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Thread: need a cam
          
   
   

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  1. #16
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by hambiskit
    Which cam would you go with Richard?
    Jim, I think you've pretty much nailed it. It's matched to the c.r. and is a dual pattern cam, which is what you need with production heads. With a good set of headers and unrestricted exhaust system, the sound of this cam should scare the hell out of small children.
    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  2. #17
    SLAMMDS15's Avatar
    SLAMMDS15 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 86 GMC S-15 SBC powered
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    so I'm confused???? which cam and springs would go well with what I have? and/or what could I change relitively cheaply to make it better?

    Oh and would one of those cams I mentioned be any good? or the one mentioned before hand be better, I just don't want to get into any more machine work, I'm running low on funds. The E-test on my caprice killed my budjet.
    Last edited by SLAMMDS15; 03-19-2006 at 06:35 PM.
    I've got the itch to lay some rubber down!!! ~Thanks grampa! its been 10 years worth of work, I just wish you could see it~

  3. #18
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks Richard....
    chase's the cats outta the yard too.
    The Comp xtreme 274 will work for you as well, it won't come on as quick with the 110-112 LS but the price reflects the difference.

    A stock iron head will take up to about 500 lift without any major head work modifacations. Just match your spring set from the cam grinders recomendations- I always check the seat pressures on the springs to make sure not to get a mismatched set- this happens, and dropping a valve is terminal. While your there- check for bind also- I had a 292 bind up on me once....worst cam I ever bought, I use it for a door stop.
    Go to some 4x4 & hi-performance swap meets and swap that intake for the highest rise SINGLE plane intake you can find and you should be good. Save up as you can for a set of serious heads, something that flows about 180-200 on the intake side.
    Good Luck
    Last edited by hambiskit; 03-19-2006 at 06:43 PM.
    Jim

  4. #19
    SLAMMDS15's Avatar
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    What do you mean by bind?
    I've got the itch to lay some rubber down!!! ~Thanks grampa! its been 10 years worth of work, I just wish you could see it~

  5. #20
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    If the lift is too high for the springs they will bind togather and you will either wipe a lobe off the cam, snap a spring, or the keepers will jump out & drop the valve down the chamber...not good.
    I run 1/8th min. ( check with a feeler gauge) between the coils at full lift. Any less and you will need to have the seats cut 60 thousands and shim up The cam makers are pretty good about this anymore so make sure to order the springs made for the cam grind recomended.

    I wouldn't buy a cam off of E-BAY.
    Last edited by hambiskit; 03-19-2006 at 06:51 PM.
    Jim

  6. #21
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    Point taken about e-bay, and spring bind. how do you check valve to piston clearence?
    I've got the itch to lay some rubber down!!! ~Thanks grampa! its been 10 years worth of work, I just wish you could see it~

  7. #22
    hambiskit is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    clay the top of a piston- put the head on it - snug it down- turn it over once by hand- remove the head- mic. the clay.
    With those heads you should be more than good.
    Jim

  8. #23
    erik erikson's Avatar
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    Originally posted by hambiskit
    I like the Crane part#110692 cam, grind # H-238/3347-2s-6 with springs # 99846.
    I'd loose the Air Gap and find a Dart single plane high rise.
    The cam will work fine in the engine but you don't have enough stall speed or gear to take full advantage of it.Either change your stall and gears or take 10 degree's off the cam at .050.

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