Thread: Engine Break In

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Originally Posted by DennyW

I just looked, just adding info, and they do list them.

http://www.rhoadslifters.com/

((The valves adjust with no up and down movement plus one half turn(per Rhodes) which is a little different from hydraulic lifters.))

Not really. 95% of hydraulic lifters adjust that very way

Denny;I was under the impression most hydraulic valves are adjusted by turning or rotating the rod and not up and down.I could easily turn the rod after taking the up and down motion out.

Don In Austin

Originally Posted by 76GMC1500

But you have to look at the surface finish on the cylinder walls. Moly rings use a very fine hone grit and there is very little wearing in to be done on the cylinder walls.

The Moly,Plasma moly,Chromium Nitrided,Gas Nitrided,Titanium Nitrided rings will still take much longer to seat compared to a stock style cast ring.
All these listed are a very hard material and will take some time to seat.
In one of our IMCA mod. engines which turns 7,500 + and has over 13 to 1 comp. ratio we have had rings that have taken three or more nights to seat.
This is about like running a drag car half a season.
There are many varibles such as cylinder finish,cross hatch, the type of oil used,additives etc.

Originally Posted by Don Dalton

"What is a good break in procedure on a performance engine with 450 hp,700r4, 3.70 gears,no lock out,and 750 cfm holley???"

Don in Austin

.....Drive it like you stole it ...... zzz

The rings don't wear, just the cylinder walls. Just because the rings are hard doesn't mean they are slow to break-in because the rings themselves don't really break-in.

Originally Posted by 76GMC1500

The rings don't wear, just the cylinder walls. Just because the rings are hard doesn't mean they are slow to break-in because the rings themselves don't really break-in.

If you look at the cylinder walls under magnafiaction you will see peaks and valley's the whole idea is to have these surface's mate together over time this is how you get good ring seal and build horsepower.

The initial start-up at 2000-2500 rpm idle for 20 minutes is for breaking in the cam. The rings also need to be set. I like the break in procedure that came with my ZZ502 (hydraulic roller engine). In summary,

1) Start and set timing, check for leaks etc
2) Drive for 30 miles. During the first 30 miles no full throttle romps or continuous throttle prolonged runs. Do 5-6 half-throttle accels to 60 mph letting off in gear each time down to 20-30 mph. Do 5-6 3/4 throttle runs to 60 mph letting off the throttle each time in gear.
3) Change oil, retorque heads (good idea for all aluminum head engines)
4) Drive normally for 500 miles. No full throttle runs and no prolonged runs at the same rpm.
5) Change oil
6) Engine is now ready to rock and roll!

The first 30 miles is really designed to set the rings. The next 500 breaks in the rings and cylinder bores. Makes some sense to me ............

Kitz

Originally Posted by DennyW

That is the proper procedure.

Thanks to all that responded I'll keep you posted.

Thanks

Don In Austin