Thread: 350 2 bolt main...worth it?

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I have access to a 350 with 2 bolt mains for $100. The engine is partially disassembled, but has all the parts to assemble a long block. The crank is bad, but that doesn't matter...I want to stroke it anyways.

My question is this: Is a 2 bolt main block good for stroking to 383? Will I need the added strength of 4 bolt mains or not? Thanks.

IMHO.... and the opinion of my very respected machine shop....

the 2 bolt vs 4 bolt argument is overblown.....
A 2 bolt is fine for all but the most radical street engines....

the price is just OK... the last 2 I bought were $100 and $150, still together with accessories and good cranks....

Originally Posted by BigRed

I have access to a 350 with 2 bolt mains for $100. The engine is partially disassembled, but has all the parts to assemble a long block. The crank is bad, but that doesn't matter...I want to stroke it anyways.

My question is this: Is a 2 bolt main block good for stroking to 383? Will I need the added strength of 4 bolt mains or not? Thanks.

If you are worried about install ARP studs.
I would keep the horsepower 475 or under.

You can also have a machine shop convertyour 2 bolt block to 4 bolt splayed mains if you are unsure. A main girddle also goes a long way in strengthening your bottom end.

I've also been told that I can put in a 327 crank and have a large journal 327...would this be good for reliability/economy?

What will this motor go into when completed and what is the intended use?

I have nothing to put it in at this time. For the 327 idea...eventually, I'd like to find a decent late 60's Chevelle with no engine to put it in for my daughter. I have time, as she's only 3 right now!!

If it's going into a car for my girl, I don't want it to have any power but be very reliable. That's the goal for that motor.

If I go the 383 route, it would replace the current engine in my '97 C1500 if/when the motor goes bad. I would (hopefully) put the top end of my Vortec on the 383 short block and go from there...

Which of my two plans is stupid...if not both...???

Well........... At least I can say you are thinking ahead. Just dont wait to long to buy that Chevelle, because thay are getting fewer every day. And as was recenly pointed out on another post.... Think Keeper.
Oh and I think it is a very good idea to have a father/daughter project.

put it in my 63 Chevy Truck I am about to put up for sell.... go the 383 route for power though. I would build a streetable and reliable 350 if it were me and eventually gonna be for my daughter. Reliable being key note.

Originally Posted by southerner

Well........... At least I can say you are thinking ahead. Just dont wait to long to buy that Chevelle, because thay are getting fewer every day. And as was recenly pointed out on another post.... Think Keeper.

Finding a decent Chevelle now is a pain...you guys have any ideas on where to look online? '69 Chevelle, '67 Camaro/Firebird...that type of car!

Originally Posted by southerner

Oh and I think it is a very good idea to have a father/daughter project.

Me too. I can't wait until she's able to come help me with stuff. She loves being in my shop already and anytime I'm out there, she's begging mom to bring her out. YES!! I got her!

Eventually, she'll pick out the colors...interior, exterior...whatever she wants. I figure it will be fun to watch her drive her hot pink car that she designed as a 12 year old!

I have proof in the shed that two bolt mains do not make good stroker engines. My block has 1200 miles on it and shows bad cap walk. Studs do not fix the problem. It was not a high hp/rpm motor either. The problem is the registers where the caps fit do not have enough clamping area to control the extra throw of the larger crank. If you keep it stock stroke or destroked, it should be o.k. If you were to stroke a two bolt block, keep it under 375hp and 5500 rpm. As for pricing, I pay 100-150 for 4 bolt blocks.




http://www.chevelles.com/forums/show...light=cap+walk

Originally Posted by camaro_fever68

I have proof in the shed that two bolt mains do not make good stroker engines. My block has 1200 miles on it and shows bad cap walk. Studs do not fix the problem. It was not a high hp/rpm motor either. The problem is the registers where the caps fit do not have enough clamping area to control the extra throw of the larger crank. If you keep it stock stroke or destroked, it should be o.k. If you were to stroke a two bolt block, keep it under 375hp and 5500 rpm. As for pricing, I pay 100-150 for 4 bolt blocks.

Maybe your caps where loose to begin with.
Did it need line honed,line-bored?
You are right studs won't always fix the problem but they do lower the chance of having a fastner break.
You already know how bad I hate the 400 blocks.
We still have a 377 that is a 2-bolt main with an ARP stud kit in it we run on the very small 1/3 mile track.
That track goes "dry slick" after about 3 laps and the 377 will see 7,800+ rpm's very quickly.
Keep in mind this engine is 13.5 to 1.
We just pulled it down and it had about 20 nights on it.
The caps where still very tight.
IMO very few of the street cars out there really need a 4-bolt main.

Erik, look at the register on a 2 bolt 350 and then look on a 400. The 400 is much bigger which gives it a lot more clamping area to hold the cap. Big blocks are the same way. If the smaller blocks would have had a bigger register, they would be o.k. too.

[QUOTE=camaro_fever68]Erik, look at the register on a 2 bolt 350 and then look on a 400. The 400 is much bigger which gives it a lot more clamping area to hold the cap. Big blocks are the same way. If the smaller blocks would have had a bigger register, they would be o.k. too.[/QUOTE This is true.
I don't think I would get rid of a 2-bolt block if the hp was 475 or less.
In a street car I don't think you could "shock load" it bad enough to really even loosen the caps unless you had a really loose stall or sticky drag radials.
Another option is get the block buy some cheap spayed caps have them line bore the block and away you go.

[/QUOTE]Another option is get the block buy some cheap spayed caps have them line bore the block and away you go.[/QUOTE]

This is the better/stronger 4-bolt. I think there are some splayed caps that you can drill and tap yourself. You will need line bore the block with the caps. You also have to line bore if you use studs. By the time you do all this to build a stroker, you might as well look for a 4-bolt to start with IMO.