Thread: Cam Suggestions

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Tell us why you went with .100 longer valves. You may have opened Pandora's Box with that, unless you are willing to spend more money on the valve train to get the geometry correct. Please fill us in. I'm thinking you can stick with a "thumper" cam at about 545-550 lift at a good price still have some fun, and get the "Land Barge" out of the garage and maybe your Mom will start making your favorite dinner again.

I bought the +.100" valves and pushrods because when I was putting all of this together, the company (motorville, renegade racing) said that with this cam profile (the .567"/.567" 242/242 Herbert cam) I needed +.100" valves and pushrods. Something about it being solid roller over .500" lift.

My boss who agreed with them explained it once. I think I'm just gonna try to trade him my solid roller setup for a flat tappet hydraulic setup + a carburetor because he swears by solid roller and has a lot of hydraulic flat tappet stuff laying around from lunati and comp cams and some others.

You would be a lot better off with a hydraulic lifter cam. I run a CompCams Magnum 280 in my 383 and like it just fine. I would not want to go any bigger and drive it in town. The 280 seems just right. Drives nice given it dynoed at 450 hp.

Yea, I'm thinking that the way to go is to trade some parts around so that I get a hydraulic tappet setup into the motor. I'm thinking about a 750CFM carb for this motor?

ok,i just traded my valves, pushrods, springs, cam, and lifters for a pair of fully assembled World Products S/R Torquer heads, a .447" lift 220 duration 350 horse 327 replica" hydraulic flat tappet cam, lifters, pushrods, tall crome valve covers, and an intake to fit these heads.

All in all I think I did well because I traded all of my components to make heads straight up, then traded a 400 dollar cam/lifter setup for a 300 dollar set of heads and a professional products intake manifold.

Now, the only thing I need is a carburator and a pair of headers and this puppy will be ready for the road.

workable.....Which PP manifold?

not sure. Now we're not even sure that it's a professional products. but it is low rise aluminum with bolt pattern for the s/r heads.

Ok, i told him to keep that cam. It's a little weak even for me I think... However, I talked him into throwing in a 750 Holley /w Vacuum secondaries.

So... For 700 dollars worth of solid roller valve train I'm getting S/R heads fully assembled, an aluminum low-rise intake, and a 750 Holly with vacuum secondaries. Also, I'm getting a set of tall chrome valve covers.

That is a old school grind ,you can make better power with a newer cam.
Sounds like a great trade to me....now get a well matched cam and your on the way!!!!!!!!

The only thing is, the holley has to be rebuilt. But hey...a rebuild kit is about 50 bucks I think and our shop has a tank for cleaning carburetors and stuff. The boss said he'd rebuild it for me so I guess it'll be ready to run.

Let's see what deal his supplier is gonna make, He said he told the supplier to keep the cam. What's next? I feel like we're on "Let's Make a Deal".........okay Hopper, keep us informed.

yea I was trying to hustle a hustler. I think we came out pretty even.

End Result:
He gets:
1 set stainless steel 2.02/1.60 Eagle Valves
1 set Eagle Chrome-moly pushrods
1 set comp cams dual-coil roller springs
1 set off brand solid roller lifters
1 Chet Herbert Solid roller cam

I Get:
1 set NEW(as in never been run) World Products S/R Torquer Heads; Assembled
stainless steel 1.94/1.50 valves, renegade stock type springs ready to
bolt on
1 aluminum low rise intake
1 classy-finish Holley 750 CFM Carb with Vacuum Secondaries
1 set tall chrome valve covers
1 set Eagle Chrome-moley pushrods

By making this trade, I'll have to buy a new set of cam and lifters; however, this way I can choose a cam, with the help of the wisdom of CHR, that will suit my needs and my engine.

After some checking around and some research, I think I'm going to invest in Comp Cams 268H Hydraulic Flat tappet cam. It's a pretty potent cam for a stock converter. I really like it.

750 is a bit much for what you could use. I am not going to tell you not to do it though. Everybody needs all the experience in tuning all kinds of carbs and carb sizes. Play with it and get your mojo on. At least the beast will run again and you will gain valuable experience by working with it.

Well, I got all of the parts today. Only thing wrong is that 2 of the pushrods are bent. What happened is this: the two intake bolts over the top of these pushrods were too long when the motor was put together. Simple fix, just put shorter bolts in that won't bend the pushrods. No problems!