Thread: Roller rockers
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02-09-2007 08:42 PM #16
when it comes to chevy's he definately is the man.... when it comes to fords... he refuses to give positive commentsjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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02-09-2007 09:02 PM #17
well ya can't blame him for his taste.........."oohh...thats gonna leave a mark!"
1997 s-10, 357 C.I., 350 turbo, speedpro 11:1,Comp Cam custom grind mech. roller, Canfield heads, 1.6 roller rockers, edelbrock tm-1, holley 750sp, Hooker Headers, MSD, 3K B&M stall, 4:11 gears
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02-09-2007 09:11 PM #18
i have had to work on fords hey i needed the money
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02-09-2007 09:23 PM #19
just like i've had to work an jags, needed the money.... but i made sure the customer understood, theres no such thing as a warranty on any work done on older jaguarsjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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02-09-2007 09:31 PM #20
is there enough money to work on a old jag? i work on one had a chevy V8 in it made headers for it
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02-09-2007 09:39 PM #21
i did a tune up/ oil change / tires / allignment on one that had the factory motor and it didn't break down the whole time i was working on it.... it only had 12,000 miles on it.... if you dont count the tow trucks odometer toojust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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02-09-2007 09:43 PM #22
they said you needed two jags one to drive while the other one was in the shop or just one chevy
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02-09-2007 09:52 PM #23
Originally Posted by pat mccarthyYesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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02-09-2007 09:55 PM #24
ok just trying to help dave
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02-21-2007 01:48 PM #25
Hi jimmy,
basically, your screw-in studs are for when you want to use strong valve springs. The springs can be so hard they actually pull out the normal press-in studs, esp with 1.6s. I haven't heard of normal studs coming out in a mild street motor.
Guide-plates were invented for use with aluminum heads (at least that's what I heard), so the steel pushrods don't eat the softer alum. Many people put them in engines to minimize wear and it keeps the pushrods straight and lines up the rockers nicely. I wouldn't use either screw-in studs or guide plates in anything under about 300 horses if it costs me money to have them put in. Depending slightly on the rev-range you're going to work in, higher revs might warrant the screw-in studs. I've heard that 1.6s on the exhaust free up a bit of torque in the low end, combined with headers in any case they're a step towards new tires more often
I wouldn't think twice if it was a mild rebuild, I would stay 1.5/1.5, stay press-in, go without guide plates and invest my money in intake/cam/exhaust.
Wish your wife a lot of fun with her "surprise" ,
MaxHarharhar...
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02-21-2007 03:45 PM #26
i personally have run into studs pulling out on mild motors.... its usually with old heads with even just a mild cam, specially with stock rockers though, because the slot in the rocker was designed for a standard lift cam, add a little extra lift and the end of the slot pushes against the stud in an upward motion which slowly pulls it outjust because your car is faster, doesn't mean i cant outdrive you... give me a curvy mountain road and i'll beat you any day
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02-21-2007 03:57 PM #27
I was assuming they don't pull out if nothing else is wrong. Of course a too short slot can pull them out and a cracked tower can be the cause of one becoming loose, too. But I've never seen one being pulld out on a healthy head with near stock components.
MaxHarharhar...
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