Thread: Timing Belt

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Okay I know this is totally not a Chevy question but lets treat it as such.
I have a Mazda Millenia S from my parents to put the 66 Impala on project status. The Mazda needs a timing belt change. Just think of it as a blower belt because well. It's on a blower and it keeps the engine in time. SO.

The question is what should I look for in a belt? I see that some belts are described as "Highly Saturated Nitrile". And some are just OE replacement.

Can anyone tell me the difference?

I want super-durability so I don't have to do this again for a very long time.

the oem belt will be ok. "Highly Saturated Nitrile" just means it will operate in oil longer. probaly cost a lot more also.

You're right about that LT1S10 >_> It's at least double the cost of OEM spec.

Now if you can tell me how to dismantle the engine bay on one of these damned new cars. Why can't everything be simple like a hotrod? Fuel Economy? Performance? All can be had with a small-block-anything.

Originally Posted by Crowbie

You're right about that LT1S10 >_> It's at least double the cost of OEM spec.

Now if you can tell me how to dismantle the engine bay on one of these damned new cars. Why can't everything be simple like a hotrod? Fuel Economy? Performance? All can be had with a small-block-anything.

never changed one myself. but if i was you, i'd find some info on it before i started. you get it out of time, and you will be in trouble.

My cousin said the same thing. It's an interference motor soooo in other words if it's out of time. Boom. Valves smashed, pistons destroyed, etc etc. I'm trying to find a damned chilton's book on it but no one stocks them around town.. it's got 78,000 on the motor and the belt's never been changed. I had someone look at it with a mirror, said it had cracks, not deep ones but it's cracked nonetheless. So. I need a book NOW.

Best thing to do is get a shop manual specific to your car, preferraby published by Mazda, and not a third party. That will provide you not only how to info, but all specs (like torque) and tools needed. You will need something to lock down the camshaft(s) so they don't move when replacing the belt. If your water pump is located under the cover with your belt, you probably should replace it as well so you won't have to tear the engine apart a second time to replace it. (Standard procedure on Honda's, don't know about Mazda's). I have done the job on a Suziki Tracker twice, not a major job on that vehicle, and once on a Subie, again not a major job. Neither of those vehicles required replacement until over 100k miles.

With a little skill you should be able to get it done in a few hours.

Originally Posted by mopar34

Best thing to do is get a shop manual specific to your car, preferraby published by Mazda, and not a third party... You will need something to lock down the camshaft(s) so they don't move when replacing the belt ... Neither of those vehicles required replacement until over 100k miles.

With a little skill you should be able to get it done in a few hours.

I'm sure I can. It's just a matter of getting the book. I just ordered a chilton's manual. I'm sure chilton will instruct me on what to do >_>

I don't understand the whole idea behind holding the camshaft down. if the camshafts on top of the valves and the valve springs keep pressure on the cam.. why should it move? or is it more complicated than that in a DOHC motor? >_>

mark the pulleys at least with corresponding marks on the block so you can make sure everything is RIGHT where it was before.

depending on spring presurres and cam positions the cams will want to roll a degree or so when you take the belt off.... a degree or so wont be enough to cause a trainwreck, but it definately wont run as well.... and yes that car is a pain in the bum.... i've done a few in the shop.... takes me about an hour and a half to 2 hours to get the job done.... but it pays 5

HOW do you block them from moving? How did you do it Thesals?

i get everything taken apart and ready to go except for the belt taken off and then i get a lube tech to use a prybar to hold the pulleys in place while i slip the new belt on

Ah! So you have the guy hold the cam gears in place (provided you marked them with chalk or some metal marker for reference in case the cams DO move) with a metal bar that is just the right length to fit in between the gear teeth to hold them and all you do is slip on the Belt after moving the tensioner? I'm sure the Chilton book that's in the mail will tell me something similar for a Do-It-Yourselfer like you and I.

Thank you, you've been a real help to me

find out if the engine is an interference engine first, if it is, pull the head off and check for cracked pistions/ head and bent valve, you will find somthing broke, only if it is interference

Originally Posted by Crowbie

Ah! So you have the guy hold the cam gears in place (provided you marked them with chalk or some metal marker for reference in case the cams DO move) with a metal bar that is just the right length to fit in between the gear teeth to hold them and all you do is slip on the Belt after moving the tensioner? I'm sure the Chilton book that's in the mail will tell me something similar for a Do-It-Yourselfer like you and I.

Thank you, you've been a real help to me

correct you are my friend... snap-on makes a tool that locks DOHC cams in place but my rep said it was like 400 somethin dollars and i didn't want any part of that.... my prybar works just as good

Originally Posted by Matt167

find out if the engine is an interference engine first, if it is, pull the head off and check for cracked pistions/ head and bent valve, you will find somthing broke, only if it is interference

It is interference but it isn't broken.. yet. I'm just trying to get the Timing belt, all other belts, and a waterpump replaced so I don't have to do it later down the road.