Thread: how to make a 327 turn up.

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i have a 327 i have that i plan on puttin in an s10. Its a 250 horse motor but its bored .40 over with 350 300 horse heads. It is stock other wise. What internals and cam would i need to turn up some rpms and push my s10 down the road.

if i'm not mistaken there's a post in here that i read that covers some of what you need to know about 283 cranks in the 327 block and they turn 10,000.

Is your block a SJ or a LJ 283 crank will only fit the Small Journal block and with 5.7" rods you will have a 302 but i dont know of a piston with the correct pin height maybe KBs.

Originally Posted by WRENCHD

if i'm not mistaken there's a post in here that i read that covers some of what you need to know about 283 cranks in the 327 block and they turn 10,000.

That's 10,000 if you have all the goodies and far from stock parts..
Good 4340 lightweight crank,4340 h-beam rods,forged pistons,good valve springs,valves,retainers,locks.

Originally Posted by WRENCHD

if i'm not mistaken there's a post in here that i read that covers some of what you need to know about 283 cranks in the 327 block and they turn 10,000.

Not a lot of stock block 327's are going to go 10,000 RPM and live long. The valves will float (if you're lucky) at about 7,000 and not allow the engine to rev anywhere near that high. It would seem a lot of the stories on these old 327's have been exaggerated by about 1,000 RPM everytime the story is told!!!! JMO, but it's probably going to take $10,000.00 to rev a sbc to 10,000 RPM and have any sort of reliability.

A more realistic consideration on a street engine is how much torque you can build at lower revs. Making big torque should be the consideraton on a street engine. The high winding engines work great on a road course with a 5 or 6 speed transmission in a light (under 3,000 lbs) car.....

Originally Posted by erik erikson

That's 10,000 if you have all the goodies and far from stock parts..
Good 4340 lightweight crank,4340 h-beam rods,forged pistons,good valve springs,valves,retainers,locks.

Just have some good closed chamber big valve heads with good springs and with a good mechanical cam and pistons, prefferably flat tops to give a dynamic compression ratio of 8.5 to one and thats all you need in the engine department. forget about a 10.000 rpm screamer, thats for the racing guys.

Hopefully those 300 HP 350 heads are closed chamber double bump heads.

some 461's or 462's will-work 194 1.6's 58-64 cc chambers

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

some 461's or 462's will-work 194 1.6's 58-64 cc chambers

I don't think I would knock my-self out looking for casting's that are damn near 40 years old.
Plus you would have to change out all the valve seat's because they are not hardend,next thing you know you have more money in used heads when you could have bought new heads.

yeah ok..... what do i know. besides if it worked then its bound to work now! try finding a set of 186's lately? you cant, know why? people love them! and when you do find them they are $$$....................

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

yeah ok..... what do i know. besides if it worked then its bound to work now! try finding a set of 186's lately? you cant, know why? people love them! and when you do find them they are $$$....................

Better hang onto my 5 untouched sets then

.................... <insert foot in mouth>

With all the aftermarket heads available in most any flow configuration you want there isn't much reason to look at any production head at all,unless you can get them real cheap. Hank

I use double-hump heads on lots of engines, no hardened seats or exotic rebuilds. A good valve job and bolt 'em on. They run for years, then when the seats pound out, sell them to a rebuilder to put seats in them. They last as long as the rest of the GM hand grenade.
If they're just a bit worn, grinding 1.94/1.5 seats out to 2.02/1.60 valves gets another use out of them.
The one time I had seats installed, the inserts were rolling around in the back of the truck when I got home! Glad I didn't get that guy to assemble the heads, I'd have put them on before I realised he wasn't as good a machinist as everybody claimed.

Originally Posted by halftanked

With all the aftermarket heads available in most any flow configuration you want there isn't much reason to look at any production head at all,unless you can get them real cheap. Hank

Very well said.
At least someone got my point.
Why spend money on old heads un-less it is for a numbers matching deal.