Thread: 327 vs 400 argument..

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Originally posted by erik erikson
You are right.Would that be a single phase motor?The one on my air compressor has being acting up a little.

Give it a couple aspirin and have it call me in the morning.......

You just can't beat Va. farm boys............we've been porking beans for a long time...lol

Originally posted by hambiskit
You just can't beat Va. farm boys............we've been porking beans for a long time...lol

That is what I was afraid of.

Originally posted by hambiskit
You just can't beat Va. farm boys............we've been porking beans for a long time...lol

that's just something else erik don't know. if you take a pot of beans and put a piece of pork in it, I believe you would be porking the beans, and you get pork and beans out of the pot and a co. came along and called theirs pork "n" beans which eirk thinks is what all of them are called i guess. wrong!!! I try to teach him something about building motors and now I got to give cooking lessons to. got to be a easer way to make a living than this.

Originally posted by lt1s10
that's just something else erik don't know. if you take a pot of beans and put a piece of pork in it, I believe you would be porking the beans, and you get pork and beans out of the pot and a co. came along and called theirs pork "n" beans which eirk thinks is what all of them are called i guess. wrong!!! I try to teach him something about building motors and now I got to give cooking lessons to. got to be a easer way to make a living than this.

Oh boy!!! just found out we can't pick on ricers, now we can argue about food!!! yipppppeeeeeeeee!!!!

Originally posted by lt1s10
that's just something else erik don't know. if you take a pot of beans and put a piece of pork in it, I believe you would be porking the beans, and you get pork and beans out of the pot and a co. came along and called theirs pork "n" beans which eirk thinks is what all of them are called i guess. wrong!!! I try to teach him something about building motors and now I got to give cooking lessons to. got to be a easer way to make a living than this.

I see you are still up-set about the plasi-gauge issue you have.Please seek professional help.Let it go, everyone else has but you.Move on with your life. You might be able to sweep the floor in my shop but I doubt it "John Boy".Anyone that builds engines and uses plasti-gauge really is not an engine builder they are a back-yard mechanic or a cobbler.You can't teach an old dog new tricks.Oh,by the way I build CNC cylinder heads and engines.I do not build electric "motors".Thanks for the cooking lesson though it was very helpfull.:

I don't know why I'm bothering to tell you this Eric, because I know that you have figgered it out - but you put the plstigauge in the reliefs to get a static check on your valve to piston clearence.
It works great to double check your math- in case you forget a measurement in your equation. It happens all the time, and many engine builders use it, not all have cnc capibilities. It doesn't mean that they are any less the mechanic than you.

Originally posted by hambiskit
I don't know why I'm bothering to tell you this Eric, because I know that you have figgered it out - but you put the plstigauge in the reliefs to get a static check on your valve to piston clearence.
It works great to double check your math- in case you forget a measurement in your equation. It happens all the time, and many engine builders use it, not all have cnc capibilities. It doesn't mean that they are any less the mechanic than you.

In your first post you said you lay the plasti gauge on top of the valve reliefs now you say you place it in the valve reliefs.Which is it?I guess I was un-aware that there was plasti-gauge even thick enough to check piston to valve clearance.It sure sounds like a lot of work taking the heads on and off the engine.Many engine builders use it?Having CNC machines has nothing to do with checking piston to valve clearance only fly-cutting the piston valve reliefs if you have the right program.I am not a mechanic. I build CNC cylinder heads and engines.

Originally posted by erik erikson
In your first post you said you lay the plasti gauge on top of the valve reliefs now you say you place it in the valve reliefs.Which is it?I guess I was un-aware that there was plasti-gauge even thick enough to check piston to valve clearance.It sure sounds like a lot of work taking the heads on and off the engine.Many engine builders use it?Having CNC machines has nothing to do with checking piston to valve clearance only fly-cutting the piston valve reliefs if you have the right program.I am not a mechanic. I build CNC cylinder heads and engines.

we know you're not a mechanic, but you sure talk a lot of crap to be just a cylinder head machine operator. I guess if you have the right program it will x ray the head so you can see the piston to valve clearances. you say it sounds like a lot of work to pull the heads off to check piston to valve clearances, it is a lot of work , but that's the only way to know, and if you don't, and don't use plastigauge on the last assembly, to check oil clearances. you're building a 1/2 a*s motor. when you're charging as much as you you are, you should be doing everything possible to be sure its right. my brother owned a motor rebuild plant in N.C. and from 1990 to 95 my shops in Richmond installed close to 1300 motors, some mo. we would install 75 motors, so I know a little about building a motor, installing and making it run after you get it in. what is it you do again?

