Thread: Engine Break In

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I have just finished the build on my coupe and have tuned and finally got the right carb. set up.I have put about 15 (easy)Mi. in the neighbor hood.What is a good break in procedure on a performance engine with 450 hp,700r4, 3.70 gears,no lock out,and 750 cfm holley.

Don in Austin

i dont know if its right, but ive always been told to break it in the way you normally drive

Stop and go driving isn't the best thing for a new engine. Take it out on the highway for a cruise. No extended idling, and alternate pulling and coasting for 500 miles or so.

Originally Posted by Don Dalton

I have just finished the build on my coupe and have tuned and finally got the right carb. set up.I have put about 15 (easy)Mi. in the neighbor hood.What is a good break in procedure on a performance engine with 450 hp,700r4, 3.70 gears,no lock out,and 750 cfm holley.

Don in Austin

I would try to vary the rpm's.
To change the oil splash.
In other words cruise at 50 mph in 3rd gear for a few miles and then shift into over drive and run it down the interstate at 70 mph.
Watch your engine temp and don't tow and advoid extended idleling.
If you have not changed your oil and filter I would to get rid of the cam lube,bearing guard etc.
I would not use a heavy weight oil at first I would try to use a 10w 30 or a 5w 30 to make sure the oil gets there quicker.
After about 5,000 miles I would run what ever you want for oil weight.
Keep in mind if it has moly or plasma moly rings it will take a long time to get the rings to seat.

What do you mean by "no lock out?" Converter with no lock up? If so, how do you control overheating the trans in OD?

The most important thing is to keep the revs up, 2000-2500 rpm for the first 30 minutes of run time to keep plenty of oil flowing to the cam. The rest of the break-in depends on the rings you used. Chrome rings take the longest to break in, followed by ductile iron. Moly rings break in the most quickly. If you used moly rings, it will take about 300-500 miles for the full break-in. Change the oil at 500 miles or so, I waited until 1200 to change my oil. It's not really a big deal. Most new engine oils carry an API SM grade. The new generation of SM oils doesn't have the zinc additives that flat tappet cams need to survive. The only SL oils still for sale are the heavy duty oils for diesel engines like Chevron Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. It might be a good idea to run Delo 400 15w40 for your initial break-in. If not, your GM dealer sells an oil supplement with zinc for flat tappet cams. I broke my engine in on Castrol 10w30, an SM oil. This isn't that big of a deal, either.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

What do you mean by "no lock out?" Converter with no lock up? If so, how do you control overheating the trans in OD?

I am presently running the transmission with out lock up (sorry) and cooling thru the radiator. Is this a problem?

Don In Austin

Originally Posted by 76GMC1500

The most important thing is to keep the revs up, 2000-2500 rpm for the first 30 minutes of run time to keep plenty of oil flowing to the cam. The rest of the break-in depends on the rings you used. Chrome rings take the longest to break in, followed by ductile iron. Moly rings break in the most quickly. If you used moly rings, it will take about 300-500 miles for the full break-in. Change the oil at 500 miles or so, I waited until 1200 to change my oil. It's not really a big deal. Most new engine oils carry an API SM grade. The new generation of SM oils doesn't have the zinc additives that flat tappet cams need to survive. The only SL oils still for sale are the heavy duty oils for diesel engines like Chevron Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. It might be a good idea to run Delo 400 15w40 for your initial break-in. If not, your GM dealer sells an oil supplement with zinc for flat tappet cams. I broke my engine in on Castrol 10w30, an SM oil. This isn't that big of a deal, either.

I am using Pennzoil 10w 40w.I have changed the oil twice already (carb leak problem previous thread) and after about 15 min.running the second time.I now have about 12 Mi. on the 3rd oil.The pistons are KB hypereutectic T 6 Alloy.Rings I don't have a clue as I purchased the engine from a guy here in Austin.The engine was built in Nashville ,Tn by Tony Sizemore
a NASCAR affiliate(I hope) whom I have not been able to locate ,any how the engine appears to be strong,I might have it Dyno checked. What do you think?
Don In Austin

Running a 700-R4 in overdrive with no lockup is a big heat generator, and can cause early transmission failure. That's why the lockup is there - other than to increase mileage. This is especially important with high HP engines and increased stall converters. Check with whoever built/supplied your trans about what to do.

Some trans suppliers won't warranty a performance R4 unless there's both a radiator tank cooler and an auxiliary cooler - although most people seem to get buy with just the auxiliary cooler.

Seriously, check it out.

Is it a roller cam or a standard hydraulic. Roller cam motors are much easier to break in. Little worry about lobe wipe-out.

The first 20 minutes of run time is to break in the cam. The rest of the time is for the cylinders. There should be no break-in required on the bearings. You'll know when your cylinders are broken in when the engine stops burning oil. I burnt a quart within the first 1200 miles, I haven't burnt a drop since with over 12,000 miles on the engine. I am doing oil changes on conventional oil at 5000-6000 miles (mostly highway).

Originally Posted by 76GMC1500

The most important thing is to keep the revs up, 2000-2500 rpm for the first 30 minutes of run time to keep plenty of oil flowing to the cam. The rest of the break-in depends on the rings you used. Chrome rings take the longest to break in, followed by ductile iron. Moly rings break in the most quickly. If you used moly rings, it will take about 300-500 miles for the full break-in. Change the oil at 500 miles or so, I waited until 1200 to change my oil. It's not really a big deal. Most new engine oils carry an API SM grade. The new generation of SM oils doesn't have the zinc additives that flat tappet cams need to survive. The only SL oils still for sale are the heavy duty oils for diesel engines like Chevron Delo 400 and Shell Rotella. It might be a good idea to run Delo 400 15w40 for your initial break-in. If not, your GM dealer sells an oil supplement with zinc for flat tappet cams. I broke my engine in on Castrol 10w30, an SM oil. This isn't that big of a deal, either.

The Titanium Nitride or the Plasma moly rings are harder than the Chromium Nitride rings.

But you have to look at the surface finish on the cylinder walls. Moly rings use a very fine hone grit and there is very little wearing in to be done on the cylinder walls.

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Is it a roller cam or a standard hydraulic. Roller cam motors are much easier to break in. Little worry about lobe wipe-out.

It's has roller rockers and Rhoads Lifters(indexed lifter ports) as I did not get a card with the cam I can only guess it is a Roller cam.AS I stated earlier until I tear this engine down I can only guess as the original builder ,I have not been able to find.The engine appears to run strong.l'll know more after break in.The valves adjust with no up and down movement plus one half turn(per Rhodes) which is a little different from hydraulic lifters.

Don In Austin

With Rhoads lifters, I doubt it is a roller cam. I don't believe they make roller lifters.