Thread: 383 Question

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Can somebody answer a couple of questions on the 383 build? (1) If you use the std. 5.7 rod as some 383 kits say you can use, why do some offer a 6.0 rod? (2) Internal or external balance? (3) is there a publication out for strictly building the 383. I would like to put one together, as I have heard they are basically stright forward, but like anything else there are always a few twists to figure out. P.S. in a shameless display of not using the right forum, Im still looking for a set of camel humps. Have ya'll checked out my truck yet? Livin proof you can work with a deficit budget.

I have a set of bare 462 camel hump heads. They were cast in '66. Email me if you're interested. firehawk108@msn.com

I just read the "406" thread and got up on the 5.7, 6.0 rod thing. But of course that opens a new question, which is preferable the 5.7 or 6.0 setup? Can anyone tell I'm a little confused on this one?

http://www.rustpuppy.org/rodstudy.htm Never mind I just read this. Consider me enlightened!

Originally Posted by jimmyjeep

http://www.rustpuppy.org/rodstudy.htm Never mind I just read this. Consider me enlightened!

Thanks very much for the link Jimmy. Here's a link to a thread on CHR in which I copied and pasted a paper by Ron Iskenderian, son of the famous "Cam Father", Ed Iskenderian. See post number 4 on this thread:

http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/sho...threadid=17874

Originally Posted by jimmyjeep

Can somebody answer a couple of questions on the 383 build? (1) If you use the std. 5.7 rod as some 383 kits say you can use, why do some offer a 6.0 rod? (2) Internal or external balance? (3) is there a publication out for strictly building the 383. I would like to put one together, as I have heard they are basically stright forward, but like anything else there are always a few twists to figure out. P.S. in a shameless display of not using the right forum, Im still looking for a set of camel humps. Have ya'll checked out my truck yet? Livin proof you can work with a deficit budget.

Are you going to $hit loads more hp, no,but what if you picked up 3-5 hp and no one else had it?
It may mean the difference of winning and loosing a race.
One thing to remember is if you buy aftermarket rods the 6.0 is the same price as the 5.7.
Another area that is often overlooked is the ring sealing ability.
In our dyno testing we have found the rings to last longer and seal better.
I also know when I use to play a lot with the old n2o the longer rod engines seemed to make more power.
This was back in the early 90's.
Was it because the piston dwelled longer at TDC and lit everything off better or was it because of the rod angle making the rings seal better?.
IMO, I would always try and run the longest rod until it gets to close to the 2nd compression ring.
All my circle track drivers "swear" the longer rod engine is much more forgiving off the corners and make a much smoother powerband.
If you really want to look at a long rod look at the 408/418 stroker SBF engines.
With a 6.20 rod and a symetrical intake port the 418 SBF really make some of the SBC guy's a little nervious.

I have a set of 041 heads with accesory holes ,58cc if needed they have been ported and polished also .

pm'd ya on the heads.

Good post, Richard. Answers a lot of questions. Of course everyone will have to come to their own conclusions. As for me it is pretty clear for street rodding.

Ed