Thread: thinking of building 383

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OK, sorry if this has been posted and talk about before but I'm thinking of building a 383. My daily-driver truck right now has a 305 that's already bored .030 over and she's getting a might tired. Add to the fact that I just bought a motorcycle that I plan to ride more as transportation and you've got the makings of a cool plan .

Ok, I know I know, it's a truck and technically not a hotrod. I'm not trying to beat ricers or some others with more money than brains, but I'd still like more power (which translates into maybe a longer living engine) for towing, passing, and other stuff. Originally I'd like to keep it around $4000 and 400rwhp. This includes having it assembled, my old engine ripped out and the new one installed. I think 400 maybe a little too much to expect.

Here's the plan: 350 two piece rear main seal block, 383 rotating assembly (from SCAT, any other good ones?), edelbrock performer heads with 70cc combustion chambers, edelbrock performer intake, edelbrock performer 700cfm electric choke carb, not sure about cam (small base circle? I know what it means, looking for suggestions), probably some good lifters and rockers. I'm running a th350c right now, which may be flying out the window, it was rebuilt/replaced last year (and has a leak that just won't stop!) and I doubt that she'll handle the power of the engine going in for very long so I'm either on the lookout for a th400 or a built-up 700r4 (I'd like to have the over drive). I know I need a new exhaust system (this one is a little pieced together and slightly too loud, so I may be going with flowmasters instead of the glasspacks now on it). I'll be putting a tranny kewler and oil cooler as well as a better radiatior (maybe a diesel truck radiator?). So what I"m asking is for some suggestions. Now I aint' looking to pull every hp out of it, I'd still like to pass a sniffer test (my truck's an '84, I'm in Texas so a few more years no more emissions test), but with cats, it's not too hard to pass.

Obviously, I'm not doing this tomorrow morning, I'd just like to get started on the saving/parts buying/swap meet shopping stuff. Thanks!

hey. why don't you think about a crate engine from the dealer? 383 that way you get the warrenty with it and then you can just add your extras as you want or need them. just a thought

If your going to build a 383 I don't think you'll have any problem reaching or even exceeding the 400 horse mark, also if it's going in a truck the 383 is the way to go. Good Luck

.....you mentioned $4 g's & gathering parts for the project??? If it were me {although it's not}, I'd save up $3200 and get a GM Crate Motor Short Block 383, part #12499106 {example at sdpc2000.com }. Then I'd save up for the necessary remaining parts, i/e heads, manafold, carb, etc..... GM's 383 crate motor with the parts combo they use puts out something like 460 Ft. Lb's of TQ.... Actually I'd purchace all the misc. parts necessary {heads, manafold, etc} before I got the short block. Buying the short block last means that if you assembled the motor quickly you'd still have some warrentee left when you got the motor running..... Bill

ps, you mentioned 400 RWHP??? Remember that Torque is king on the street. And this is even more true in a truck than a car..... And the factory roller cams & roller lifters that GM runs in these motors are not that expensive....

Yeah, I know that torque matters more, but it's easier to talk to people in HP numbers.

I thought about going with a 383 shortblock from GM, although I'm not too hip on the idea of a Mexican block. Also, I may get out for less than the cost of the shortblock.

Here's what I was thinking: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ctModelId=1674 for the crank and assorted parts.

I could probably trade an old cb750 engine for a useable 350 block.

Maybe some heads like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

It's all somewhat in the air right now and probably block-dependent.

Thanks for all the good replies guys!

Originally Posted by BigRedTrucker

Yeah, I know that torque matters more, but it's easier to talk to people in HP numbers.

I thought about going with a 383 shortblock from GM, although I'm not too hip on the idea of a Mexican block. Also, I may get out for less than the cost of the shortblock.

Here's what I was thinking: http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ctModelId=1674 for the crank and assorted parts.

I could probably trade an old cb750 engine for a useable 350 block.

Maybe some heads like this: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

It's all somewhat in the air right now and probably block-dependent.

Thanks for all the good replies guys!

Rotating assembly looks good.
The 195 cc heads are way to large.
I would look at a cylinder head that has a port volume of 170 cc or less.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

How about them there? It's got a 67 cc chamber which should lower compression, maybe allowing me to run on regular or plus? Maybe you should tell me what to buy lol!

Thanks erik for your help!

Hey, I'm not beyond throwing in my 2 cents worth.....
350 block bored 0.030"
3.750" crank
Brodix heads which Eric recommended
KB-102 pistons with 18 cc dish (9.43:1 static, 8.338:1 dynamic) you can run a little more c.r., both static and dynamic with aluminum heads and have no problem running cat piss pump gas, especially with a tight squish.
pop the piston out of the deck 0.006" to make a squish of 0.035". This shouldn't be a problem with the tight-fitting KB pistons (very little piston rock).
Fel Pro 1003 gasket
Edelbrock Air Gap Performer intake
Rochester Quadrajet
Crane cam ground on 112 LDA
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

I may have a chance to pull the oil pan on a 91 or 92 350. I know it's a one piece rear main seal, might even be a roller motor. Any benefit going with that instead of the 2 piece rear main seal? I can get this assembly http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku which comes balanced unlike the Northern Autoparts kit so if I can clearance the block myself, I should be able to build the shortblock without a machine shop, although I might because they'd have to bore it. I may have to scale my horsepower & torque wants down a bit as I may have to use that th350 in the truck as it is now and not upgrade to a th400 or a really built 700r4. It may have to get built faster than I wanted.

Originally Posted by billlsbird

...you mentioned $4 g's & gathering parts for the project??? If it were me {although it's not}, I'd save up $3200 and get a GM Crate Motor Short Block 383, part #12499106 {example at sdpc2000.com }. Then I'd save up for the necessary remaining parts, i/e heads, manafold, carb, etc...

I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a question. Could you get the 383 short block and put the heads, intake and EFI (all the extras) from my stock 5.7L vortec on it? Would that be compatible?

Keep us informed of your 383 build...I'm keeping an eye on this thread!

BigRed, I think you'd have to put a new throttle body and injectors that are larger to actually get some good performance out of it and maybe get a custom chip. You might try calling one of the chip companies to see what they recommend.

But I have another question, obviously if I run a cam to get my dynamic compression lower, that'll raise gas consumption, so to best maximise fuel mileage is to run a cam that gets my dynamic and static compression ratio closest to each other. That right? So I guess I'm looking for a head that's got a larger combustion chamber to run lower octane gas. . . .