Originally posted by lt1s10
we know you're not a mechanic, but you sure talk a lot of crap to be just a cylinder head machine operator. I guess if you have the right program it will x ray the head so you can see the piston to valve clearances. you say it sounds like a lot of work to pull the heads off to check piston to valve clearances, it is a lot of work , but that's the only way to know, and if you don't, and don't use plastigauge on the last assembly, to check oil clearances. you're building a 1/2 a*s motor. when you're charging as much as you you are, you should be doing everything possible to be sure its right. my brother owned a motor rebuild plant in N.C. and from 1990 to 95 my shops in Richmond installed close to 1300 motors, some mo. we would install 75 motors, so I know a little about building a motor, installing and making it run after you get it in. what is it you do again?

Why,don't you go back and read my post about how I check piston to valve clearance.I use a piece of measuring equipment called a dial indicator.I also use a piece of eqipment called an inside bore gauge to set up my crank and rod's oil clearance.Who checks piston to valve clearance using plasti- gauge?Why don't you do yourself a favor and go to a real shop that builds engines and see how they check their clearance's.You might be a little surprised.I have not used plasti-gauge on any engines in many years.You really need to move on with this.I am done with this.If you don't know what I do then I am not going to tell you.You just can't teach an old dog new tricks.

Originally posted by DennyW
Erik, how do you know that the valves are at, and in the right position to the piston ? I would be interested in hearing the procedure.

I believe I have already covered that in a previous post.

Originally posted by DennyW
Well, not really. There are 5 different ways to check that. You only covered the basic. No problem, I thought I might be slipping or something.

I think you know and you where checking to see if I knew.You are not slipping.I left it basic so I would not confuse people.

I know how to do it. you're the one that don't know but one way. the way you explained it, you don't know what you have when you get through. you know the valve is not hitting the piston, but you don't have no idea where the valve is really at. if you don't put something on top of the piston for the valve to hit, then you don't know. who checks valve to piston clearances with plastigauge or clay? everyone that I know of that build hi performance motors. I hope you are through with it, and you can stop making fun of other peoples spelling while you're at it. you started this bull crap last nite I didnt, so take your own advice and move on,

Originally posted by lt1s10
I know how to do it. you're the one that don't know but one way. the way you explained it, you don't know what you have when you get through. you know the valve is not hitting the piston, but you don't have no idea where the valve is really at. if you don't put something on top of the piston for the valve to hit, then you don't know. who checks valve to piston clearances with plastigauge or clay? everyone that I know of that build hi performance motors. I hope you are through with it, and you can stop making fun of other peoples spelling while you're at it. you started this bull crap last nite I didnt, so take your own advice and move on,

If the piston is at TDC and the valve is at max. lift and I open it another .060 or .080 and it does not touch the piston why would'nt I know where the valve is at?Anyone else want to try exlaining this to Mike here?Dave,Pat,Denny anyone?I give up.

Originally posted by erik erikson
If the piston is at TDC and the valve is at max. lift and I open it another .060 or .080 and it does not touch the piston why would'nt I know where the valve is at?Anyone else want to try exlaining this to Mike here?Dave,Pat,Denny anyone?I give up.

I don't need nobody to explain it to me, I know what your 're doing, and all you know is the valve is not hitting the piston, you don't know how close it is to the piston. it would be nice to know. hambiskit explained it to"you"this morning and you didn't pay no attention to him.

it the same as checking the bearings with plastergauge, it dont have to be done, but you need to stop telling everybody how good a motor you build, because for what people are paying for them they're not getting their moneys worth.