for maximum power, spending 3 or 4,000 dollars US on it. The way I have done my Mustang 289 is Edelbrock performer RPM cam, heads and air gap intake with Barry Grant Speed Demon carb. I am tempted to go down a similar road with this but I want to know if there are slightly better heads and I'm sure there is a better cam choice and also should I stroke the engine. I really want to get this right first time as with the ford engine I have had 3 cams, 2 carbs, 2 sets of heads, 3 sets of different rockers .... I'm sure that most of you must have been there in the past ..... Any suggestions gratefully received.
Dave from Sunny Spain.
There are other top end kits availabe that take the guess work out of it but this is one that I am currently running and it performs excellent. It idles about 750 RPM and pulls plenty vacuum. You could drive it anywhere and it has a racy idle.RAY
'69 Chevelle--385
'68 Camaro--Twin Turbo
'78 Luv--383
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02-21-2006 11:42 AM #3
Before you spend any dough just an observation. And no, I don't give a rip about the usual Ford vs Chevy arguments.
I don't know the European market as well as the U.S. market, but your rationale about building a better engine cheaper with the Chev has one big hole in it. In the world of Cobra replicas, the penalty in value for having a Chev engine in the car is higher than your $3-4K engine cost. Or in other words, every penny you put into the Chev engine you're throwing away. If you can afford to do that it's your call, though not a good econimic choice. Lots of people will tell you to do what you want, it's your car. Though superficially true, they can easily say that because it YOUR money they're throwing away, not theirs.
You may think you'll never sell the car so resale value is of no consequence. Rarely does that happen. Either tastes change, or unexpected circumstances come along, and some day you will likely have to sell the car. In the end you'd get a better return with a Ford engine.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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02-21-2006 12:23 PM #4
Originally posted by Bob Parmenter
Before you spend any dough just an observation. And no, I don't give a rip about the usual Ford vs Chevy arguments.
I don't know the European market as well as the U.S. market, but your rationale about building a better engine cheaper with the Chev has one big hole in it. In the world of Cobra replicas, the penalty in value for having a Chev engine in the car is higher than your $3-4K engine cost. Or in other words, every penny you put into the Chev engine you're throwing away. If you can afford to do that it's your call, though not a good econimic choice. Lots of people will tell you to do what you want, it's your car. Though superficially true, they can easily say that because it YOUR money they're throwing away, not theirs.
You may think you'll never sell the car so resale value is of no consequence. Rarely does that happen. Either tastes change, or unexpected circumstances come along, and some day you will likely have to sell the car. In the end you'd get a better return with a Ford engine.
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02-21-2006 03:30 PM #5
here, this website might help....
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
they have hundreds of differant SBC dynoed combos to look through. good luck.
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02-21-2006 04:18 PM #6
Well, look like there's one more going together that will eventually force me to drag that old '85 Vette hulk out and put a Windsor in it.....Really will be fun to take it to the Corvette Rally in Spearfish some day!!!!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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02-21-2006 04:36 PM #7
Well, now that you mention it Denny, I do have a 440 Magnum and 4 speed in my collection of mis-matched parts, trade-ins, and left overs...... Could be out at the farm, or maybe in Grandpa's barn, or maybe at my brother-in-laws....It's a thought, though....Thanks man.Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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02-22-2006 01:24 AM #8
Originally posted by richlo65
here, this website might help....
http://www.ryanscarpage.50megs.com/combos1.html
they have hundreds of differant SBC dynoed combos to look through. good luck.Last edited by spanishdave; 02-22-2006 at 01:27 AM.
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02-22-2006 03:46 AM #9
Of course it's not "right" to put a Chebby in a Cobra, but even a Cobra with a Ford in it will still only be a replica, not the real thing. I'm from Germany and the market for Cobras here is small, but there is one. And it doesn't seem to make a difference in value if you have a Chevy or a Ford power plant in it. Most Cobras here have Chevy engines in them and parts for Chevy motors are much cheaper and more readily available than for Fords. I would probably go the Chevy way. But that's just an opinion from another Europe-based guy.
As to the engine itself, I can't give you all that much advice, because I'm not in the racing business. If you have 3 or 4k to spend, then I would still check out the price of different parts and get the good stuff for cheap money, then you can buy more good stuff. I'm not sure about the prices in the US, but here it would be cheaper to get for example a Scat rotating assy, costs a good deal less than the Eagle and is the same quality, as long as you stay under something around 600 HP. I would definetly go for the roller setup on cam shafts, they're expensive, but they allow for better flow, because the valves are open high for longer even on a shorter duration cam. As for the heads and exact figures ask the others guys on this forum, they can certainly give you better advice than me. Just wanted to say, 3 or 4k sounds a lot, but you'll see that it's spent much faster than you think if you're not careful.
Hope that helps you a bit,
Mad
PS: A Cobra is a very light vehicle, watch out for traction problems, they're more than likely to occur if your power is too high and the rearend not firmly on the ground. It's not only the weight-power ratio that gets you moving down the track...Harharhar...
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