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Thread: '56 streetrod under construction...
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    '56 rookie's Avatar
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    '56 streetrod under construction...

     



    My brother and i areworking on restoring a '56 chevy. This is our first restoration project. We're thinking about boring out the stock 265 engine. It still purrs like a kitten, but we need some more horsepower. What i need to know is:
    A. What is the largest we can bore the 265.
    B. is it really worth the trouble. We've already decided to dumb the 2 spe3ed powerglide tranny for something with an overdrive. Any suggestions on that would be much appreciated as well.

    Also , if there's anyone in southern california who knows a good nickel plater, and if that's worth it.

  2. #2
    MrMopar64's Avatar
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    If it runs good just put it togther and have fun driving it after all gas is 3.50 a gallon and I don't think it's going to get any better
    I'm not a Chevy guy but I would guess that you could put a 350 in there and get more hp cheaper then doing the 265

    MM64

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    BUT RATHER TO SKID IN BROADSIDE,
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  3. #3
    '56 rookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MrMopar64
    If it runs good just put it togther and have fun driving it after all gas is 3.50 a gallon and I don't think it's going to get any better
    I'm not a Chevy guy but I would guess that you could put a 350 in there and get more hp cheaper then doing the 265

    MM64

    www.rgkustoms.com

    tha'ts what we're kicking around as well, but not entirely sure yet. We're going to be pulling the motor and trans on sunday.

  4. #4
    robot's Avatar
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    If it is a stock 265, boring the cylinders will not contribute enough horsepower to notice UNLESS the cylinders are worn and need to be bored.

    The thing has a cast iron powerglide with a relatively tall first gear. You can put a 700R4 (has overdrive) in the car but you need to know what you are doing....have you done anything like this before? The stocker had motor mounts in the front of the engine and mounts on the bell housing. Later model stuff have mounts on the side of the engine and a transmission mount at the rear of the tranny. It is not good to mix the two styles (front mounts and a rear tranny mount) since the stability of the powertrain is lessened. Therefore, if you do a late model trans, you should also go to a later model block with side mounts.

    Any small block chebbie V8 engine will bolt in directly. There are two water pump lengths and a few other details but it is pretty straightforward and has been done at least four zillion times. Later model blocks still have the provision for the front mounts so you can go new engine/old transmission if you want......until the old powerglide pukes at least.

    BUT....if you are "restoring" the car, any changes past stock mean that you are not restoring it anymore.....you're building a hot rod!!

  5. #5
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    If the engine & trans. you have now are in good shape, you may be able to sell them to a collector & use the money to help pay for the new engine/trans.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
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  6. #6
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    Chances are with a car that old that its probably already been punched out once or twice. I'd buy oner of those brand new Fuelly 350 crate motors from GM Performance if it were mine.

  7. #7
    '56 rookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by robot
    If it is a stock 265, boring the cylinders will not contribute enough horsepower to notice UNLESS the cylinders are worn and need to be bored.

    The thing has a cast iron powerglide with a relatively tall first gear. You can put a 700R4 (has overdrive) in the car but you need to know what you are doing....have you done anything like this before? The stocker had motor mounts in the front of the engine and mounts on the bell housing. Later model stuff have mounts on the side of the engine and a transmission mount at the rear of the tranny. It is not good to mix the two styles (front mounts and a rear tranny mount) since the stability of the powertrain is lessened. Therefore, if you do a late model trans, you should also go to a later model block with side mounts.

    Any small block chebbie V8 engine will bolt in directly. There are two water pump lengths and a few other details but it is pretty straightforward and has been done at least four zillion times. Later model blocks still have the provision for the front mounts so you can go new engine/old transmission if you want......until the old powerglide pukes at least.

    BUT....if you are "restoring" the car, any changes past stock mean that you are not restoring it anymore.....you're building a hot rod!!

    Thanks for the info. The powerglide is already toast that's why we're pulling it.Thanks for the tip about restoring as well.. I guess we are building a hot rod. When I think "hot rod" i think big block and racing . This is going to be a cruiser. Nothing too flashy for the first venture into this arena. Although both my brother and i don't know much, respectively, we do have the passion and help from some mechanic friends. None of them have built a shoebox though so I figure I'd come to the experts. Thanks again for the info.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro70z28
    If the engine & trans. you have now are in good shape, you may be able to sell them to a collector & use the money to help pay for the new engine/trans.

    The motor is good , the tranny is crap.i'll run it in the classifieds to see what kind of hits we get on it.

  9. #9
    '56 rookie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corvette64
    Chances are with a car that old that its probably already been punched out once or twice. I'd buy oner of those brand new Fuelly 350 crate motors from GM Performance if it were mine.

    As far as I know the engine is bone stock. We knew the original owner. We're the third party. Inherited by a friend and sold to us.

  10. #10
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    If the trans. case is o.k. it still might sell. OEM cases gotta' be getting rare these days (my guess).
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
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  11. #11
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    Get rid of the 265. Have a 283 in mine still. It runs great with a nice cam, hump heads, and manifold carb setup. HOWEVER, mine to is a cruiser and you are still gonna want to punch it and thats not enoug to get these going. I recently changed to a 3.73 rear (ford) and have a TH350. I would highly suggest the 700r4 or 2004r for cruising, and better gas economy. The 700 has a little better take off. One thing, if you stay with the small block, I recently bought the tri-y headers from Doug Thorly, they are not the full length type and dont rub on the ground, they bolt right in and sound awesome. Best of luck in your build and get used to a lot of headturning!
    "I also have a tuner, the reception's not to good, but it works"
    Phil...

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