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Thread: The best built 350 4 bolt main, oil pan to carb?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Lawton/Ft. Sill, OK
    Car Year, Make, Model: '87 Chev Silverado/'72 Elky
    Posts
    483

    nah, i'll stop here. If you still don't know my point, I'll put it out there in as simple terms as i possibly can.

    Ready? Pay attention now. It's gonna hit you like a brick... Get ready...

    LOTS OF MONEY CAN BE SAVED BY DOING AS MUCH WORK AS YOU CAN BY YOURSELF.

    Polish a crank? 50 bucks? now that calls for your "L.O.L". Try a 3 dollar box of fine grit metal sand paper from o'reilly auto parts and 20 minutes.

    Anyway your claim about $125 dollar valve job amuses me as well. It amuses me because i like to "L.O.L" at you people that live in states where things are actually expensive. Which brings me to my second point.. Ready? Don't want you to miss it again... Here goes...

    PRICE OF ITEMS ALSO DEPENDS ON WHAT PART OF THE COUNTRY YOU LIVE IN.

    I just had a 3 angle valve job done on my cylinder heads and it cost me $60 dollars. I had my block bored and decked. That cost me $165. Broken down: $100 for the deck and $65 for the bore and hone. I had that same block dipped for $35. However, I know you will point this at me saying "SEE!!! MACHINE WORK IS EXPENSIVE!" Here's my comeback before you even say it: This machine work is being done to a FULL RACE engine. On a lesser performance engine such as a daily driver or a friday night special, boring/decking/dipping isn't always necessary. A good head gasket, a 25 dollar honing tool and some industrial solvent will do the same thing.

    Look, I'm not going to admit that I'm wrong simply because I'm not. You're not going to admit that your wrong for your reasons. So let's just call it square and move on.

    Oh, you can stop clinging to your weak arguement of "When was your copy published?" because I bought mine not quite a year ago. It was published in 1999. Just in case you want to know more: I paid $17.46 for it at a Hastings store in my town. Also, just because a book was copywritten in 1978 doesn't mean that it hasn't been updated. Books of this nature are often times updated and republished.

    You can purchase your copy at:

    http://www.allbookstores.com/book/18..._A_Budget.html

    Now move on and pick on someone else. Your not gonna get over on me. I've stepped up and answered every doubt that you have thrown at me. Please just get over it.

    On a side note, I know that I'm putting myself off as a smart ass. But thats because I'm tired, like you, of argueing with someone that won't listen.
    Last edited by Hopper111; 10-12-2006 at 03:45 PM.

  2. #2
    Hopper111 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Lawton/Ft. Sill, OK
    Car Year, Make, Model: '87 Chev Silverado/'72 Elky
    Posts
    483

    Here's another way to prove my point. You can go buy a non running motor from any salvage yard in the country for approximately 100 dollars (give or take a few) Call up City Motor Supply Inc. out of Texas.

    For $825 and that motor that you just paid 100 dollars for, they'll give you a complete motor minus intake and carb. So you can get off your "2000 dollars isn't enough" crock of something or rather and go find another post to argue about. (and no, this city motor supply catalog wasn't published in 1978 like your broken down copy of Vizard's book) (BTW City Motor Supply has been in business since 1943)

    Or

    You can go buy that same engine, strip all the pans and covers off, the cylinder heads off, and the intake off and send the short block to city motor supply and for $495 dollars and your short block, they'll send you their "CMS Race Engine" shortblock. SOOOO 495 + 100 dollars from the motor + a 100 or so in head prepping, and there you go. Turn key motor for 695 dollars. Again please go find something else to argue about. Motors aren't that hard to build for a lesser amount of money. The people that say it can't be done are the ones that buy everything brand new every time even if their used parts are still in perfect working order.
    City Motor Supply sells a "70-79 5.7L 4 bolt main Long block" for "$560 dollars."
    City Motor supply also offers a 383 stroker kit for $899 dollars the includes Cast steel crank, forged pistons, forged race ready rods, moly rings, and main/rod bearings. Buy that kit, put a little money into the block (which the OP says he already has) and go to town. LOOK FOR A DEAL, DON'T JUST BUY IT NEW BECAUSE EVERYONE ELSE DOES.

    I want to apologize to the rest of the forum members for my rant and our arguement. But I'm trying to prove a point because like Erik said, there are kids on here and they need to know the truth. Many kids shy away from the hot rod hobby because they can't afford those high dollar engines and the trend nowadays is to buy everything new and assemble it. These kids can't afford that and need someone to show and tell them how to do some things themselves to save some money.
    Last edited by Hopper111; 10-12-2006 at 04:17 PM.

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