Thread: Sb Chevy Valve Cover Gaskets
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10-15-2006 06:19 PM #1
Sb Chevy Valve Cover Gaskets
Anyone had good success with any particular valve cover gasket ?
Thanks.
dnmcduffie@yahoo.com
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10-15-2006 06:35 PM #2
Originally Posted by larietrope
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10-15-2006 06:43 PM #3
Jack
Gone to Texas
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04-20-2007 10:33 AM #4
Rubber works on this engine. black silicone and rubber "o" ring on the stud base, Valve covers are buttoned down using 5/16x1-1/4" set screws as studs, flat washers and nuts.
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04-20-2007 10:56 AM #5
If you're using sheet metal covers (chrome or plain), Don't forget to "peen" the bolt holes a bit. In other words, use a ball peen hammer to SLIGHTLY peen back the bolt holes for better load application. Don't ever be afraid of Load spreaders either. The bars from OEM or aftermarket suppliers are very good.Last edited by nitrowarrior; 04-20-2007 at 12:17 PM.
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04-20-2007 01:58 PM #6
I like to use alot of different sealants on things{I do not like leaks}so I sacrifice the convenience of dissasembly for better sealing qualities.
What I did on my valve covers was to prepare the surface of the valve covers for sealant,cleaned and ruffed up with some 220 grit emery cloth.
I then applied a thin,but ample amount,of silicone sealant to the gaskett and valve cover,then carefully put the gaskett into place,peel it back apart to check that there is a good seal all the way around and to give the silicone some air to help it dry faster.Then re-apply the gaskett and use the head as a holder,tighten the valve cover back on head to help set gaskett in place.I then allow this to cure for 24 to 48 hrs soo the gaskett becomes one with the valve cover,then I take it back off cleaning all the mating surfaces of the head and gaskett with acetone or similar evaperating cleaner that leaves no residue.Then I apply the gaskett shelac or avaition sealant{theres many terms for this product}to the head and bottom of valve cover gaskett and once again put it back on the head getting everything in position and snug the bolts down and remove the cover once again to check that the seal is good and to let the sealant breath a little to help it dry faster.Then I install the valve cover for the last time ...{literially} and snug the bolts down to about 1/2 of what I will finally tighten them to and let that sit for a few hours....then go back and tighten the bolts all the way to spec or a tad tighter.The last step is to use a rag ,q-tip or other device with some acetone to wipe the excess sealants up that have oozed out .
Thats it your all done.....will not leak........... .but.............when you attempt to get them back off ,things will be stuck quite good soo what I do is to try to seperate the valve cover from the gaskett,leaving it stuck to head and if you used some type of good rubber or even cork you can clean it back up real good and re-install .....if your lucky,....if not you will have to spend some time getting both surfaces clean again and purchase a new gaskett...............................but it will not leakLast edited by shawnlee28; 04-20-2007 at 02:00 PM.
Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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04-20-2007 02:20 PM #7
Originally Posted by DennyW
That's the way I was brung up as well.
KitzJon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400
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04-20-2007 02:54 PM #8
I will have to check out the yeller stuff I am always on the hunt for more sealants to add to my arsenal......Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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04-20-2007 03:08 PM #9
I was told to call it "YELLOW DEATH". When I was 10 years old my Dad always called it that. One day I opened my mouth and asked why. He then handed me a pair of valve covers off of a 292 T-Bird and said, "Here, get these gaskets off and make sure it's clean to the metal". From that moment on, I knew what "YELLOW DEATH" meant.
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04-20-2007 04:04 PM #10
3M Weather Strip Adhesive (yellow snot) is also available
in black now and it isnt as obvious looking when some oozes
out. Works just as well and is just as messy.
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04-20-2007 04:40 PM #11
Gentlemen.... I have a couple of sons that need the lesson of learning of how to remove it. Don't let out my secrets....this is gonna be good (I'll be darned if I'm the only one that goes down in a blaze of humiliation)
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04-20-2007 04:49 PM #12
Wait a minute....how many knuckles do you think a human has? My boys look at this forum to cheat...I'm not letting the cat out of the bag until they come to me and ask. Besides, they hate using their hands unless it's for video games.....LMAO.
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04-20-2007 04:50 PM #13
By the way....my boys are getting the idea of a shovel, broom, and weed whacker handle fits all.....Ain't that somethin'? OOPS, did I mention MOP handle?.....LOL...LOL
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04-23-2007 10:16 AM #14
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...L&autoview=sku
I bought these gaskets 3 years ago for my Circle track car. Before them i was getting leaks, and blowing gaskets out. They are expensive, but have been on 2 different motors and i do not even worry about that anymore.
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04-23-2007 11:47 AM #15
Alot of the ford mustang 5.0 motors came with those metal and rubber gasketts.They work very well.Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)
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