Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Considering putting a blower on my 406 - have a few questions!
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Arrow Considering putting a blower on my 406 - have a few questions!

     



    Well i have a 400 .060 over right now. cast crank, re-conditioned 5.7 rods with arp bolts, speed pro hyperutectic pistons, vortec iron heads with 1.94 1.50's. runnin a lunati hyrd cam. All balanced. Alright so thats what im working with.
    I'm considering a blower, but im wondering how well it will bolt up to the vortecs, whether there is a special blower for the bolt pattern. Also, with my combo, 64 cc heads, im at 10:1 c/r and i need to know how much a blower is going to increase my c/r, if any. As I would rather run it on pump gas
    My combo should produce 425 hp and 523 lb tq. but with a blower id probably be pushing 550 hp with maybe 600 lb tq. you guys think my gm block would handle that much? with the rods, and crank? Is it worth it? this engine will be spinning 5500.
    Any input is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Cory

  2. #2
    bigdude's Avatar
    bigdude is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Three rivers
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 Nova SS 4 speed
    Posts
    372

    You would have to change alot of stuff for a blower. With a 60 over 400 that can run hot sometimes plus a blower that runs hot---I wouldnt.
    www.adoptafriendforlife.org

  3. #3
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Thats what i'm thinking as well, its a pretty spendy investment as well. thanks for the input

  4. #4
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Thanks Denny, that helps a lot. Do you think It would have cooling problems? Being .060 over inall. I suspose Id wanna run a forged crank, rods, and pistons with the blower.

  5. #5
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Thanks for the good info, it helps a lot.

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    Too much compression. Max for a blower on the street is about 8.5:1. Should have forged crank and rods, too.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  7. #7
    nitrowarrior's Avatar
    nitrowarrior is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Mesa
    Posts
    1,385

    Keep the blower small (6-71 maybe). Definitely a cam change designed for your application. Head swap for breathing purposes (a bit more exhaust to evacuate). Siamesed bores on the 400 block will be a strength for you and if you already have adequate cooling, there should be no problems. Remember the camshaft centerlines and the overlap for a blown engine is dramatically different from naturaul aspiration. Crankshafts were known for breaking into two peices with the cast OEM 400 setup, be weary of what you wanna do until you know for sure which it is. And no matter which heads you run, please match the steam holes in the head for a stock block setup. Hope this helps.

  8. #8
    erik erikson's Avatar
    erik erikson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    clive
    Car Year, Make, Model: BLOWN 540 57 CHEVY
    Posts
    2,878

    Quote Originally Posted by facemelter
    Well i have a 400 .060 over right now. cast crank, re-conditioned 5.7 rods with arp bolts, speed pro hyperutectic pistons, vortec iron heads with 1.94 1.50's. runnin a lunati hyrd cam. All balanced. Alright so thats what im working with.
    I'm considering a blower, but im wondering how well it will bolt up to the vortecs, whether there is a special blower for the bolt pattern. Also, with my combo, 64 cc heads, im at 10:1 c/r and i need to know how much a blower is going to increase my c/r, if any. As I would rather run it on pump gas
    My combo should produce 425 hp and 523 lb tq. but with a blower id probably be pushing 550 hp with maybe 600 lb tq. you guys think my gm block would handle that much? with the rods, and crank? Is it worth it? this engine will be spinning 5500.
    Any input is greatly appreciated.
    Thanks, Cory
    A .060 over 400 and you want to put a blower on it?
    First your lower end won't take it and second you would not have much of a chance to hold a head gasket on the engine.
    Then there is the heat issue of the 400.

  9. #9
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Quote Originally Posted by erik erikson
    A .060 over 400 and you want to put a blower on it?
    First your lower end won't take it and second you would not have much of a chance to hold a head gasket on the engine.
    Then there is the heat issue of the 400.
    No i didnt say I for sure want to. The thought went through my mind, and I was considering. I was already pretty sure it wouldnt be a very wise decision. But I wanted input is all I wont be running a blower, I'd have to change to a forged crank, rods, and pistons.
    Last edited by facemelter; 04-04-2007 at 04:29 AM.

  10. #10
    billlsbird is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Pahrump
    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Ford 3 Window Coupe w/ 392 Hemi
    Posts
    916

    .....this really isn't related to your question but a .060 over 400 is 413 cubic inches.... Bill

  11. #11
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Quote Originally Posted by billlsbird
    .....this really isn't related to your question but a .060 over 400 is 413 cubic inches.... Bill
    Thanks Bill, I'm quite aware of that

  12. #12
    facemelter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Mankato
    Posts
    118

    Quote Originally Posted by nitrowarrior
    Keep the blower small (6-71 maybe). Definitely a cam change designed for your application. Head swap for breathing purposes (a bit more exhaust to evacuate). Siamesed bores on the 400 block will be a strength for you and if you already have adequate cooling, there should be no problems. Remember the camshaft centerlines and the overlap for a blown engine is dramatically different from naturaul aspiration. Crankshafts were known for breaking into two peices with the cast OEM 400 setup, be weary of what you wanna do until you know for sure which it is. And no matter which heads you run, please match the steam holes in the head for a stock block setup. Hope this helps.
    yep I sure do have the steam holes drilled. I have iron vortecs for the engine. I dont think I would trust running the blower on the cast crank I have, In which my rotating assembly is now balanced, it would be a nice waste of my 175 if I decided to get another crank, rods, and pistons to match.

  13. #13
    kitz's Avatar
    kitz is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Austin
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Roadster, BBC
    Posts
    962

    Obviously at 10:1 you are not going to tolerate very much boost. An alternative might be a centrifugal charger running about 4-6 psi maximum. Blow through a proper carb and you will get a reasonable cooling effect that might allow the 4-6 psi boost. If you also use an intercooler then the boosted charge will be nice and cool and the higher CR will less likely lead to problems. The bottom end is another story. They put blow through centrifugals on street cars with relatively high CR's commonly.

    I'm considering one for my 502 with 9.6:1 CR. But I am also considering putting some larger heads on it to knock the CR down to 9:1 first.

    Kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink