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10-25-2006 07:05 PM #16
Well, I went out and messed witht the carb a little more. This time, after loosening and tightening the bowl in hopes of shaking loose the float, something changed. Fuel no longer came out of the vent, but it still ran down into the carb when the fuel pump came on.
I didn't try to start it. I wanted to ask you guys what you thought first.
Since I have a bit of a fever, switching on the Edelbrock from my other ride will have to wait a day or two.
Thanks again for all the great advice, everyone. It sounds like I need to rebuild this bad boy. I don't know squat about the internals of a carb, but I am here to learn!Saxman
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10-26-2006 04:21 AM #17
before you start it CHECK YOUR OIL!!! IF YOU SMELL GAS IN THE OIL CHANGE IT BEFORE YOU START MOTOR. YOU CAN WIPE OUT CAM BEARINGS VERY EASY BECAUSE THE FUEL NO ONLY DILUTES THE OIL & DECREASES LUBRICATION ABILITY BUT WILL WASH OUT ASSEMBLY / CAM LUBE REAL QUICK & YOU CAN SCREW UP NEW MOTOR BIG TIME. 31 5w
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10-26-2006 07:58 AM #18
Hydra Lock
I would also take all the plugs out of the engine and spin it over to pump out an excess gas out of the cylinders.
Make sure you disconnect the coil wire from the distributor.
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10-26-2006 01:04 PM #19
It sounds like a possible sticking float, or sinking. The needles might not be in the seats properly. They might have some pieces of dirt or something on them keeping them from closing.
I had a really old and troublesome 750 and one way I would dislodge a stuck float would be to open up the sight plug and lightly jiggle it with a small screwdriver. Be very careful doing this on a hot engine with the bowls overfull. Boiling gas can be dangerous.
Something else that hasn't been mentioned is your fuel pressure. You might just be blowing the needles off of their seats with excessive pressure.
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10-26-2006 02:25 PM #20
Originally Posted by erik erikson
Also, on the fuel in the oil thing: Everything back there smells like gas right now, so I don't know if I could detect it in the oil specifically. I just put new oil in before the intake went on and planned to replace it after the first startup because of the coolant that got in the system before I tore it down. I guess I might as well change it now...Saxman
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10-26-2006 02:28 PM #21
Originally Posted by pelligrini
Is the sight plug covered with a screw? I need to learn more about carbs, that's for sure. Tapping it with a hammer didn't seem to move the float (if that is the problem), so I will just take it all off and put my Edelbrock 650 on while it is torn down and rebuilt.
What's a rebuild kit cost these days?Saxman
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10-26-2006 02:29 PM #22
Originally Posted by 31 5w
I'll check it, though. Thanks!Saxman
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10-26-2006 02:46 PM #23
Originally Posted by Saxman
You might just have the levels set up too high. See Poncho's earlier post on how to adjust them.
There's a whole lot of info on Holley's tech library.
http://www.holley.com/TechService/Library.asp
Last time I got a rebuild kit for my old 4010 I think it was around $40-50.
Summit or Jegs can give you a more accurate price.
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Getting closer on this project. What a lot of work!
Stude M5 build