Thread: blower on a 400

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is a c.a.l (cat) balancer ok 2 use on my motor,what about 1.5 earson roller rockers are they any good

I use the 817 which has a two bolt main cap, but I have the splayed four bolt main caps installed. The 817 is the strongest block of the three made, it has a higher nickel content and weights another 10 lbs. The 509 is good for about 600 hp. I'm not sure about the 511, but probably 500hp.

If you want to go for more than 750 hp, I would buy an after market block.

Originally Posted by TyphoonZR

I use the 817 which has a two bolt main cap, but I have the splayed four bolt main caps installed. The 817 is the strongest block of the three made, it has a higher nickel content and weights another 10 lbs. The 509 is good for about 600 hp. I'm not sure about the 511, but probably 500hp.

If you want to go for more than 750 hp, I would buy an after market block.

no 450 to 500 is what im tryna reach

Oh, you just want to play a little, well, send me the blower, you don't need it for that amount of hp.

Originally Posted by TyphoonZR

Oh, you just want to play a little, well, send me the blower, you don't need it for that amount of hp.

im thinkin about going with a 385 with the blower pistons and a 76cc head it will put me rite at 8.2.1 comp instead of the 406 with the crazy water jacket and thin walls what do u think

Depends on how tight you are on cash. If you know how to build a 383, then go for it. If you don't... a lot of times the inside of the block has to be ground to fit the bigger crank. I would get this done by a machine shop just to make sure you don't go through a water jacket. You're going to need a Scat 383 crankshaft, which is a 350 journal size but with the 3.75 stroke of the 400. You might as well buy new 5.7 scat rods. And, you're going to need a 383 piston. You might as well go forged on pistons. So all in all, you're probably looking about a $1000 for parts. I'm not sure how much a machine shop would charge for labor to put it together.

For the 400, if you're on a tight budget. Get the ARP rodbolts installed, assuming you have the stock rods. 400 rod bolts are weak. 400 cranks are nodular iron so you'll probably be okay with a small amount of boost. Get a good piston. This setup won't be quite as tough as the 383 but it will be okay for what you are doing and it is a lot cheaper.

Originally Posted by 69elko

Depends on how tight you are on cash. If you know how to build a 383, then go for it. If you don't... a lot of times the inside of the block has to be ground to fit the bigger crank. I would get this done by a machine shop just to make sure you don't go through a water jacket. You're going to need a Scat 383 crankshaft, which is a 350 journal size but with the 3.75 stroke of the 400. You might as well buy new 5.7 scat rods. And, you're going to need a 383 piston. You might as well go forged on pistons. So all in all, you're probably looking about a $1000 for parts. I'm not sure how much a machine shop would charge for labor to put it together.

For the 400, if you're on a tight budget. Get the ARP rodbolts installed, assuming you have the stock rods. 400 rod bolts are weak. 400 cranks are nodular iron so you'll probably be okay with a small amount of boost. Get a good piston. This setup won't be quite as tough as the 383 but it will be okay for what you are doing and it is a lot cheaper.

yeah what im going to do is take my 350 4bolt main to the machine shop and i have a 400 crank already and ima punch it over .40 to a 385 with sum 383 blower pistons from kb with the 200dollar ts1 total seal rings for the forced induction and their going to grind the crank down for about 100bucks or i can get the scat1 like u said and ima sell my 406 block and keep my other 327 block and have a 385 with a super charger i wander how thats going to feel plus ima get that crower cam and lifters set

Originally Posted by young audio

yeah what im going to do is take my 350 4bolt main to the machine shop and i have a 400 crank already and ima punch it over .40 to a 385 with sum 383 blower pistons from kb with the 200dollar ts1 total seal rings for the forced induction and their going to grind the crank down for about 100bucks or i can get the scat1 like u said and ima sell my 406 block and keep my other 327 block and have a 385 with a super charger i wander how thats going to feel plus ima get that crower cam and lifters set

Buy a new crank, that 400 crank is 35 years old+, it just isn't worth turning in my opinion.

You're better off going with Scat, $180 through Summit and they are brand new. Will handle the power better too.

Looks Like I Will Be Buying A New One Then Guys I Cant Beat The Price Anyway

Originally Posted by young audio

Looks Like I Will Be Buying A New One Then Guys I Cant Beat The Price Anyway

You do know that it is a cast steel crank don't you?

Originally Posted by erik erikson

You do know that it is a cast steel crank don't you?

THATS GOOD 4 THE STREET RIGHT

Originally Posted by young audio

THATS GOOD 4 THE STREET RIGHT

I.M.O.,the cast steel crank might be a little questionable for a blown application.
There are some people that make the point that the cast steel is more forgiving and will flex a little before it breaks.
I tend to over kill everything because I don't like any surprise's.
At the very least I would run a crank made from 5140 or 4130 steel.
I would also try and run at the very least a set of 4340 forged i-beam rods.

Originally Posted by erik erikson

I.M.O.,the cast steel crank might be a little questionable for a blown application.
There are some people that make the point that the cast steel is more forgiving and will flex a little before it breaks.
I tend to over kill everything because I don't like any surprise's.
At the very least I would run a crank made from 5140 or 4130 steel.
I would also try and run at the very least a set of 4340 forged i-beam rods.

i have a set of 5140 rods are they good

Originally Posted by young audio

i have a set of 5140 rods are they good

Yes,under 500 hp they are fine when preped correctly with ARP bolts.