Thread: Timing Belt
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12-22-2006 01:59 PM #1
Timing Belt
Okay I know this is totally not a Chevy question but lets treat it as such.
I have a Mazda Millenia S from my parents to put the 66 Impala on project status. The Mazda needs a timing belt change. Just think of it as a blower belt because well. It's on a blower and it keeps the engine in time. SO.
The question is what should I look for in a belt? I see that some belts are described as "Highly Saturated Nitrile". And some are just OE replacement.
Can anyone tell me the difference?
I want super-durability so I don't have to do this again for a very long time.
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12-22-2006 02:18 PM #2
the oem belt will be ok."Highly Saturated Nitrile" just means it will operate in oil longer. probaly cost a lot more also.
Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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12-22-2006 03:15 PM #3
You're right about that LT1S10 >_> It's at least double the cost of OEM spec.
Now if you can tell me how to dismantle the engine bay on one of these damned new cars. Why can't everything be simple like a hotrod? Fuel Economy? Performance? All can be had with a small-block-anything.
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12-22-2006 03:19 PM #4
Originally Posted by Crowbie
Mike
check my home page out!!!
http://hometown.aol.com/kanhandco2/index.html
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12-22-2006 03:29 PM #5
My cousin said the same thing. It's an interference motor soooo in other words if it's out of time. Boom. Valves smashed, pistons destroyed, etc etc. I'm trying to find a damned chilton's book on it but no one stocks them around town.. it's got 78,000 on the motor and the belt's never been changed. I had someone look at it with a mirror, said it had cracks, not deep ones but it's cracked nonetheless. So. I need a book NOW.
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12-22-2006 04:27 PM #6
Best thing to do is get a shop manual specific to your car, preferraby published by Mazda, and not a third party. That will provide you not only how to info, but all specs (like torque) and tools needed. You will need something to lock down the camshaft(s) so they don't move when replacing the belt. If your water pump is located under the cover with your belt, you probably should replace it as well so you won't have to tear the engine apart a second time to replace it. (Standard procedure on Honda's, don't know about Mazda's). I have done the job on a Suziki Tracker twice, not a major job on that vehicle, and once on a Subie, again not a major job. Neither of those vehicles required replacement until over 100k miles.
With a little skill you should be able to get it done in a few hours.
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12-23-2006 04:34 PM #7
find out if the engine is an interference engine first, if it is, pull the head off and check for cracked pistions/ head and bent valve, you will find somthing broke, only if it is interferenceYou don't know what you've got til it's gone
Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver
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1930's styled hand built ratrod project
1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold
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12-23-2006 06:30 PM #8
Originally Posted by Matt167
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12-23-2006 07:40 PM #9
Originally Posted by Matt167
I am very sad to post that Mike Frade, Screen Name 34_40, passed away suddenly yesterday, April 4th, 2025, at home in New Mexico. Mike's wife Christine shared that Mike had come in from working in...
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