Thread: need help guys

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if you read my previouse post huh oh youll see ive been having cooling issues , well i drove the car home from work today and it got hot again, the rad and coolant bottle were both full im about 12 miles from work half way home she got about 230 and by the time i pulled in the drive she was 250, the funny thing is when the cars idling the temp goes down a little but when youre driving it goes back up. is this the characteristics of a leaking head gasket cause thats about were im at ...yanking the heads and putting new gaskets

Before you just start changing parts, might want to do a pressure check on the cooling system and find if and where it is leaking. Most parts stores have the tester, might be able to rent or borrow one....

did the pressure test at work today dave had 16lbs for 20 minutes no sign of leaks anywere i took the cap off the resevoir and its still full took the cap off and cant see coolant then the coolant starts running in the rad with the cap off but wont run in when the caps on

i just put new plus in last nite all the plugs have a oarnge tint to them except number three wich is grayish white ill try to post pics

heres the plugs

Well, the pressure test is good. One plug looks quite lean, might want to richen up a step..

As for the overheating, I don't recall looking at you other post. It takes a good water pump, radiator, shroud, thermostat, and fan to adequately cool an engine....

this engine went to 15 car shows last year with the same exact combo and never went over 180 degees why would one cylinder be that lean and not the rest? i just bought a new rad cap and 160 stat that are in it know , with the over heating and using coolant excesivily

Was the original thermostat a 160 degree one? If it was a higher temp one, say 180 degrees, the 160 one would be opening up to soon and not allowing the rad to cool the coolant properly. Sticky thermostat? or something stuck in it partially blocking it? Clutch fan failed, if you have one?
Can't remember for sure, but I don't think you see much circulation in the rad until the thermostat opens up.
I think in your other post you said you where losing coolant??

Was the motor recently rebuilt?? You could try re-torquing the heads as a last resort.

i went to the 160 this year but i started with the 180 from last year and it overheated dual electric fans same as last year i can see the water flowing when the stat opens
loosing coolant somewere , no external leaks nothing in the oil

If you live in a place that is always warm, you could try to remove the thermostat completly. I would not suggest doing this if you live in an area that gets cold (snow/ice). just my two cents.

I live in Fla, so I can get away with not using a thermostat.

Please don't remove the T-Stat. That engine needs it at about 192 to run right. The cars form the factory run as high as 205 and they didn't like the cooling fan to come on until 210-215 (scarey huh). I wouldn't be adverse to you richening it up a "SLIGHT" touch like dave recommended, but I think I am seeing oxidation on those plugs from moisture. RePressurize the system with the plugs out. Keep it at 16lb for a half an hour or more then check to see if the cylinders contain or will push out coolant when you turn it over by hand. If no moisture, then you have another issue. By the way, is the oil still clean and normal looking?

oils still clean and normal looking i took the stat out and it still got into the danger zone/

Sounds like it's time to get to work. Sounds like head gaskets. If and when you pull the heads, have the machine shop really check them thoroughly.

i was afraid you would say that

Sorry bud....I don't like tearing them down either until it's absolutely necessary.